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Tcll32p60u blowing fuse when you switch on, what are the possible cause

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Shorted diodes, shorted main power switching regulator device, shorted other capacitors, like small ceramic ones. So many causes can be there. You must check each component to locate which one is faulty. Sometimes, more than one component can be faulty.

Posted on Oct 17, 2013

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Fuse blows when put in reverse


Possibly an internal failure of the reverse switch. The blown fuse is for both the reverse and the turn signal lights. The fix is replacement of the reverse switch.

Sep 04, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

2 Answers

Why my Daewoo microwave oven blows the fuse only when the door gets closed while when it startre with the door opened the bulb is lit and so is the control board until the door is closed then it blows


Hi. The fact that the fuse blows when the door is closed is quite logical. There are safetyswitches preventing the oven to start with an open door. As to the fuse blowing, There are 3 possibilities: the High voltage trafo is defective, the voltage doubler diode or the capacitor are defective. You must be VERY CAREFULL when working on these parts: the voltages are LETHAL.

Aug 25, 2014 | Daewoo Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Blown fuse pcm


It is possible that the fuel relay is faulty and causing excessive current through the pcm fuse which is blowing because of the excessive current draw to the relay.

Mar 28, 2014 | 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

1 Answer

Tail Lights


You have the feed wire (HOT WIRE) feeding to a ground, causing fuse to blow. Have wires checked from brake switch to tail lights. Also, possible bad brake switch shorting out. Hope this helps.

Nov 12, 2013 | 1992 Chrysler New Yorker

1 Answer

Blowing brake light fuse


you might want in this case try a higher rating fuse, example is if the fuse is 15 amp rase it to a 25 amp fuse,try not to go over 40 amp if possible,if that still blows it is more than likley a shorted switch or a bad relay causing the overload or short. after the fuse change an still a problem chech the relay for the break lights next,these are located in the engine compartment and on some models in the trunk,good luck,Gary

Oct 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a Maytag Atlantis MAV 7600CGW that keeps blowing the 10A fuse prior to the switch mechanism. This has happened 6 times in the last 12 months. Every time it is the 1st load after after a heavy load...


HI,
I have found the possible cause to your fuse problem, I would suggest replacing your lid switch to the unit, this can cause you fuse to blow. Item #3 below is the switch Part# is 22003804, I and hopeful this will correct the problem for you. Is part should con with the Item #7 in the picture also, replace them both, made even be a different color. I think gray is the color right now.
I hope this helps kidlmo_5.gif

Jul 28, 2011 | Maytag MAV7600 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I put a fuse in the parking light and it blow it win i tarn on parkinglight. what do i do i cheek the light and there good.


you will need to check the sockets and wires around the sockets to see if they are causing a short that is blowing the fuse.there is also a possibility that the headlight switch is causing the problem only on the parking side of the switch.

Jun 22, 2011 | Chrysler Fifth Avenue Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Panasonic NNA554W blows 10a fuse when microwave comes on


Possibly the interlock monitor switch is bad or out of adjustment. This switch is designed to create a short circuit across the power line (and then blow the fuse) if you attempt to defeat the door interlock and operate the oven with the door open. A shorted capacitor or diode could also cause the fuse to blow. Because of lethal voltages inside and the possibility of microwave leakage if repairs aren't done correctly, you are best off leaving microwave service to professionals.

May 15, 2009 | Panasonic NN-SN657SMicrowave Oven

1 Answer

Subwoofer blows the internal fuse when receiver is turned on


possible solution - this can be caused by a fault in the receiver unit. the sub has a triac 'high side switch' circuit that can cause the fuse to blow if it doesn't get a good switching signal e.g. if the receiver power supply is not running at the full voltage. check the plug pack wire for damage, check the 12v input area on the receiver board for dry joints, particularly the power input socket. hope this helps.-pj

Dec 11, 2008 | Bose Acoustimass 16 Speaker

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