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Handbook indesit w1xl123

Washing machine Indesit W1X 123 Not heating up, have changed element and thermostat, any suggestions as to what elseI can try, or is it cheaper to buy new machine. Thanks Jane

Posted by Anonymous on

5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

barkencoa
  • 3463 Answers

SOURCE: change grip/handle on a indesit washing machine w105tx

Undo any screw that you can see on the inside of the door frame, and then prize the two halves apart,
This should give you access to the door handle assy.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

barkencoa
  • 3463 Answers

SOURCE: indesit widl1625 runs a dry but its not heating

It would be checking to see if the heater is o/k before deciding whether to buy a new one.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 343 Answers

SOURCE: Changine a heating element on a washing machine Indesit WIA 101

Sam. The small nut and bolt which protrudes between the element ends should be loosened but not taken off. Press on the bolt, which will relax the compression on the rubber sealing block. This should allow you to extract the element. Once you have done this it will become clear..

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: indesit washing macine displaying error code F-11

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

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Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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NTC fault - check Thermistor and module connections.
The NTC is the thermistor, which is a modern-day thermostat. It’s inserted into a tube in the heating element and is filled with heat sensitive crystals that change their electrical resistance according to their temperature. By knowing what electrical resistance the crystals have at given temperatures they can tell the water temperature.
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If the water does not get hot, I assume the machine does not complete its programme? Since you have changed the stat, AND checked the element I think the timer may be faulty.
OR has a wire burned off in the heater circuit somewhere? You can test for a 240 volt supply at the two ends of the heat element with a meter, or even a 240 volt bulb.
!!BE CAREFUL!!  !!OF 240 VOLTS !!

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                         !! BE CAREFUL OF 240VOLTS!!

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