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I have a complete garage (sheetrock & wiring already installed). im trying to install a garage door opener. there are 3 wires on the garage ceiling (1 for the wall control, 2 for the photoeyes). but just looking at the wires, I cant determine which wire is connected to the photoeye or wall sensor. I need to know in order to put them in the correct position in the motor/control station. please advise...

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Get a continuity tester at Home depot. First, make sure all the conductor wires are separated from each other. Strip back a 1/2" insulation on each conductor (both ends).
Start with the wires at the wall control wire location. Twist the stripped
bare wires together. Now go on the ladder where the 3 cables are
and "ring" out that conductor with the continuity tester. Once that cable is found, tag the wire identifying it as the controller.

Posted on Jan 13, 2014

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first check out the sw. use a volt meter measure between all of the lines. i.e black & red, black & green tec.... and tun the switch to each position.
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1). connected the hot "line in", to one line from each of the buld.
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well lets see on one side you should have two brass screws that would be to interupt your lead to the fixture then you either have a brass and silver screws on the other side or you have black and white wires the black or brass is always hot the silver or white is neutral does that answer your question if not hit me back with a description of what your switch looks like

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remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

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SOURCE: Replacing a pull chain 3-way ceiling fan light switch

OK .. the thick black and white are the power for the fan , are there also white wires on the lamp sockets ..??
The thick black wire should connect to the black wire on the switch.
The small black wires connect to the red and blue wire on the switch .. two small black wires each .. that should give you a position for 2 lights , and 4 lights, on the step switch .. but there should be white wires from the lamp sockets connected to the thick white from the fan .

please respond .

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Posted on May 25, 2010

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SOURCE: I have a liftmaster formula 1 garage opener. My

Hello. The line from each sensor runs to the control panel on the motor. If you climb up and take a look at the rear of the motor you will see the other end of each wire. J.

Posted on May 27, 2010

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Raccoon ate ate my sensor wires. Can I override them so I can use my remotes?


The safest thing to do is fix them. It really isn't hard, I have done it myself. The wires are small and you can buy move at hardware store or radio shack. When you get them repaired, spray them with ammonia.. raccoons do not like that. This is from the Internet: Low-Voltage Circuits 1 Raise the garage door using the control button on the garage wall or the remote control unit from a vehicle. Inspect each sensor to make sure the green or red power-indicator lights are illuminated. Proceed to the next step if one or both lights are not illuminated.
2 Stand a stepladder at the area of the garage door opener unit. Unplug the power cord from the outlet at the ceiling. Remove the cover at the back of the unit. Identify the connection terminals where the ends of the low-voltage senor wires attach. Reattach a loose wire to the appropriate terminal. Tighten the terminal screw with a small screwdriver. Plug in the power cord and observe the lights on the sensors. If both lights are not illuminated, proceed to the next step.
3 Inspect the double-strand insulated low-voltage wires from each sensor to the back of the garage door opener. Use the stepladder to inspect the wires near the upper part of a wall and at the ceiling. If no damage is noted, one or both sensors must be replaced. Proceed to the following steps if any wires are bare, burned or broken in one or more places.
4 Loosen the terminal screws that connect the faulty wires at the back of the overhead unit. Start at the ceiling and pull the wires out of the insulated fasteners at the ceiling, walls and along the side of the door opening to the sensor. Disconnect the ends of the wires from the terminals on the sensor.
5 Determine the length of a replacement wire using the faulty wire. Cut a piece of new double-strand insulated low-voltage wire to length with electrical pliers. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation off the both strands at one end. Attach the ends to the appropriate terminals on the sensor.
6 Start just above the sensor. Feed the opposite end of the wire through the fasteners at the side of the door, the wall and the ceiling. Strip the ends of the wires as before. Connect the wires to the appropriate terminals and tighten the screws. Plug in the power cord to the opener unit.

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Use laser level to find level line around room.
Figure out how you are going to change ceiling lights as part of any plan.

1) Put furring strips across room 16" on center.
Use shims or spacers under furring strip at each nailing point to keep level.
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2) Install suspended ceiling grid.
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3) Float smooth, and prime ceiling.
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Im installing a hunter remote control receiver in the ceiling mount. I have a red, black, white and ground wire from the ceiling. Which wire on the reciever do I connect the red wire to?


The red wire in the ceiling is probably used in a shared neutral circuit and not needed for the fan. If it's not capped off already, it should be.

Just use black, white and ground from the ceiling.

Charlie

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My house was prewired for a garage door opener well on the wall they brought the wire through and just tied a knot in it ,now each side of the garage door it has wires for the sensors so far so good right...


Usually the installers will make a not at the end of the wires so that the dry wallers wont dry wall over the wires (it hapens all the time with dry wallers).I would strip off bolth wires by the garage doors.Inside the wire their will be either four little wires or two little wires strip them as well.On one garage door twist two of the wires together so that the wires contact each other.On the other garage door where the other wire comes out of the wall strip the wires (if you have four wires coming out of it you will have to use a multi meter and connect the ends of the probes of the multi meter to the same two collers of wire that you twisted together on the other door.If you have only two wires coming out of it then do the same thing you just wont have to worry about which two collers you are using.I.e. I twist red and black together on one door then I connect my probes to the red and black on the other door.Using the resistance option or the tone option on the multi meter you should be able to tell if this is a single line like I think it is.If it is a single line then the meter (if on the resistance option will read anything other then o.l.).O.l. standing for open line. (If on the tone option then you will hear a tone).If this is one line then you will just have to go to the hole in the ceiling and cut the wire in half using daulfins or barell conectors and a little wire you should be able to extend you wires.(I asume on the door opener their are two different terminals to connect two different doors).DONT pull on the wires.This will only make things worse.per state law the installers have to staple their wires to the studs and pulling on these wires can lead to them breaking off in the walls or them shorting out.It is comon for a low voltage electrican to only use one wire when installing two doors close together they just forgot to leave a little extra wire in the hole in the ceiling and then cut the one wire into two sepret wires in that same hole.

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SOUNDS LIKE YOU DAMAGED A WIRE. TRY RUNNING TEST WIRES TO BYPASS THE ONES YOU COVERED UP.
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