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The neck of my guitar is not straight but i alreadyadjusted the trusrod

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Edgar,
How are you determining that the neck is not straight? If you are thinking the neck is not straight because the strings are at different heights along the neck, the problem may be neck tilt or saddle and/or bridge height. You can raise or lower the bridge system or string saddles to add or subtract string height along the neck. In addition, neck tilt (particularly easy to adjust on bolt-on necks) refers to the angle that the guitar neck exits the neck pocket on the guitar body. This also effects string height.
Conversly, if you see a distict bow or bend in the neck when you look down the top edge of the neck, the truss rod may indeed be involved. Generally, most players like a little bit of "relief" in the neck. That is to say, a little bit of a concave bow. I prefer a relatively straight neck with very little relief. Just preference.
However, you mentioned you already adjusted the truss rod. Make sure the truss rod is functional. If you loosen the bolt or hex on the truss rod and the concave bow on the neck gets more pronounced, it is likely that you truss rod is ok. If you make adjustments on the bolt and there is little or no change on the neck relief, it is possible that your truss rod is not functioning or is broken. It is very possible to break a truss rod by over tightening but it would take some real effort to do. Still, it is possible.
Check out those points and see if it helps.
Confirm truss rod is working.
Check bridge height and saddle height.
See if adjusting neck tilt is possible on your model guitar.
Good luck.

Posted on Dec 03, 2013

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To lower the action on an acoustic guitar:

Usually just the saddle needs reducing.

1. Remove strings (or you may be able to just loosen them). Remove saddle, sand down the bottom a little at a time. Restring and check action.

The action can be set as low as poss without any fret buzzing or note choking on all strings and on all frets.

2. Repeat 1

If the action remains too high then there are other techniques.

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How to adjust truss rod on yamaha f335 guitar


Taken from http://www.learnguitarsetups.com


There are a few golden rules when adjusting your truss rod. First, only use the rod to keep your neck as straight as it needs to be...do not use it to adjust your action! Second, only use the proper tools. If you do not know what the proper tool is, check with the manufacturer. Truss rod nuts are easy to strip, and once they're stripped, they are expensive to fix! Finally, do not force anything; an eighth of a turn can make a drastic change. Remember, if the truss rod feels tight or doesn't seem to be doing anything, take it to a professional.

  1. Start by sitting with the guitar in the playing position.
  2. Tune it to pitch if it is not already.
  3. Capo the first fret. If you do not own a capo, you can use your fretting hand.
  4. Next, fret the bass string with your picking hand up near where the neck joins the body. This is typically around the 14th fret, but it may be higher up with some electric guitars. In our example, we'll be using the 20th fret.
  5. Use the string as a straightedge held against the neck which will either bow away, or against the string. This is how you determine the amount of relief in the neck. You can also use a steel ruler placed along the length of the neck, in the same manor.
  6. In our example, the approximate half way point between the 20th fret and the 1st, will be the 7th fret where we will observe the distance between the top of that fret and the bottom of the string (or ruler), as pictured. Notice the gap. Hint: Half way down the neck is often between the 7th-9th frets.
  7. If you have a gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string, you likely have a bowed neck. If there is no gap, it is likely either dead straight or back-bowed.

HOW MUCH TO ADJUSTThe bigger the gap, the more relief is in the neck. Normally, we want just a small amount of relief in the neck for optimal playing, about the same as the thickness of a business card or less.

If there is a gap, tighten the truss rod clockwise until you have something closer to what we're after. Slide a business card in between the top of fret and bottom of the string (or ruler). Make sure you are placing the card parallel with the string or ruler. If there is no gap, you may be either dead straight or back bowed, so you will need to loosen the truss rod counter-clockwise to get the results we are after. Hint: If the strings are buzzing in the first few frets and open strings, it is often a clear indication of a back bow.

Remember, do not force anything to get the results you are after. If it is hard to adjust or spins freely you may need professional assistance.

The final step in setting your relief is to test it out! If it feels better, you're done! But take note, straightening the neck may actually make your guitar play worse! Consequently, when the truss rod is tightened, the height of the strings are lowered, which can create string buzz if your guitar isn't setup properly to start. Likewise, it can make a poor fret condition more noticeable. So, if your guitar plays worse after adjusting the neck, it is either too straight for your playing style, or it is a sign that more work is needed. Thankfully, you can easily reverse the changes you've just made if required.



For pictures and further info, visit www.learnguitarsetups.com

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Since the neck needs to be quite strong as the strings are tightened and must not in any way bend or be soft-- as the TUNING WILL KEEP ON CHANGING- the neck must be wedged back and then maybe the use of a counter steel reinforcement might be needed.
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There are a few different ways to do this, and unfortunately if you have not done this kind of work before you could end up damaging the guitar more than fixing it.
A few things to look for:
Sight down the neck from the top of the guitar looking down along the edges. If you see a concave (banana shaped) bow in the neck, it needs adjustment. Almost all guitars including yours have a neck adjustment rod that can alleviate some of the bow. If however the neck is convex ( higher in the middle) the neck would need adjustment too. You want a very slight bow in the neck to allow for weather changes as wood expands and contracts with the weather.
Other adjustments are down on the bridge. There are usually very small allen or hex key adjustments for each string to raise and lower the action (height) of the string. Again, any adjustments here can also affect the tuning of the string up and down the neck (intonation). The guitar may not end up being tuned at one place one the neck while in tune on another.
I would highly recommend taking this to a music store with a qualified person to adjust it. Many times the action can be lowered and the string height adjusted for better playing ability. You can inform the technician now what you see and what you want done. Also let them know if you have a heavy or light touch on the strings as this can make a difference when they adjust it too. At the same time a lot of them also restring your guitar for you and you may request a lighter gauge of string allowing for better play too. Good luck.

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Sometimes the truss rod (nut you are referring to) will do the trick. The truss rod runs under the fingerboard and allows you to give the neck relief or tension. Some truss rods are dual action but I'm guessing yours is designed simply to give basic relief of the neck. I would make sure the truss rod is adjusted properly before sanding down the saddle. If you sight down the neck you should be able to see the relief in the neck - just use the string as your straight-edge. Most guitars need a slight amount of relief but higher-end guitars can be almost straight (better fretwork.) Once the neck has been adjusted correctly you can move forward with the setup.

Make sure the nut is also the proper height. If the nut is too low (1mm height between bottom of string and first fret) you should get it replaced by someone capable of doing such a thing. If the nut height is okay I would suggest moving forward cautiously by sanding the bottom of the saddle. Make sure this is done patiently and carefully as it can drastically change the sound and playability of the guitar. Hardly any material needs to be taken off to lower the action just a little. Error on the side of not-enough than too much. Make sure the bottom of the saddle remains flat! If the bottom isn't flat the guitar can sound horrible and if there is an undersaddle pickup it might not pick up evenly. The easiest way to do so is to tape some sandpaper rough side up on a flat surface (just don't pick something like mom's heirloom or something important in case it gets scratched.

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