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If this only happens on letter-size I'd say you have a problem with the transfer roller that transfers the entire toner dust onto the paper, instead of just transfering the text. In this case, you can either try to de-magnetize it with a built-in sliding demagnetizer, or if there isn't such a plastic nob that you can slide along the rollers, then you can use some aluminum foil and wrap the rollers and then connect the foil onto a metal part of the printer, so it can drain the excess static electricity that's accumulated. If this doesn't help, you'll probably need to replace the imaging assembly, but you'll have to take the printer to a repair shop for this.
It may be the fuser, but if it is really it, then you should be able to notice some spots/lines that are there all the time, no matter what you print. I'd go for a magnetized corona, that fails to demagnetize the transfer roller. Open up the printer, get to the print assembly and try demagnetizing the transfer corona (there should be a plastic bezel that slides along the rollers), or if nothing else then get some aluminum foil wrap it alongside the roller and touch the foil onto a metal part of the printer, to get it to ground the electric potential buildup. Or it could also be the brushes that scrub the transfer roller clean from the
residue toner. See if the excess toner tank is full. If it is full then
it's the corona. If it's not full and you can see toner dust all over
the printer then it's the brushes that fail to scrub off the toner in
time. Either case, you may be looking at a new print assembly purchase real soon.
The problem is most likely a damaged spring end cap. As you face the screen from the front, this is the cap that covers the right end of the cylinder that encloses the screen material. The cap is held in place by 3 Phillips head screws. If you remove the spring end cap, you will see a slot in it that is designed to hold the spring assembly stationary as you pull down on the screen. If this slot is damaged, then the internal spring inside the roller will lose tension. The fix is to pull out the screen & roller assembly, roll it back up manually, then replace the spring end cap with a new one. (I believe the part # from Quartet Apollo is K0329). The cap at the other end has a cup receiver designed to accept the pin end that is on the left side of the cylinder that houses the screen material. The tricky part is fitting the pin end back into the pin end end cap. It is easier with 2 people. If you fashion a short hook out of a coat hanger. you can use it to lift the pin end into the pin end cap. There are part #'s and exploded diagrams on the Pegasus part sales website: http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl?c=440001. The site is down now for maintenence, but it should be back up soon. HTH
I just fought this same battle and have emerged victorious! The roller cam that the black rubber belt fits around is kind of "C" shaped in cross-section. The roller has left and right hinge-pins on one end of the "C" and snaps on the other. Looking at either side of the casing that the roller mounts in, you will see the end of the hinge-pin and a typical sqeeze clip like those often found on bigger laser printer rollers. I'm sure this was designed so that you should be able to sqeeze the left and right clips simultaneously which should release the snap end of the "C" and allow it to hinge out away from the casing. Unfortunately, it appears that the designer's good intentions were never tested. If your roller is like mine, it does not freely release by just sqeezing the clips. It was a bit awkward but while squeezing one of the clips, I used the tip of a small screw driver to pry loose the snap on that side. The trick is to hold that snap out away from it's seated position while you perform the same procedure on the other side. With both sides pryed away from their seated position you should be able to hinge the roller with black rubber belt away from it's case and remove it. In lieu of buying a replacement belt I simply rotated the existing one to expose the unused part and snapped it back in place. Voila!
Replacing a Belt on an Upright vacuum can vary from model to model, but it is basically going to be the same for most upright models.
First you will need to access the belt. Most upright vacuums this is done by turning the machine upside down, and most you'll need to remove the bottom plate by unscrewing (usually 4) screws that hold the plate on. You should see screws that are closest to the actual roller brush, simply remove these screws, and take the bottom plate off. If the machine is a Eureka, or Kenmore, the top agitator housing will be removed from the top of the vacuum, not the bottom.
Once you have removed the bottom plate, or top agitator housing, you should be able to see the belt (or broken belt) along with the roller brush. Remove the broken belt. Make sure that you purchase the correct belt by taking the make, and the model number (located on the back or bottom of the machine). Please note that a broken belt may be 4-5 inches longer then a new belt, as they stretch a lot before they finally break.
Once you have the new belt, you will need to remove the roller brush. Pay attention to how the roller brush fits into the agitator housing, usually there will be fittings on the end of the roller that have to be put in a specific place, or in a certain way to work right. After the roller brush is taken out of the machine, you will need to wrap one end of the belt around a metal pulley on the opposite side of the roller brush. Most pulleys are located where the main housing (handle part) of the vacuum meet the the agitator (floor part) part of the machine. Anyways, wrap one end of the belt around the pulley, and then put the roller brush through the other end of the belt. This is where you'll need to put some elbow grease into it. You'll need to stretch the roller brush and belt so that the brush and belt are stretched back to the place where you took the roller brush out of the vacuum.
Once you have replaced the roller brush with a new belt around it, pull the belt a few times to make sure that the brush spins while you are pulling it, to ensure that the belt is not pinched, and is spinning freely.
I hope this helps. Here's a video showing how to replace the belt on a Hoover Windtunnel Self Propelled model; Feel free to email me if you'd like to send me the model number of your vacuum, this way I can be a little more specific, and give you part numbers. I have all belts for all vacuums in stock. Email; firstname.lastname@example.org. 1-866-468-2288. You may also chat with me by going to our website, www.govacuum.com, and clicking in the top right part of the page. Thanks!
just wrap the aluminium foil (kithchen foil for food wrap) around the pin and it should be tight enough to make contact and grip, as its aluminium metal it will allow the electricity to pass on... and your device gets charged.. only point is if you keep on removing the plug and re connections... if just keep it always connected , this trick should solve your issue.. other wise try to glue the alumininum foil to it self by gluing at overlapping one end on the other end. make sure the foil doesnt go in front( ahead of the charging pin tip, other wise if it may enter inside the tip and both + ve and -ve poles get connected , which may spoil the devices).. hope it solves your problem