Question about Grizzly Big Bear Atv Maintenance Free Battery

1 Answer

No fire to coil changed stator checked ac voltage with meter on 3 white and brown and green wires voltage to rectifier no power on red or white wire to cdi,changed cdi box still no voltage on coil

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

    Corporal:

    An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 43 Answers

Do you have a teather switch ? I would suggest start by checking the resistance of the on off switch . Then procede to the cdi relay. If you do not know how to test such items let me know and I will break it down step by step.

Posted on Oct 17, 2013

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Need a wiring diagram on suzuki raiderj 110. Please. Tnx.


Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT

Dec 27, 2015 | 2006 Suzuki Stratosphere

1 Answer

Need wire color diagram


Black = AC hot
Red = switched AC hot
Yellow = AC hot from a another source - another control panel as an example.
White = neutral
red w/white tracer = switched neutral
Green or green w/ yellow tracer = ground/earth ground
blue = DC voltage, ie, 12vdc, 24vdc
white w/blue tracer = dc common
Brown = AC 3 pahse - phase A
Orange = AC 3 pahse - phase B
Yellow = AC 3 Phase - phase C
shileds: think of current loops
2 cond
clear or red = +
black = -(neg)
3 cond
red = power (24vdc typically for transducers)
clear = + (signal output)
black = - (signal common)
Hope this helps, oh, and any panel I have design and wired this way is easily understaood by 99% of all service and electrical people I have worked with.

Apr 15, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My robin subaru 11hp gen just stopped producing elect


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Robin 11 Hp I am guessing here... RGV6100 (Model?)

Things to look for:
1. Open the control panel and inspect the capacitors and the YELLOW wires from the capacitors going to the stator. Look for signs of wax leakage from the long silver 28 MFD capacitors. You would see it in the bottom of the control panel enclosure. Probe the capacitors with a meter on a resistance (ohms) scale of R X 10,000. You should see a huge jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity. Reverse the test leads looking for the same indication.

2. Inspect for any loose connections from the control panel to the stator. Look for dark or hot connections. Repair as needed.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Stator checks

* STATOR

(1) Measure the insulation resistance between

BLUE lead and the core.

(2) Measure the insulation resistance between

WHITE lead and the core.

(3) Measure the insulation resistance between

YELLOW lead and the core.

(4) Measure the insulation resistance between
BROWN lead and the core.

AC Winding
White / Red = 0.2 Ohm
Black / Blue = 0.25 Ohm

Condensor Winding
Yellow / Yellow = 0.58 Ohm


* ROTOR

Measure the insulation across one of the soldered
terminals of the rotor and the core

Then test across the 2 soldered terminals of the rotor.

Resistance = 1.75 Ohm

NOTE 1 :

Because a diode is soldered to the coil ends at

the terminals, resistance may be measured only

when tester probes touche the terminals in one

combination of polarity. Therefore, if no resistance
reading appears, try checking in reverse polarity.


Diode rectifier test (Lovated between the 2 capacitors)

Orange wire should read to all of the other terminals.
Both Brown wires should read to the Brown White wire (Note polarity)

Those are pretty much the checks that you can do and should reveal where the problem lies.

I think you may have a burned wire / terminal somewhere inside the control panel.
Usually when they just stop working the failures are
1. The rotor (Bad and horribly expensive news)
2. Capacitor wires (Yellow) open
3. Stator wires damaged.
The stators on these units do not usually fail.

All manuals for this unit can be found here (Owner's / parts / Service)
http://www.robinamerica.com/productsupport.aspx?pid=28

If the link doesn't work use:
http://www.robinamerica.com Choose Power products and then customer support. Manuals.

This should give you something to work with. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Aug 31, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I HAVE A STOCK 2008 700 GRIZZLY, IT WONT CHARGE. i HAVE THE FACTORY MANUEL. I KNOW ITS EITHER THE REGULATOR, OR THE STATOR. ANY HELP


Find the Regulator & unplug. Connect a AC volt meter to the 3 white wires at the connector that is unplugged from the reg. connecting the 2 red & black meter leads to ANY 2 white wires at the plug (colors don't matter with AC. Run the bike & rev up. You should have starting at about 30 volts ac Up to about 90 volts ac reved if the Stator is good. Now move the 2 meter leads to 2 more white connections & check again. Now you have one more pair of white connections to check. Should have the same 90 volts on any of the 3 pairs of whites (3 phases). If they are low, The startor inside the cover is burnt--Replace it. If good, Then the Regulator/Rectifier Unit that rectifies ac to dc & then regulates the output at 14 ~ 14.5 volts DC on the red & ground (Green or black or housing ground) to go to the battery is the only other part that is for charging. You can't test a regulator other than to see if you have 90 v AC going into it & the plugged in it should be showing 14 Volts DC at the battery terminals , Not just 12 volts. Make shure you have a fully charged GOOD battery before tests or the readings will all be off.

Jun 03, 2011 | Yamaha XS 650 F Motorcycles

2 Answers

1982 Yamaha XJ 550, the battery will not take a charge. New battery, checked all connections, ran all the tests (stator, brushes, and alternator). Replaced the voltage regulator/recifier. Not sure what is...


It is corrected properly, right? + to the wiring harness and - to ground ... right? Are you certain about the rectifier? Is the battery charged at this time?

You know a alternator cannot make power unless you first put power into it ... right? Alternators (unlike most generators) are not self exciting. If your battery is weak or "dead", the alternator cannot make electricity to charge the battery. I don't know what the rating of your alternator is. Your battery should be fully charged before you do any more tests. If you have a 1 amp charger, allow at least 10 hours for a full charge. Don't cook your battery with a big, powerful, fast charging automotive battery charger.

Good luck with your repair ... I hope you find this response helpful.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

May 02, 2011 | Yamaha XJ 650 Motorcycles

2 Answers

1977 dt 175 e and i can't get it to fire i put a new coil and still no spark


My old 73 175 had points, I don't know if yours does. There is also the stator/ magneto. Try disconnecting the kill switch or unplug the key cylinder. There is a more detailed check in the manual. I can't find my old 175 manual but ttr125 says 1) check plug for spark- clean or replace. 2) check entire ignition system for connection. 3) check ignition stop switch. 4) check coil. a- primary coil, b- secondary coil. 5)check cdi coil. a-pickup coil. b- charging coil. Since you have replaced the coil I will only give specs for the cdi check. The picture shows a plug under the tank disconnected. It has four wires brn grn red and wht. To check pick up coil resistance set ohm meter to x 100. attach the plus lead to red and neg. lead to white. It seems to have a short wire in each jaw of the alligator clips of ohmmeter that is pushed into the disconnected plug that contacts appropriate wire color. Reading should be 248 to 372 ohm at 20 degrees C (68 degrees F). Charge coil test places the plus lead of ohmmeter to the brown wire and neg. lead to the green wire of the open plug. Meter at x 100. Reading should be 688 to 1032 ohm at 20degrees C. Of course while doing step 2 check for good grounds and tight connection at plug cap and use a new plug. Good luck.

Apr 06, 2011 | Yamaha DT 360 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Rm125 1999 no spark


what comes out of CDI box? if you have it going in it is rectified and more will come out. If not change CDI

Feb 25, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

System is only charging at 13.8v max instead of 14.2~14.8v, There is some corrosion inside the wires and many of the wire plugs have corrosion. Would this bit of corrosion inside the wires have enough...


Ok, the charging system works like this:

The voltage Regulator/Rectifier unit takes battery power and sends it to the alternator rotor via the brushes in the cap. The brushes are carbon based, and spring loaded and press against the face of the rotor, such that they are compressed when the alternator cover is tightened. If the brushes are worn away or if the commutator rings (concentric copper circles on the rotor) are dirty, or if there is damage to the wires or if the Regulator half of the R/R unit is defective or if there is a problem with the positive wire between the battery and the R/R, then no power gets to the field coils in the rotor.

Normally, when everything is working properly, a voltage is applied to those field coils, energising them into electromagnets. The strength of the
magnetic field varies in direct proportion to the voltage applied by the
Regulator half of the R/R unit.

When the battery voltage drops a bit, the R/R unit sends more power to the field coils, making the magnetic field stronger.

The rotor spins inside the stator coils. There are 3 separate loops wound
around each other in the stator, and each loop is tapped with a white wire
that leads off to the R/R unit. The spinning magnetic field of the rotor
induces a current in the stator windings. The stronger the magnetic field,
the greater the induced current (the rotational speed of the rotor also
influences the output strength). The 3 loops interact, such that each acts as the ground circuit for the other two in turn, producing a 3-phase
alternating current, 120 degrees apart.

Each of the 3 white wires leads to a pair of diodes inside the Rectifier
half of the R/R unit. There are two connectors along this path -- one is
behind the battery box, as previously described. The other is near the R/R
unit and includes the Red wire to the battery. Any corrosion on any of these high-current carrying wires will impede the current flow, and often heat the connector to the point of melting the plastic.

Diodes are like electrical check valves -- they only allow current to flow
in one direction. In this way, the 3 AC current sources are converted to DC and merged. From there, the resulting current is passed to the battery via the red wire.

So, when everything is working properly, the battery sits at around 12.5 to
13v with the engine off. Turning on the key drops that slightly because of
the draw caused by lights, etc. Hitting the start button drops that by a
couple of volts as the starter draws massive current. Once the engine
starts, the Alternator sends current down each of the 3 white wires, and the voltage picks up to about 14.5 volts at around 2,000 rpm.

One of those white wires is tapped by the headlight relay and the computer. When the alternator starts producing power, the voltage on that white wire latches the relay and tells the computer to start it's check cycle.

Because the white wires are isolated by the diodes in the R/R unit, no
outside voltage (from the battery or a charger or another vehicle used to
boost the system) can fool the relay or the computer. The only way to
trigger them is for the alternator to produce AC power on that white wire.

After checking the condition of the connectors and wiring (unplug the R/R
and meter the whole thing, wire by wire, back at the alternator stator), you could (after charging the battery) start the bike and back-probe (ie insert one of the probes in the back of the connector, such that it contacts the metal conductor inside) each of the 3 white wires with a voltmeter set to 50v AC.

If the voltage one is significantly lower than the others, then you likely have a problem with the stator or the R/R. Follow the diagnostics in the manual to rule out the R/R. If you have no (or little) voltage on all, then I'd suspect the brushes, feild coil windings or wires between the R/R and the brushes. (assuming the regulator passed muster).

Oct 17, 2009 | 1986 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim

1 Answer

Wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt


your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

Jul 28, 2009 | 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

1 Answer

2000 yamaha warrior atv will not run


do you have good air intake like new airfilter and good fuel flow

Mar 12, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 450 F

Not finding what you are looking for?
Grizzly Big Bear Atv Maintenance Free Battery Logo

Related Topics:

171 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Yamaha Vehicle Parts & Accessories Experts

Coss

Level 3 Expert

1056 Answers

Andrew Taylor
Andrew Taylor

Level 3 Expert

14873 Answers

ray012965

Level 2 Expert

402 Answers

Are you a Yamaha Vehicle Part and Accessory Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...