Question about Magic Chef CAV2000AWW Top Load Washer

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Water comes Water is leaking out of the bottom of the water during the fill and during agitation. Hoses all seem to be okay.

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  • 106 Answers

Check the water pump.

Posted on Oct 17, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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IFIXALL
  • 868 Answers

SOURCE: Magic Chef washer 15 years old, fills slow no hot water

Pull the hot /cold hoses off and clean out the 2 screens in the valve.Put the hoses back on and re try washer .Problem solved?If still no hot water ,replace your water valve. Please Rate This !!!!

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: machine doesnt agitate

hi there,
If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:


* If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt.
To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it
doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn,
replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


* If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin
and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the
switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside
the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top
or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


* The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small,
relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the
motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


* A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or
badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing
machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


* The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper
spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the
clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance
repair technician.


* The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation
the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to
burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace
the entire motor.


* The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a
transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the
unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem,
you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


* The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub
to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during
the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch
prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.



* Is there hot water coming through the proper hose? If not, check to see if the screen inside the
water-inlet valve is clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the
fill hoses are attached to.) If it's clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so,
completely replace it.






Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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The AMANA washer has an outer tub and a water pump. Please check these to make sure you can see where the leak is coming from and replace. Also, if your machine has a dispensing system, check all hoses for THAT system. If upon fill up the out tyub HOLDS WATER and DOES NOT Leak, then the outer tub is okay. Carefullky look at the water pump on drain.

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Eaton Viking Duo Wash is Leaking


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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Mar 28, 2009 | Washing Machines

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Agitator will not agitate. Also water trickles in instead of flowing in like a tap turned on. Also water leaking under from pipe that goes into plastic component - looking from back of machine bottom...


  • the agitator has a set screw in the side of it about half way down. this may have rusted out or fallen out.
  • the transmissions may be failing (unlikely)
  • the water inlet valves (where you connect the hoses to the washer) have screens in them, they might be clogged causing the water to slowly drip in.
  • the water leak is most likely caused by a rusted clamp loosing its pressure on the hose.
  • the plastic component is the water pump
  • it might be time for a new washer 

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Open up the top of the machine after disconnecting the mains. Check the pipes coming from the inlet valve to the dispenser box. One of these must hv come off. Refix carefully.

And don't forget to rate me pl..............

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Possible that you would have a tub seal leak if it is only noticable during spin cycle. Possible that it "drips" slightly while in agitation, but not enough to notice it. While in spin mode you have a lot more parts moving as well as a lot more water pressure on the seal itself. Pump could also be leaking, but highly doubtful since it would leak a constant amount at all times. Good Luck!!! Jim

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You may want to check the seal at the bottom of the agitator, there is a o-ring that keeps the water in the drum from leaking through the agitator as it spins. This is a cheap seal and will wear over a period of time from exposure to bleach and detergent. You need to take the agitator apart and remove it from the drum and you should see this seal at the base of the agitator were it meets the drum.

Replace the seal and reassemble, take the metal casing off the washer and fill the drum with a little water, wait, and see if the water is leaking under the drum. If no leak, try to reassemble and run the washer. If is still leaks then check http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html

Yours Truly,
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