Question about Televison & Video
Will not turn on.changed plugs fuses,but nothing. was working fine.went to turn it on next day and nothing
Sounds like a power supply regulator board fault. Check its start voltage. You must have sound knowledge in electronics to repair this fault. If you wish to get more details, check this link. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Selecting the view option, either to Mosaic / Time slide, can be selected by the drop-down list, at the top left of the display window, will make surf easy. You can also do a search, by type in the brand name/model number/IC used, in the search box at the top right of the display window.
Posted on Oct 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
A ceramic fuse stands up to heat better than a non-ceramic fuse. I'm no pro, but it sounds like your power inverter board maybe bad. There are replacements out there. Good luck
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
I'm sure you already checked the outlet and the surge protector bar. It's lame how the warranty only last a year on this TV.
If your lucky, it will be just the fuse that need to be replaced. It will look like a little glass tube with metal caps on the ends. Radio Shack or an Electronic supply store will have the fuse. Just show them the fuse and they should match up the type and size. It needs to be 4amps and 125volts fuse.
If this doesn't work, you'll need to replace is the power supply board. The board# is BA71F0F01042. Your power supply board should have the same number on the lower right side of this board.
The board is hard to find right now. Only three places I know of to find it.
Sadly, nobody has them in stock.
I wish I had a extra board to sell you, because I know how to repair the power supply. I have the schematics diagrams and part# for the pieces on the board.
If you ever come across a replacement board, let me know. I would like to buy your old board. Here's my e-mail, email@example.com
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
We have a 3 year old 52 inch LCD Samsung LSN5296DX/XAA and it stopped working. The blue light in the front is on but it won't turn on using the front panel ON/OFF switch or the remote.
Thanks for couple of responses on this website; I was able to fix the problem in a day and spending only $3 on parts.
- Remove the back panel cover by taking out all the screws (about 20) and 4 large screws in the middle for wall mounting.
- Remove the protective metal cover of the left side (6 small screws) and expose the main power supply board (PN: BNN-00150A).
- You can order this board for $165 from Samsung and replace the entire board and your problem will be solved (by removing about 6 small screws and disconnecting a few cables)
- Or you can look at the upper right corner of the board to see if there are bad capacitors (they are blue cylindrical ¼ inch diameter and about ½ inch tall with two wires soldered to the board. The capacitors have an X on top and if they are bad you can see the bulging top as compared to smooth surface and black resin stuff coming out). They are labeled as 10 V, 1000 uf, 105 C (M). If you cannot find the exact one, then purchase capacitors with exactly 1000 uf and higher voltage, 16V, or 25V. Make sure they say Axial (cylindrical).
- For my board, only 3 of them were bad. Order these capacitors from RadioShack (1000 uf, 35V Axial Capacitor, PN: 272-1032, about $1.60 a piece plus shipping) or go to your local electronic store. I bought several 1000 uf, 16V at about $1 a piece from “You Do it Electronics” in Needham, MA.
- Simply remove the bad capacitors using a hot soldering device with fine tip, and place the new capacitors.
- Put the board back, put the protective cover on the board, and then large plastic cover back.
I assure you, the TV will starts by just replacing $3 in bad parts and less than an hour work. If I can do it, then anyone else can do it.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
This resistor in conjuction with large
electrolytic capacitor is responcible for the internal filtering of the high
voltage side of the board. As your unit heats up( anywhere fron 5 to 30 mins)
you will notice horizontal flickering and prior to that red or green or even purple pixelation. Check this 1/4 watt resistor for dark discoloration and or a bad solder joint
on the solder side of the board. This resistor is directly responcible for controlling the bias current to the high voltage
regulators for the 160 volts DC. At no time should you handle or troubleshoot
this board with the line plug in.
Even when this board is powered down that capacitor still holds a charge for up to an hour and can knock your you know what
in your sock. If you do not feel comfortable please take the board to someone else. Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Problem: Samsung LTM1755B with only a blinking yellow LED when you try to turn it
Solution: I just had one of these come in. I opened it up, and found the U501 capacitor a little suspicious looking, in that it had a deformed top. It was a 470uF 16V electrolytic 105degC 10mm x 12mm. I replaced it with a very good quality 1000uF 16V electrolytic 105degC 10mm x 16mm Nichicon UHN1C102MPD. After that repair, when I tried to turn it on, the LED was yellow for a second, then green, then I got a picture, and it appeared to work great. I then asked the owner a week later how it was working, and they said it was working just like new!
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
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