Question about Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer
Machine keeps stopping with the uL error. I rearrange the clothes, then the cycle backs up the time and refills then tries to spin and then goes uL again....I'm aggravated!!!
Unbalanced load? Don't over stuff the washer. The load sensing moves the drum back and forth at the start. If it can't balance the load it will err.
Posted on Oct 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I’ll try to help I’m an owner like you.
From the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW Service Manual;
UL = Latch Unlocked: Close lid tightly to enable locking.
That’s real helpful…. right?
Not sure how wash load size would cause the UL error to the display. From your post I believe you can’t complete a wash cycle at all is that correct?
Do the Lid Lock Latch’s look like they are projecting into the left and right side of the closed lid when you press the start button? If so you could try reseating the Left and Right Lid Lock Plugs a few times. There could be some corrosion issues preventing the Lid Lock signaling back to the Control Board. Those Lid Lock plugs can be difficult to unseat for the first time. The Left Lid Lock does suffer from corrosion issues with its proximity to the bleach dispenser. See page 34 of the SM. For the location of the Lid Lock The SM will show you how to rase the washer top from the base to access the Lid Locks.
This may only help if you or someone you know has basic mechanical skills, you know how to use a Digital Volt Meter and you are a diehard DIY’er. A schematic diagram of the washer should be in the console of your machine.
From looking at the schematic and Service Manual “You can download the SM from that link” the lid is locked signaling is coming from the lid locks. I believe you are losing the Lid Is Locked signaling from the lid locks or a common wiring point in the machines wiring harness going back to the Control Board on connector P3-8. The issue is where, why and how to correct for that loss of signaling.
It looks like the Control Board wants to see +12VDC at connector P3-8 “Lid Lock Input” for the proper Lid Lock status signaling that the Lid Is Locked. I would take my DVM and trace for what I believe is the loss of signaling back to the Control Board input from the Left & Right Lid Locks. What is the possibility that both Lid Locks have failed with that status? I believe not much, from looking at the schematic it looks like the status inputs +12VDC and outputs from those Lid Locks run in parallel into the machines wiring harness to a common point in the washer wiring harness then to the Lid Is Locked input of the Control Board Connector P3-8.
The question for you is how deep do you want to get into troubleshooting if at all and how long can you tolerate the washer down time?
I’m a technical owner and I would dive right in for this repair. I also have spare parts. Depending on your skill sets and if you have a DVM you have to decide how to proceed. I hope a forum member with more hands on knowledge then I will chime in with their solution on troubleshooting this issue. I don’t simply what to say call in Repair Service without having a feel for your desire and skill sets to troubleshoot the issue.
If you call in a repair service run my response by them. I believe just changing out the lid locks or the control board will not solve the issue but I could be out in left field with my thoughts. I don’t recommend you do this….. but I would try to clear the UL error by taking an alligator clip lead and jumpering Pin P3-8 “Lid Lock Input” and Pin P3-3 or 4 +12VDC Out of the Control Board and see if this clears the UL error. If the error cleared that would rule out a Control Board issue. Rich
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
SOURCE: Can I pack insulation around
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(If you haven't already, try my guidance notes on leveling, please!)
I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.
If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.
Posted on Mar 20, 2011
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