Question about Frigidaire Refrigerators
Model Number? Placing a model number here with and saying more about symptoms increases your chance at having a solution to the problem. I am here if you have questions, Thanks
Posted on Oct 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are no service valves on refrigerators for charging.(They must be added).
It may not be a refrigerant problem.
Is the freezer fan motor running?
Is there a frost/ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer?
Is the compressor fan motor running?
Is the compressor Running?
These are the first steps to verify before suspecting a refrigerant leak.
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
It sounds like you have a defrost component issue (e.g.: defrost thermostat, defrost heater(s) or defrost timer). Contact an appliance service company.
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
All of your cooling coils on this model are located in the freezer. If you are cold enough in the freezer your problem is air flow to the fresh food section.
- There is fan behind the back wall of the freezer, be sure that is running.
- Look for frost build up on the back wall of the freezer, if present we have a defrost problem
- look for the duct or channels between the floor and freezer and top of the refrigerator they could be blocked with ice, if so we have a drain problem.
Let me know what you find and I will help you from there.
Posted on Apr 18, 2010
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