Replacing the keypad ribbon

I thought I needed a sensor also ( and you might), but first try this. Remove keypad. Find ribbon connector near lower edge, Gently slide a plastic ball point pen between the 2 ribbons to gently separate them. They may feel glued together. I then used a Q-Tip with a drop of alcohol to swab between the ribbons. Then cut a small piece of paper, cardboard or plastic and slide between the separated ribbons. Re-install keypad. Problem with mine was the keypad was basically shorted out. The ribbon connectors being stuck together caused multiple errors like child lock and daylight savings errors. Hope this helps someone.

Those pesky keypads. It is common for the keypads to stop making contact when pressed or will stay making contact and cause failure code errors. You can try removing the ribbon cable from the control board (shut off power first) Carefully remove the ribbon cable from the mounting bracket. usually there are small tabs that must be pulled up on each side of the bracket before you can remove the ribbon. Take a pensil eraser and carefully clean the contacts on the ribbon and reinsert it back in the bracket. If this fixes it then fantastic. If not the touch control panel will need replacing. They are fairly expensive.

Insert your plastic pry tool into the seam in the side of your touch and run it along the length of the device to release the back panel from the front.
If your replacement screen did not come with a plastic pry tool, then a small flat-head screwdriver will also work.
Remove the square battery from the motherboard in the front housing by running the pry tool along the sides of it and gently pulling up.
Remove the small piece of black tape from the bottom of the front housing to expose three screws.
Remove the three screws using your small Phillips-head screwdriver. Remove the small screw near the top of the battery connector ribbon as well.
Remove the metal cover from the bottom of the front housing with the plastic pry tool.
This will expose the ribbon that connects the screen to the front housing and motherboard.
Flip the screen-connector ribbon up and gently pop it out. Then remove the two screws at the top of the front housing and disconnect the one other screen-connector ribbon.
This will release a thin metal board at the top of the housing that guards the screen. Pull the metal board out carefully.
Remove the 16 small screws from the side of the screen.
Once the screws are removed, the LCD screen will be free of the housing.
Gently remove the screen and replace it with the new one.
Replace the screws and reassemble the iPod touch the same way you took it apart.


video http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+replace+an+ipod+4g+screen&view=detail&mid=3843F00F64220E3352823843F00F64220E335282&first=0&qpvt=how+to+replace+an+ipod+4g+screen

flip locking flap on connector away from the gold pins. Slide the ribbon cable into the connector on the side with the gold pins as far as it will go. The ribbon goes face down with its gold pins facing down. Then using two fingers flip the locking flap down and toward the ribbon cable. It should click. Be careful, if you snap the flap it is game over.

The problem lies with the mylar ribbon cable that connects the Keypad to the circuit board. The Mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself and are touching. Over time the mylar 'breaks down' electrically and the wire traces in the mylar will 'arc' onto the other mylar ribbon cable. The solution is to separate the two mylar ribbon cables using paper and electrical tape. I've done this on several microwaves (not just Samsung) and it has worked every time. Patience and about 20 minutes is all it should take to fix it. I've described below how I did it for the SMH9187ST Microwave Good luck to all.

1. UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2. 1. Remove the top front cover by removing the (2) screws that are along the top edge (phillips).

3. 2. Slide the cover to the left about a half inch (there are tabs holding the cover in place) and remove.

4. 3. Remove (1) screw from the top of the Keypad Housing (phillips). Lift the Keypad Housing upwards about half an inch (there are tabs holding the Keypad Housing in place) and remove. Be careful of the metal grille that is just above the Keypad Housing as this may fall out since it is being held in place by the Housing.

5. 4. Be careful not to pull on the wiring harnesses that are attached to the Housing. Carefully unplug the wiring harness that has the RED connector on it from the circuit board. Carefully unplug the small white connector that has the mylar ribbon cable on it (this cable is see-through and you can see thin, flat wires in it).

6. 5. Remove (4) screws that are holding the circuit board onto the Housing.

7. The Housing should now be free of the circuit board and wiring harnesses. It's safe to let the wiring harness/circuit board hang free, but caution should be used anyway.

8. 6. Remove the thin metal frame from the Housing. There are (4) plastic tabs holding the frame in place. Using a small screw driver pry one side of the frame away from the housing (try to do this to the side that has smaller plastic tabs). When this side of the frame is free of the Housing you have to lift the frame out at an angle to remove. It might put up a fuss, but be patient and be gentle with it since the frame is thin and fragile.

9. 7. With the frame out of the way you will see the mylar ribbon cable that is coming out from underneath the Keypad assembly. You will notice that the mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself as it re-enters the Keypad assembly. This 'touching of the two ribbon cables' is where the trouble lies. The ribbon cables may be stuck together. Carefully separate these two and then insert a small piece of paper between them (paper can be 1/2 x 1/2 ) and work the paper all the way down into the Keypad assembly as far as it will go.

10. 8. Using electrical tape, apply a small piece between the ribbon cables to hold the paper in place. Next, use more electrical tape and put it between the mylar ribbon cables enough so as to keep the ribbon cables separated.

11. 9. Re-attached the thin metal frame making sure to press it into the Keypad assembly enough so that the (4) tabs click into place.

12. 10. Use electrical tape and apply it to the raw metal edge of the thin metal frame to prevent the mylar ribbon cables from rubbing on the metal edge.

13. 11. That's it. A final word of caution. Be careful when inserting the ribbon cable connector back on to the circuit board. The connector is loose and you need to gently place the ribbon cable into the circuit board connector.

14. 12. Reverse the order of assembly from above.

15. 13. Plug in the microwave and then it should reset and ask you to set the time.

16. Hope this works for you !!

This fixed mine.

The problem lies with the mylar ribbon cable that connects the Keypad to the circuit board. The Mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself and are touching. Over time the mylar 'breaks down' electrically and the wire traces in the mylar will 'arc' onto the other mylar ribbon cable. The solution is to separate the two mylar ribbon cables using paper and electrical tape. I've done this on several microwaves (not just Samsung) and it has worked every time. Patience and about 20 minutes is all it should take to fix it. I've described below how I did it for the SMH9187ST Microwave Good luck to all.

1. UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2. 1. Remove the top front cover by removing the (2) screws that are along the top edge (phillips).

3. 2. Slide the cover to the left about a half inch (there are tabs holding the cover in place) and remove.

4. 3. Remove (1) screw from the top of the Keypad Housing (phillips). Lift the Keypad Housing upwards about half an inch (there are tabs holding the Keypad Housing in place) and remove. Be careful of the metal grille that is just above the Keypad Housing as this may fall out since it is being held in place by the Housing.

5. 4. Be careful not to pull on the wiring harnesses that are attached to the Housing. Carefully unplug the wiring harness that has the RED connector on it from the circuit board. Carefully unplug the small white connector that has the mylar ribbon cable on it (this cable is see-through and you can see thin, flat wires in it).

6. 5. Remove (4) screws that are holding the circuit board onto the Housing.

7. The Housing should now be free of the circuit board and wiring harnesses. It's safe to let the wiring harness/circuit board hang free, but caution should be used anyway.

8. 6. Remove the thin metal frame from the Housing. There are (4) plastic tabs holding the frame in place. Using a small screw driver pry one side of the frame away from the housing (try to do this to the side that has smaller plastic tabs). When this side of the frame is free of the Housing you have to lift the frame out at an angle to remove. It might put up a fuss, but be patient and be gentle with it since the frame is thin and fragile.

9. 7. With the frame out of the way you will see the mylar ribbon cable that is coming out from underneath the Keypad assembly. You will notice that the mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself as it re-enters the Keypad assembly. This 'touching of the two ribbon cables' is where the trouble lies. The ribbon cables may be stuck together. Carefully separate these two and then insert a small piece of paper between them (paper can be 1/2 x 1/2 ) and work the paper all the way down into the Keypad assembly as far as it will go.

10. 8. Using electrical tape, apply a small piece between the ribbon cables to hold the paper in place. Next, use more electrical tape and put it between the mylar ribbon cables enough so as to keep the ribbon cables separated.

11. 9. Re-attached the thin metal frame making sure to press it into the Keypad assembly enough so that the (4) tabs click into place.

12. 10. Use electrical tape and apply it to the raw metal edge of the thin metal frame to prevent the mylar ribbon cables from rubbing on the metal edge.

13. 11. That's it. A final word of caution. Be careful when inserting the ribbon cable connector back on to the circuit board. The connector is loose and you need to gently place the ribbon cable into the circuit board connector.

14. 12. Reverse the order of assembly from above.

15. 13. Plug in the microwave and then it should reset and ask you to set the time.

16. Hope this works for you !!

If memory serves me, -SE- means system error which indicates a keypad failure, the microprocessor ic is mounted on a circuit board along with other componants directly behind the keypad and controls the oven vital functions. If you have any warranty of any kind, now is the time to use it.

Probably, yes.
Remove the 2 screws on the side,
Remove the 3 screws in the buttom. (2 of which are tri-wing)
Remove the 2 screws in the battery compartment.
Flip out the chrome side (from the front backwards)
Remove the 2 screws underneath the chrome side.
Turn the camera upside down. You can now flip the backcover down (gently lift the cover, both on the mid by the tripd hole and on the side, where the crome plate was) Watch out for the USB connector.
Gently lift the broken LCD out. You need to release (flip up) the tiny white lock on the connector to release the ribbon.
Assembly same procedure, but backwards.
Beware of the flash components. The can give a nasty electrical chock.

There's a small plastic spring type clip that fits under the key. It has little nubs that stick out the side and fit into slots on the keypad base. The nubs break and your lucky if you find a replacement that stays in place long. You can get a new keypad for about 40 bucks on ebay and replace it in about 10 minutes.

There's a plastic trim strip across the top. pop one side with a small flat screw driver, remove, 2 screws at the top of the keypad and a ribbon cable to the motherboard. When removing the ribbon cable there's a small lip at the top of the connector, carefully lift that lip and the ribbon will pop out. Have fun

First remove the AC adapter (Charger) if plugged in. Then remove the battery.

Next step is removing the Keypad Securing Strip. This is a plastic cover right Above the keypad, and below the LCD screen. Looking at it, you'll notice on the Left and Right sides of it, that it has a U-shape.
This U-shape covers the LCD screen hinges.

Take a small flat tip jewelers screwdriver, and come from the right side of this plastic strip. You will see a thin parting line, where this plastic strip meets the laptop body. Your flat tip goes in this parting line. You have to use finesse. It's doubtful you'll break the plastic strip, as it's REAL tough! But if you slip, you could scratch the plastic. (Actually, it's pretty hard to scratch that plastic! Just thought I would caution you. The plastic strip is made of a spaceage plastic. Pretty tough stuff!)

The plastic strip has tabs around the edges, every so often. These
plastic tabs snap into place, and hold the Keypad Securing Strip on. When you begin, it's a little tough to get that flat tip down in there. (Remember ->Jewelers screwdriver!)

Plus, you may be at one of the points that there is a tab. Usually there is a 'dimpled' flat place, that looks like a flat tip should go there.
With the flat tip jewelers screwdriver inserted a little, ease back on the screwdriver, and lift the plastic strip up.
It will look like it's bending. If you have another flat tip Jewelers screwdriver, or a small butterknife, you can insert it, and hold this part up. Then take the other flat tip, move over a little, and start lifting up.

Once this Keypad Securing Strip starts coming up, it will come to one of those tabs, and the tab will come up and out. You'll hear a POP, and think you broke it! You didn't.

Go along the edge, and keep popping this strip up. Use caution, as to how far you insert that flat tip screwdriver!
There are tiny little wires under there, and you don't want to pinch one, or tear it loose. Keep the flat tip, about a half a fingernail length in, and you won't.

Once you get towards the other side enough, the strip will let loose, and come up.
Without disconnecting the wires, see if you can lay the strip towards the back, and lay it out of the way. Towards the LCD screen. You are trying to get to the screws, that secure the keypad. They will be in a metal strip for the keypad, and towards the LCD screen.
I can't remember at this point if there are two, three, or four screws. You'll be able to see, and you'll know.

(Use Caution! You can easily drop these screws! They might go right into the body of the laptop. You MAY be lucky enough, to pick the laptop up, turn it over, and gently shake the laptop, to have them fall on the table. You MAY not be so lucky, and have to disassemble the entire laptop, to get to them!)

IF, the Keypad Securing Strip will not lay out of the way, so that you can get to the keypad screws, you'll have to remove it.
It isn't tough, but it looks daunting the first time.

You will see small White connectors in the middle of the cables.
Two wire cables, if memory serves. These connectors are small White rectangular blocks. There is a Female and a Male. You just take your fingernails, and ease the connectors apart.
Don't worry about how they go back together. They are different sizes. You just match up the size.

Now with the keypad securing screws removed, ease the keypad forward a little, and bring the front of it up to a tilted position. (Towards the LCD screen is the front of the keypad) You don't want to bring it straight up, as there is a flat ribbon cable you need to disconnect. The flat ribbon cable attaches at the back of the keypad. (Towards you) It has a White connector.

This connector is different, from the ones you have disconnected already. The connector itself has a locking 'bar'.
This thin rectangular piece of plastic, goes across the length of the connector.
It is positioned at the front of the connector. It comes forward, towards the flat ribbon cable end, that is connected to the keypad.

It slides. It only slides so far, then stops. It is at this point, that you remove the flat ribbon cable itself. The one towards the keypad. There will be No connector on that flat ribbon cable. It will be just the ribbon cable itself.

When you reattach it, you just slide the flat ribbon cable back into the White connector. Then you ease that locking bar back into position. The position that it started from.

Now reverse your steps.