a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
13.85 volts is barely sufficient and would indicate an alternator fault if the reading was taken "off-load"..
An alternator is not designed to charge the battery and is incapable of doing so because the terminal voltage of the battery quickly rises to fool the voltage regulator into believing even a discharged battery is fully charged and will quickly reduce the charge rate to a trickle.
The alternator is therefore designed to keep a fully charged battery fully charged by supplying all the current for the vehicle equipment and the output rating is chosen for this purpose.
The voltage regulator should limit the off-load voltage to about 14.5 volts but that is only a small part of the alternator test. A professional would apply a load across the battery equal to the rated output while monitoring the voltage and current. Most healthy alternators exceed specifications.
For a sensible in-service test when an adjustable load isn't available, with a fully-charged battery it is sufficient to start the engine, leaving it to idle and switch on all the vehicle equipment. Fit a voltmeter to the battery and wait while the battery voltage is pulled down by the load - to around 12.5 volts. Raising the engine speed to 2500/3000 rpm should cause the voltmeter to suddenly rise.
13.85 would be just about acceptable "on-load" but in excess of 14.0 volts would be ideal.
Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop ! Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart
Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
Battery junction box fuse:
Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
Charging system warning indicator
Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.
Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .
Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation
Ignition Switch Position
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
Engine to Battery Ground
Charging System Warning Indicator Operation
1/2 battery voltage
If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
GO to Pinpoint Test B .
Your whole problem is the alternator is not charging , a couple tests with a volt meter would tell you !
IF a battery drains down when out of the vehicle it indicates an internal fault in the battery (bad cell)
Most vehicles do not have anything in the CPU to refer to the alternator or charging system unless it is really late and upmarket model where the ECM provides regulation for the alternator output.
you can check the out put yourself by attaching a mulitmeter across the battery terminals and set on dc volts . Start the engine and see the volts at around 2000rpms. turn on the head lights and re-chech the voltage at 2000rpms
the voltage in both cases should read 14.5-14.7 volts
If it is lower or over that there is a problem in the regulation of the alternator output and should be checked by an accredited auto electrician
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. GL1500 alternator testing procedure How to Check Your Motorcycle Charging System Honda GL1500 Service Manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda Goldwing GL1500 SE Owner Manual
Could be 2 possibilities, 1 a tired battery, after awhile they don't hold a charge. #2 could be bad voltage regulator and thats in your alternator. Do you have a test meter? You can test output at battery, while vehicle is running it should read 13-14+ volts anything less, time for new alternator.
check your battery 1st , then check the stator a/c output
• 10 or 16 Amps DC regulated for charging
• Two black leads (C) from stator
• Yellow connector (D) with two pin
• Two yellow leads (E) to regulator-rectifier
• One red lead (B) from regulator-rectifier
to red connector output lead (A)
• 10 and 16 Amp systems use the same
stator, color coding and regulator-rectifier
• Alternator output is determined by the
flywheel alternator magnet size
The stator and regulator-rectifier are the same
for the 10 and 16 Amp systems. The system
output is determined by the flywheel magnet
Test Alternator Output
1. Temporarily disconnect stator wire
harness from the regulator-rectifier.
2. Insert RED test lead (A, Figure 28) into the
V ω receptacle in the meter.
3. Insert BLACK test lead (B) into COM
4. Rotate selector to AC Volts position.
5. Insert RED (A) and BLACK (B) test lead
probes into output terminals (D & E) in
YELLOW connector (C). (Test clip leads
may be attached to either terminal).
6. With the engine running at 3600 rpm, the
output should be no less than:
• 20 volts - 10 Amp System
• 30 volts - 16 Amp System
7. If No or Low output is found, check for
bare wires or other defects. If wiring
defects are not found, replace the stator.
voltage depending on alternator type and magnet size
then check the regulator / rectifier , make sure it is grounded properly
make sure battery earth lead is good
i suspect loss of bat voltage is letting the afterfire solenoid close off the main jet
let me know model and type codes off engine & i will try help further
Go to Autozone or Oreillys for a free scan. You would need to catch the voltage before it goes across the battery to know how much the regulator is sending to the battery. If the battery is that bad you are only measuring battery voltage and not alternator output.
Since most regulators are inside the newer alternators you will need to physically open the alternator to replace the regulator or buy a new alternator. If the battery is rapidly dying you are probably correct about the alternator. Usually a battery at 10 volts will hold 10 volts when it is getting a 14.2 volt boost to its good cells. Not drop like yours is doing.