Question about Washing Machines
Machine will not power up. When you plug machine in there is no clicking sound, no lights nothing
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Perfect! Yes, they aer 1/4" 6pt screws. I didn't have to lift my washer, but the previous tech had put in 1 screw crooked, so that was FUN! I had cut out an opening on an old cracked tote and was able to hold all the water as long as I transferred some to a bunch of tupperware. Make sure you line up the upper mark on the white drain plug before putting back in. The tote was getting overloaded and I didn't notice the alignment marks until after having some water overflow. Just a heads-up if anyone has an emergency and HAS to get the plug back in in a hurry.
Wife's Victoria's Secret panties
a metal nut
Posted on Jun 30, 2008
My machine had the F21 code and the inlet to the pump was blocked with change, bobby pins, small rocks, pieces of fuzz and clothing. Removed the front cover of the mahine and removed the cap on the front side of the pump and cleaned this trap area out. The pump motor quit humming and the machine worked like it is supposed to!
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
SOURCE: Duet Sport WFW8300SW01
This is a pretty easy repair to do and all you need to do is open up the door and go around the outer lip of the bellows gasket and find the retaining loop that holds the front edge onto the front cabinet panel. Look for the locking loop and carefully remove it. I find that a couple of pairs of small needle nose pliers work well, just be careful not to bend the retaining wire loop, as you'll need to reuse this when you put the new bellows gasket on.
Here's a line drawing that shows your washer model and the parts involved, to help make this a bit easier to understand and so you can see what you're going to do.
Once you've got the outer lip retainer off, you'll be able to roll back the gasket off the front panel mounting lip and get to the rear hose clamp. It's basically a giant diameter hose clamp like you'd find on your car's radiator, etc. You'll need a small socket or nut driver to remove this clamp (usually it's either a 1/4" or 5/16" but sometimes it's a larger 3/8" size.
Loosen it and remove it carefully and you can now remove the entire bellows gasket.
When you go to install the new one, you'll want to make sure that you line up the water inlet section properly (if your's has this design, so do, some don't). Be careful not to rip or tear the gasket when putting it on the outer tub and when you tighten up the clamp. Take your time and don't rush this, as you don't want to be doing it again, as these gaskets aren't cheap!
Once you've got the rear of the gasket on, you can then carefully and gently start pulling the front lip onto and over the outer front cabinet. It helps to have help in holding the starting point onto the lip while you continue installing the rest of the bellows gasket onto the cabinet lip.
Once you've got the entire gasket on the front cabinet and you're sure it's on the lip all the way around the panel. You can then reinstall the retaining wire loop.
Now you're done and can give it a try, as you've just likely saved yourself about another $150-175 bill by not having to have a service tech come out and do the job for you!
Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
First check your washer plug to see if the connections are tightly
screwed. Next check your filter if you haven't for long.
Remove the 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel under the washer door. Your filter door will be light brown. If you find a hose there it is to drain out excess water (water that could not be drained by your pump) After you hv drained unscrew the cap and remove all the junk inside. Have a large plastic bag to catch junk and water. Refit carefully after cleaning out. If not solved, something shd be blocking your pump, check this out
How abt a nice rating for the free help? Thnks
Posted on May 17, 2010
This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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