Loose stitch right needle thread serger

I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
Sewing Basics Narrow Rolled Hems with Serger Sew Mama Sew Outstanding...

try adjusting the thread tension to that needle and check for burrs along the threading path and on the needle plate

It appears that there are two issues: skipping stitches, and, loose stitches. Let's deal with them individually but first some general points to check.
1. Change both needles for completely fresh ones out of the package. Make sure that they are inserted all the way up, this is very important. The right needle should appear longer than the left one. Make sure also that you are using the correct needles for your serger.
2. Use a good quality thread with very little stretch, almost no fuzzies, and in pastel colour. Dark thread ages quicker, therefore has a shorter shelf live. A good quality sewing machine thread is also acceptable.
3. Make sure that the tension dials are clean and free of lint or other debris.
4. Re-thread the serger in this order, keeping the presser foot in the down position at all times
a) Upper looper. Ensure that the thread is securely embedded inside the tension discs. Place the thread tail under the presser foot to 11:00 o'clock and place the presser foot down again
b) Lower looper. This is the difficult one to thread but make sure that all the thread guides are properly threaded as well as the upper looper elbow. Check that the thread is lodged between the tension discs. Once the lower looper eye is threaded, place the thread in front and over the upper looper and then under the presser foot to 11:00 o'clock and place the presser foot down again.
c) Right Needle. Thread the right needle path, again ensuring that the thread is between the tension discs. Place the thread tail under the presser foot to 11:00 o'clock and lower the presser foot.
d) Left Needle. Proceed as with left needle.
e) Double check that all tension dials have their respective threads embedded between the discs by pulling firmly up on each thread above the tension dials.
f) Check that the stitch length is set to between 2.5 and 3.0, differential to normal, blade position to middle, blade is engaged, and upper looper converter not in use.
g) Set tensions to recommended setting for 4-thread overlock.
g) Make a test stitch out. How is it? Still having the same issue/s?
If yes, continue with the items listed below, otherwise have a great time serging.

Skipping Stitches:
1. Check that the looper tips are smooth. Burrs will cause problems.
2. Check that the needles match the type of fabric being sewn.

Loose Stitches:
1. Double check threading.
2. Debris caught between tension discs will also manifest itself in loose stitches. Take an 8" X 6" piece of medium weight clean and lint free cotton fabric, fold it in half length-wise and pass the fold only firmly between the tension discs from top to bottom (with the presser foot up and no thread in the tension dials).

Re-thread and test stitch. How is it now?

sergers the most frustrating machines. Every time you change fabrics you go through a tension adjusting phase.

First make sure you have threaded the machine in the proper order. upper looper, lower looper, then needles from right to left. Always thread any machine while the presser foot lever is in the UP position.

If you ever break a thread... you MUST pull all threads and rethread using the proper order.

Ok that's out of the way. Pull all your threads and get out several pieces of the same fabric scrap. Thread each pathway with a different color. This will help you determine which thread is giving you fits. Sew a test strip. Which thread is loose? tighten/loosen that tension. Keep doing this until you have a well balance seam. Then clip the colored threads starting with the upper looper thread, tie off to your proper color for your seam pull the thread through and up through the throat plate. proceed in this manner with lower looper, right needle, left needle. Sew a test seam.

Good luck.

your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

How do you mean the tension are off? A serger should have 3 or 4 tension knobs (although yours looks like it is push button digital settings) and generally from new these will produce a standard stitch when all are set to 5. Are you sure that you've got the thread pulled into the tension discs fully? Check each one by pulling on the thread below the tension disc and feel for resistance, if the thread pulls very easily, then recheck and thread again.

Have you got the thread aerial raised up to the full height? Remember also to put the plastic cone holders under the thread cones as you want the cone to stay still and the thread to feed off it - it does this very fast, sergers sew at 1500 stitches per minute so the thread streams off the cones very quickly.

Using a serger is quite different to a sewing machine and your model looks like its one of the later computerised ones with multiple stitch options including coverstitch. I'd suggest that you go back to your dealer and ask to spend time with them for a demo, thread up in front of them for pointers or take a class to familiarise yourself fully with the machine. Then go home again, break out the manual, and go through threading up from scratch several times until you've got it off pat. Remember to thread top looper, bottom looper, left needle, right needle in this sequence always, then pull all threads under the foot, lower pressure foot and serge off a short chain. To change colour thread, you can always cut and knot on new threads, turn tension down and pull through the loopers, but you've got to thread the needles fresh each time you change colour.

There is some good videos on You-tube, Nancy Zieman has a several and she's also written several books on using a serger and obviously the manual is first point of reference.

Each fabric will behave differently so for each new fabric, you will need to adjust tensions and move the blade to get it stitch and just encasing the cut edge at a suitable width. To work out how it should look, break out some ready to wear garments and have a look at those seams, then test and practice with your machine to get a similar stitch. Always test serge two thickenesses if you are going to use it to construct your garments and pull open from the right side to ensure the needle thread is tight enough so the seams don't pull open under wear.

Good idea to keep your test seam samples in a notebook and write down the settings you used for reference next time. I have to say, I've done flatlock with silky decorative thread once in 19 years - but I do know how to set up the machine for this. However, rolled hem with wooly thread is very useful and I often use this to edge hems. I'm envious of your coverstitch option, this is great for hemming and necklines and is something early sergers didnt do.

Just checked out this model on an Ebay vendor's site and it mentions a training DVD, you've got several different stitch types to master with this machine so there will be some learning and practice involved to get it right. Good luck - I hope this is of some help but I'd be visiting the dealer for specific help if you can.

Hi

If you have the operators manual for this serger, you should be able to follow the threading from the start successfully. Some machines have a better threading diagram on the machine itself.

The needles should have the groove facing the operator's position. They should also be fully inserted in their mounts. Most sergers do not release the thread tensions when the presser foot is raised, therefore, you must zero the tensions to make sure the threads are fully entered into the tensioners when threading anew. After threading, you must readjust your thread tensions to the desired tensions for the set-up you plan to use. Thread tensions should be recorded for each stitch set-up because each serger tends to be a bit different, and therefore, allows you to quickly adjust for the desired stitch needed. The different stitches are adjust and fine tuned by each individual thread tension.

Hope this helps
Ray

The seam that is loose is formed by the left needle. It sounds like the thread is just not in the unit all the way. Using both hands, pull on the thread at the top and the bottom of the unit to force the thread deeper into the unit. Whenever you thread your serger, do this with each thread to be sure you get it deep into the metal discs that squeeze the thread. Always check by pulling on the thread through the eye of the needle before you sew to see if you feel resistance. Make sure you lower the foot that rests on the fabric when you do this test, because some sergers, "release" the tensions when the foot is up. If your tension is correct, the needle will bow slightly before the thread comes through the machine. The tension on the loopers is much looser than the needles.

1) It’s possible the machine is threaded incorrectly. Remove the thread completely and rethread the machine. Be sure to use good quality thread--don't buy the cheapest you can find. A good thread will help your machine perform better and your projects last longer.

2) Poor stitch quality can be caused by the needle. Make sure you're using a new needle that's right for the job. Many times machines are taken in for repairs and all they need is a new needle. If you can't remember the last time you changed the needle--it's past time. Needles should be changed at least every eight hours of sewing.

3) When inserting a new needle, make sure the flat side of the needle faces away from the bobbin area. For example, if your machine has a frontloading bobbin, the flat side of the needle faces the back of the machine. If your machine has a side-loading bobbin, the flat side faces the right side of the machine. Some older sergers require special needles that don't have a flat side. Refer to your owner's manual to properly install a serger needle.

4) Thread that shreds or breaks can be blamed on the needle. Use a good thread and make sure the needle eye is large enough for the thread type. Also use the right type of needle for the fabric;
5) The machine tension adjustments put stress on the thread so it doesn't simply flow through the machine. When the upper and lower tensions are balanced, the stitch forms correctly. Tension is easy to adjust--stitch on fabric samples with a different thread colour for the upper and lower threads. Observe the stitch, adjusting the tension until the stitch is formed correctly. As a general rule, adjust the upper tension first. If the stitch still isn't right, adjust the bobbin tension.