Hi, I`m interested to buy a book - Sevcik for Viola - Opus 9: Preparatory Studies in Double-Stopping (Sevcik Violin Studies)but I would like to know if it could send it to me in an digital format, like pdf
Viorel Tudor, Spain
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It is not clear exactly what parts are missing. If you can find the screw or thumbscrew part, consider MAKING YOUR OWN sleeve...Possibly use a short length of copper tubing or cut a piece of rod and drill a hole in it for the sleeve... Sometimes for a spacer we have just stacked up several small nuts... better than spending $50 for whole new rest.
The Barcus berry range of transducers is well established and they are good quality.
It depends on what you are doing with your fiddle!
I use a K & K pickup on my double bass and its FANTASTIC.
Check out their violin pickups - their kits is professional quality
Yes, assuming the spongy part has not deteriorated, get some contact cement and follow the directions. Coat the metal and the spongy with a thin coat of the cement. Let dry till tacky and then carefully press the spongy into place. Make sure you get it straight as once the glue touches it grabs. Start one end and then roll it down into place.
If the spngy part has deteriorated, find new material and apply as above.
Hello, what a great violin to own, I am jealous. Each string on your violin has a pickup sensor under it. So, what you have are 4 sensors (one for each string) and the signals are then fed into your violin's electronics and mixed there to provide a wonderful rich sound. The sensor under the D string has a problem. I would look there first and in the electronics package last. The best advice I can offer is this, I also am a musician and play violin and 12 string ovation guitar. I have worked on both my instruments, unless you are very skilled in your knowledge of electronics and the delicate work on the sensors on your violin, I would take it to a craftsman (person) that has the skills to change out the sensor. Sometimes it can be a bad solder connection in the electronics, especially with the vibrations that an instrument causes, again, this would be for someone extremely skilled in instrument repair.
The impedance varies depending on how you connect. It would be too complicated to explain the impedance to the average person.
From the schematic we have the TRS 1/4 inch jack having basically 100K and parallel 220 pf cap to ground EACH signal line and 10K resistance between. (The TRS jack if used disconnects the XLR and its components)
If one uses the XLR jack, one has an ADDITIONAL 100K each side in parrallel to ground PLUS an ADDITIONAL 2.2K resistor shunting between.
In ADDITION to the above, there is effectively 160K ohms to ground each side that is the input resistance to the input OP-AMP.
The effective impedance will depend on how and where you measure it.
Not sure what peizo you are using... For one on wife's violin we go into a X2 wireless which has about 1.6 Megohm. The receiver of course is fairly low impedance drive to the amp.
For the violin (Autolycus) pickup and others, severe distortion of the waveform existed when run directely into most amps and of course long cables worsened it at the high frequencies.