Question about GE GSL25JFPBS Side by Side Refrigerator

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I have a GE GSL25JFPBS side by side refrigerator. I suddenly have a problem where my refrigerator is not cold enough and my freezer has frost buildup along the back. This happened once before about a month ago, and it seemed to have corrected itself. The problem has returned. In my refrigerator, things are around 50 degrees. In the freezer, my meat at the bottom of the freezer seems rock hard, but my ice cream at the top of the freezer is soft. I understand that warm air rises and cold air drops, but in the past, I have never had this problem with the ice cream at the top. Both of my dials for the freezer and refrigerator were set to 5 on a scale of 1-warmest to 9-coldest A week or two ago, I went food shopping and had the freezer packed pretty tight with food. I am wondering if an airflow issue initiated the problem. Last night, I pulled some food out and saw the orange glow of the defroster running, so I know that the defroster coils turn on. I moved some things around to help the air flow. I turned the knobs to 7 to increase the coldness last night, but things were not any better this morning.

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  • ejobrien Oct 15, 2013

    Just another piece of information...I had lettuce in my crisper (bottom drawer of refrigerator) freeze completely last week. I thought that was odd, so I turn down the dial on the crisper.



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  • GE Master
  • 842 Answers


Without seeing you unit and going by what you have described in detail, (thanks you for all this information). I would look into the sensors in the freezer. Part number WR55X10025. The unit has 4 of them, two in fridge section and two in freezer section.
I would be looking at the one on the evaporator itself as this one controls the cooling cycle and defrost of the unit. If it is out of range (this happens) this will cause either issue to happen. Either it will never go into defrost, won't complete defrost, or not run long enough to chill the unit down effectively. This is a common issue and the factory has changed vendors over the years to stop this issue from happening. Right now the sensor should have a black tip where the wires enter it, the old ones were white. If you have the white ones, I would change both in the freezer section so you are updated while your in there. This units are cheap and not difficult to change.

Hit me up if you have any further questions. I hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 15, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Freezer not freezing enough and fridge not cold enough

Hello Scott, remove the food from the freezer side and remove the rear freezer panel. You will see a coil and it should be completely frosted over. If not then you have a sealed system issue. If it is froze solid in frost where you cannot even see the coil, then you have a defrost issue. You should have a little frost on all the coil, the defrost is what clears the frost so the evap fan motor can circulate the air thru out the unit. If frost is good, push the light door switch to start the fan. If it isn't running check for 120 volts. If it has voltage, but not running, replace the motor. Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

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SOURCE: refrigerator warm on top, cold bottom, blower fan top of freezer not turning

check continuity thro the fan motor and check it is free to turn. also check if power is present at the fan

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE TFX26KRDA WW 2001 side by side refrig/freezer w warm fridge

Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: DSS25KSRD SS GE Adora refrigerator- ice in tray

It sounds like the # 4 thermistor is bad . You will have to remove the lower inside rear freezer panel ( 2 or 4 screws ) and on the top of the coils , you will see a 1 " long torpedo looking piece , clipped on , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . This thermistor , tells the maon control board , the temperature of the freezer coils ( evaporator ) and when to defrost and when to stop defrosting and turn the compressor back on . There is also a defrost thermostat which cuts the heater off to keep from over heating , but I do not believe this is part of your problem . You should also replace the # 5 thermistor , located behind the oval grill , mounted on the lower right side of the freezer . This thermistor , tells the main control board , the temperature of the freezer section .

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: freezer defrosting at will; refrigerator side uneven temperatures

Sound like it's going into showroom mode that the same problem we had, by unplugging it for awhile and then plugging it back in usually works if not this what we were told.
Sounds like you have bad thermistors ( # 4 and/or # 5 ) .To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The # 4 thermistor , tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , when to cycle off , associated with the fan speed also

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

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Freezer is not getting cold

Can you remove the rear panel you see the ice buildup on the evaporator? I believe your refrigerator has a defective defrost element. You need to unplug refrigerator remove the panel and see what type of frost pattern you have. Here is a link to what you may see behind that panel=> HERE This is a link to what you said you see with frost on the rear panel=> HERE Can you confirm that your refrigerator model number is GSL25JFPBS? Look around the fresh food section door for your model number. Here is a photo HERE with the locations number 230 is the defrost heater=> WR51X10055 Defrost Heater Assembly

And location number 240 is the defrost thermostat=> WR50X10068 Defrost Thermostat

I would like to know what frost pattern and the true model number of your refrigerator so I can help you better. If it has the frosted over evaporator like in the photo above you can defrost with a hair drier and the refrigerator may cool again up to a week until you can replace the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. How to test these parts can be found on the same page as the part numbers I posted here, Thanks Sea Breeze

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I have frost on the freezer side and both the freezer and fridge are not keeping the food / frozen items cold. The fridge seems to be running constantly

remove the rear panel in the freezer,and if evaporator coils a solid block of ice,take a hand held hair dryer and melt the ice,then remove the heater located under the coil and test it for continuity,if open replace it with g.e.# wr51x10055 heater element

Aug 07, 2011 | GE GSL25JFPBS Side by Side Refrigerator

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The ice maker is not working and the freige is not getting cold. everything is defrosting

first check the inside rear wall of the freezer for frost buildup,if the wall is frost covered remove this cover and defrost the evaporator coil,then remove and replace the heater located under the coil,if no frost on this wall,then replace the ptc overload relay on the compressor as this will be your problem

Aug 07, 2011 | GE GSL25JFPBS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have a GE GSL25JFPBS side by side. Freezer works okay, but refrigerator does not. Coils in rear of freezer are frosted toward the bottom of the coils. I shut down the freezer, removed frost, blew out...

You wake up in the morning and go to the refrigerator to get some breakfast. When you get out the milk, juice or whatever it is you get for breakfast, you notice something is wrong. It's not cold! The next thing you do is open up the freezer and see if that is still working properly. Wheeew it is. But why?
What you probably didn't notice was that the freezer has not been going through it's normal defrost cycle. Because of this un-noticed event going on, there has been frost building up on the evaporator coils that doesn't belong there. After this frost continues to build up over the course of a few days to a week or so, now you are going to start to notice the effects.

Here is what's happening when you have a malfunction in the defrost system.
  • Air cannot circulate from the freezer(where the cold happens basically) to the fresh food section.
  • Your refrigerator will run constantly to try to cool the fresh food section. This will develop a new set of problems with your refrigerator. More on that later....
  • Excess frost builds up within the coils inside the freezer. This is what is blocking the air flow to the fresh food section
  • Usually you will notice the icemaker will stop making ice. Poor air flow and not quite cold enough temperatures in the freezer cause this
  • Water will not come through the dispenser on the door. Cold air settles, the water resovoir will freeze.
  • Compressor may overheat and shut off. This is when you hear, click, click, click. Not good
  • Ice Cream in the Freezer will start to get soft. That's really not that bad. lol
What can you do about this. Let me explain the defrost system in general so you get an understanding of what is going on.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold". They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode.When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool and everybody is happy. you have to be able to do a continuity test on the defrost therrmostat as well as the defrost heater 79 precent of the time it is the thermostat that is defective if you receive both postive results after testing both of these and they both passed your continuity test then you would look at the defrost timer or in some models the board on the back side under the panel of the fridge if you have any further questions message me back and please remember when this chat has concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation so that i may continue to help people like yourself in the future with similar situations Thanks again Rick

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More likely a defrost heater. Look inside the freezer at the back wall. Any frost there? If so, turn off refrig., unload freezer, take back panel off inside freezer, and use a hair dryer to melt off the frost. Replace the defrost heater located at the bottom of the frosted coils. (New heater may appear different than original, but instructions are included) If you don't have the defrost heater on hand, just manually defrosting the coils and re-starting the refrig will get is cooling again for at least a week before problem will re-occur. (this give you enough time to get the replacement part)

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