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Easy one this, Remove the footwell carpet (Just un-pin it from the poppers and roll it up best you can, hold with tape if needed, you just need to get it clear of the footwell) Then dry the area with a towel. Get some kids waterbased paint (orange is good, shows up better) and coat the entire area (Dont worry it comes off with a wet rag). Let it dry then get a hose and go crazy! hose off the outside area, underneath, anywhere the leak is lightely to originate. Any leak inside the vehicle can be traced via the darkened now wet orange paint! simples!
If its the passenger footwell its almost always from the windscreen seal, Older Vits had a big rubber plug in the floor pan, these sometimes came loose!
If you do narrow it down to the windscreen, a word of caution. Dont try to simply spread mastic over the original seal! the leak will be from underneath this so applying anything on top is just a waste of time! The Guys at autoglass ect replace windscreen seals for a hobby. Next time you see a van driving around have a word with the driver. Most wont refuse a cheeky twenty quid for five mins work! Thats how I got mine fixed!
Soapy water never worked for me... Pour kids bubbles into a bowl and use a paint brush to spread the bubbles on the top ring. If there is a hole you'll see it begin to blow a bubble where the hole is. patch with vinyl repair kit.
Look for tell tale signs under the bonnet such as brown trails. Do you find water loss when the car is standing still unused or only after having used it. Be methodical, the coolant follows a pretty basic circuits:
Primary: engine, thermostat housing, top radiator hose, radiator, radiator bottom hose, water pump (has the drive/fan belt running around its pulley)
Secondary: engine rear top pipe, heater matrix for the cabin, return pipe to heater solenoid valve ( allows water to circulate to the heater matrix when you demand heat inside the car), return pipe to the water pump.
If you find there is water loss irrespective as to the use of the car the fault should be easy to trace because it means that obvious drips should be forming or puddles created in the car. Note that many leaks in the coolant system only begin to show themselves when the engine is hot. The reason for this is that the coolant system in creases in pressure
1) the coolant filler cap is on securely and that it has a good seal - if this leaks the coolant system fails to pressurize and the engine heat will evaporate the coolant or even steam off.
2) The water/coolant pump is common to both circuits and is worked hard. I always start here; if nothing else just to rule it out as it is a fairly expensive part to replace and the replacement procedure is involved. Check the interior of the engine bay for any sign of splash stains on a line perpendicular to the fan blade rotation. If the front seal on the water pump is leaking it dribbles water onto the pump pulley. When the engine is running this water is spread around in an arc like a garden sprinkler by the pulley and fan rotation. If no apparent engine bay stains are apparent look at the 'chin' of the pump for a vertical drip stain. A slow leak here can occur when the engine is running but the heat of the engine causes almost instantaneous evaporation of the evidence. During engine 'warm up' the water leak will leave evidence of itself as a vertical line of brown running down from the pump centre.
3) Having ruled out the pump another quick check, open the oil filler cap. An abundance of 'mayonnaise' on the underside of the cap and around the entrance to the oil filler means an internal water leak and this will require a cylinder head gasket renewal. ouch!
4) Check the radiator for stains front and back, even a tiny pin hole will leave evidence.
5) check that all the hoses are good and that there are no leaks where they are attach and that all jubilee clips are tight and intact.
6) Check the foot-wells of the car for wet carpets - a sure sign that either the heater matrix or the tubes attached to it are leaking behind the dash board is a soggy carpet. Dab a paper kitchen towel to the dashboard under side to locate the leak
7) Again check all the hoses and connections thereof for leaks.
8) Now a final check. The engine must be cold before you start this!!!
Remove the coolant filler cap and top up the coolant to the normal level. Start the engine. Does the water in the coolant filler tank behave really violently and try to bubble out of the filler entrance. If so there is leak into one of the cylinders. This is frequently accompanied by very thick white exhaust gases as a result of steam and burnt glycol antifreeze. The only fix here is to renew the head gasket.
If there is still no sign go over the list again but more thoroughly.. the water has to getting out somewhere. If all else fails take it to your garage and have them pressure test your system. Lack of pressure in the system and leaks are synonymous.
the water drain for the ac system is clogged.
the inside coil gets cold and water drips off of it and needs to drain to the outside.
there should be a drain spout on the outside of the fire wall.
this small drain needs to be cleared.
let me know if this helps
I had the same problem with my truck,ieven took it to a window repair shop while driving home it started to rain lord a behold,I looked on the back sit and it was wet.After all that i found out that the water was comming in from the break lite on top of the roof.all you have to do is take the cover off and replace the seal around the cover because it is worn out or get some sealeant and place it around the inside cover.
It sounds like a plugged drain line from the air conditioner. Most cars now run in the a/c mode whenever u turn on the climate control (even when heat is on). The passenger side front is where it would be wet, and the carpet and carpet pad act like a sponge and will soak up the water. Let me know how u make out.