Temp lights going up to 80 degrees on boiler then dropping down, definately have flow to all rads and they all have trv' s on which seem fine one out of five rads downstairs red hot other one just warm, one out of three hot upstairs boiler making a noise like a spitfire taking off when it starts up
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Hot water is gravity fed through your pipes. When you turn the faucet on the water will flow through the pipes. If your hot water heater is natural gas driven relight the pilot. Same if oil fueled. If electrical, check fuse to see if it has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped. If either has tripped, replace it and if it blows again the heater has a serious failure, you might need to buy a new one. If pilot won't light on gas unit, try relighting after 5 minutes, could be a bad thermocouple.
If the thermostat wire run passes anywhere through, beside or inside any metal surfaces and the wires touch any of the metal its the same as if you turn the stat to on. I've seen this a few times. Easiet way to detect it, if its inside the house is at night in the dark. Look around when its doing this you may see the small spark when it goes on. Otherwise you will need to inspect the entire run from the stat to the untis, etc.
We have just had our old system boiler replaced with a vaillant ecotec plus 837 and sounds like a similar working operation to ours. At first I was a little concerned,but I was told by our installer that he was told by vaillant that these very latest boilers size the system on start up for about 10 mins, then take temperature to target flow which you set boiler at.
So even by setting target flow temperature very high you still get the initial sizing cycle, which ours was about 30-35c temp.
These boilers seem to run biased for efficiency as after a while they modulate the boiler burner down and the radiators run more on the side of warm than really hot like the old type boilers. You also get better efficiency as at lower temperature the boiler condenses better. You will also find you get a more constant temperature in your home rather than over shoots.
I was concerned at first, shame there was no info/explanation in user manual as people do need to know that this is normal operation.
We are used to ours now, took a month and by the way these boilers can make a creaking noise but was told this normal expansion/ contraction but annoying when sited in bedroom cupboard.
Best of luck!
If your posi-temp valve is working correctly this should not be a problem. Does your hot water temp. ever get extremly hot or just warmer? The way the posi-temp cartridge is designed if you have a large drop jn cold water pressure then the inside piston is supposed to slide to the hot side restricting the flow of hot water to a safe level.If the pressure on the hot side drops suddenly then the valve is supposed to restrict cold water flow.
If the temperature gets to a unsafe level you can adjust maximum hot setting by removing the handle. There is a allen head set screw on the bottom of the handle. Loosen screw and pull handle off. On the newer models pull off chrome sleeve from around valve body and slide outer geared disc off enough to seperate from inner gear. There are markings on disc with arrow pointing to h. or c. Adjust outer disc in the direction you want to adjust and slide it back so that gears engage. Each tooth on gears will change water temp. about2-3 degrees.Try it and readjust till you get the hot set point you want. One other thing you could do is install a small pressure tank on cold water line to compensate for pressure changes. Hope yhis helps you. Thanks
you could have a flow problem due to sludge or scale in the boiler, it could be a pump problem as it may not be circulating enough water around the system. or it could be a faulty thermostat if it is not cutting out soon enough.
1st try turning the boiler stat down to its minimum, if it still over heats then it is probably the stat.
if you have a switch on your pump to increase the speed make sure it is on setting 3. if the pump is old then it may be time for a replacement.
i think you will find that instead of modulating as demand requires the boiler is overheating and then re operating after the safety thermostat has operated.
i wilud put some de scaler into the main heat exchanger circuit or add it to the radiators and let it circulate for a while.
also make sure the pump is operating properly to ensure proper water flow.
first check the pilot is alight, it sounds like it is cause you can hear the boiler click. that click is the gas vale solenoid trying to open, if there is 240-230volts at gas valve when you here the click and pilot is alight the gas valve is broken. if you test for voltage look on the gas valve and see if its 240 or 24v obviously if it 24 v check for 24 volts, let me know
If the room is at the set temperature even when the rad are warm the boiler is doing its job. It takes steel rads up to an hour to cool down so if they stay warm to the touch that is normal.It takes steel rads a long time to heat up when they get cold so its cheaper to let them not get real cold.I was told not to put a programmable thermostat on our boiler simply because it takes a lot of gas to bring your house up even two degrees. I run a non programmable and set our heat at 72 degrees and do not touch it all winter. There should be a water shut off on each rad so if you want your bedroom cooler just shut that shut off on that rad off.
the problem there a relay stuck or thermostat bring on the pump & you can lower your high limit aquastat!! also the flow valves can bypass hot hot water risers time to put in a seperate water heater domestic coil are not energy efficient !!!! aquastat high limit set @ 180f deg low limit set @ 140f deg!!!
good luck!!! tim