Question about Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer
DRYER WILL NOT START.LIGHT WILL NOT COME ON. DOOR SWITCH READS GOOD.BREAKER ON. POWER TO DOOR SWITCH.
Same thing as other owners above...Dryer is five years old and is in need of a good cleaning of lint build-up. Model no. PYET444AZW.
I put a large load of clothes, which probably should have been spun again, into the dryer. When I returned the clothes were still basically wet, and the light in the dryer would not come on, and nor would the dryer start.
Tested the circuit breaker. OK. Tested the outlet with a tester pen. OK.
So in searching the internet for a solution, I found and read this string. Found the fuse, called my local appliance parts store and bought a thermal fuse kit for CDN$48 (incl sales tax). Kit came with three fuses.
Just opening the top of the dryer was a chore for a complete novice. However, the entire top is hinged at the back -- so at the front of the machine, just gently poked a slot screwdriver in the gap ringing the sides near the top, twist screwdriver and lift. Big fuse is easily accessible at the top near the back of the drum. It's a round thing about the size of a quarter screwed into a metal frame with two crimped-on wires coming out the top. One screw to removed the frame. Then detached the crimped-on wires, and removed the fuse from the frame with two more screws. You will need a smaller size ratchet or nut-driver.
While you have it apart you might as well change the second nickel-size fuse, too, although it is more of a pain.
You have to remove the coiled elements, which are basically just big springs. They come out with one screw on the right and a little finesse. The second fuse sits on the right-hand side of the metal box surrounding the coiled element. The screw for the coil also held the frame for the fuse in place, but the frame will still be secured to the box with a couple of small tongues. So you will still need to kind of lift and pull up on the frame housing the fuse. It requires some patience and finesse. Remove the crimped-on wires, and change the fuse.
Of the two smaller replacement fuses that came with the kit, there was one marked for a gas dryer and another for electric. (The big fuse was good for both.)
Then start putting it all back together. Took me two hours in all. But now that I have done it once, it would hopefully take me only 30 mins. now.
Finally, my replacement instructions suggested cleaning out your machine and removing the lint and other burdens which probably overloaded the fuse in the first place. So I bought one of those specialized lint brushes to clean out the trap and the exhaust hose and vent.
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
My dryer wouldnt start at all either. i own the maytag model number PYE3300AYW.. i went through the run around of it might be the door switch and tested that it was fine. Then they said maybe the timer...............nope that was fine. Finally a little thermostat fuse that is all the way in the back on the side of the heating element was bad! so i had to take everything apart to get to this fuse that caused my dryer not to start but now it runs perfect!
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
I would start by checking the power to the dryer there should be 110 volts ac from common to L1 and 110 volts ac from common to L2 and 220 from L1 to L2. If you are not familiar with either AC current or a volt meter call a tech. if that is good there is often a high temp safty thermostat some where on the unit. if it doesnt read continuity on your ohm meter than replace the safty thermistat. how ever there is usualy anohter underlying issue. check your venting and make sure it is clear. that is the most common reason for a safty thermo to fail. hope this helps
Posted on Sep 25, 2007
MAYTAG BRAND IS NO LONGER THE QUALITY BRAND THAT IT WAS ONCE. THIS COMPANY BRAND WILL BE LIKE GM AND CHRYSLER. MAYBE IT IS THE YUGO ALREADY. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON MAYTAG APPLIANCES.
Posted on Dec 09, 2010
-Check the power to the dryer (between L1 and L2 should read around 240 V AC, L1 to the White (neutral) should read 120 V AC, L2 to the White should read 120 V AC)
-check the thermal fuse on the right side of the heater assembly (use a continuity meter, should be buzzing or on the Ohm meter "0" Ohm)
if not replace it
-if the thermal fuse was broken, clean and check inside your dryer the went passages and your went pipe is the next thing to blow out.
-if everything looks clean assemble your dryer and ready to rock!
Posted on Jan 14, 2010
It is the little thermo fuse next to the heating element. It keeps the dryer from coming on if it over heats. It is a one time fuse.
Posted on Nov 07, 2007
My dryer does not work at all
Posted on Apr 05, 2008
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