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Elna 683 stitch width

How do I get my stitche width more narrow? I have changed my cutting width but the stitches remain the same width. Thank you

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 7,365 Answers

The information you need should be in the manual, if you don't have a manual then here is a link for one
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-elna-683.aspx

Posted on Oct 31, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
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SOURCE: Elna Carina Zig'Zag Stitch Issue

Over time, and especially when not used, there is a likelihood of dust and old oil forming a sort of glue, or clag....

Remove the needle for safety, then, when you have the setting on Zig zag, gently push the needle arm to the opposite side of the zig stitch.......release the needle arm, and if it springs back quickly, it is fine, if it moves slowly, or almost not at all, then the clag needs removing with application of few drops of methylated spirit to start, at the sort of piston affair that shifts needle arm L & R .....move the needle arm back & forth until it frees up, a drop of oil to finish.........if almost seized, may require leaving overnight after using a penetrating lubricant if it is really resistant....I have had them on the bench for 3 days with manual manipulation a few times each day before they finally come good.

Bargain Box

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Singer Touch Tronic 2001 Sewing Machine Stuck on Sewing Straight Stitch Only

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. I finally figured out that I had the straight stitch needle plate (the one with the single hole), rather than the zig zag needle plate (the one with the curved hole). When I changed plates, it worked fine.

Posted on May 27, 2009

Mongo32
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: not forming stitches

needle in backwards?

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My Elna Supermatic model 722010 now skips stitches.

Take a look through this comprehensive list of
TROUBLESHOOTING
symptoms and possible solutions, it may also be useful for further reference in other times of need.

Check the timing of the needle to the hook. HERE is a guide to generic principles of Timing



Now also take a more specific look at tension issues....
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.

Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

Best Wishes
Martyn
Bargain Box in Australia

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

Zenqi
  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: singer machine needle won't do width in zigzag

It sounds like it needs lubrication on the needle bar frame and linkage.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

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I have a Elna air electronic 68, I am not able to use different function. Like thr preprogrammed.


Your AE 68 will have three dials across the front, from L-R, stitch selector, stitch width and stitch length. To sew any stitch with a sidewise needle movement, you will need to turn the stitch selector to that stitch on the selector, then turn the stitch width to between 3 and 4 and the stitch length to a similar setting, adjusting to get the stitch formation you need. To sew with the discs, set all the dials to zero, then insert a cam into the Elnagraph on top of the machine. Then turn the selector to the disc icon, and the stitch length around to the "S" and stitch width to 4.

Don't use reverse if using the elnagraph stitches.

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What you are looking for is "cutting" width. The adjustment moves the cutting blades in or out, thus increasing or decreasing the seam width.

...

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I have looked but can't see a manual, but looks like push button stitch selection on front of machine, often it will be same as straight stitch, but need to take stitch width from 0 to 4

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Directions for making a buttonhole with an Elna SU


A transcript from the Elna SU manual reads as follows, and the manual can be viewed on line at http://sewingonline.co.uk/instructions/elnasp/

First make a few trial runs with a scrap of material exactly as the buttonhole will be stitched, with the machine adjusted as you intend to use it.
1. Use the embroidery and buttonhole foot. It can be chnged without a screwdriver by using the fixation screw.- With the stitch width knob at "0", turn the selector to zigzag "1".
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3. Set the stitch width knob at 2, with the solid mark on top.
4. Set the stitch length dial between 1/2 and 1/4.
5. a) Mark the desired length on the material.
b) Sew the first side of the buttonhole. Stop with the needle in the material and the mark (right).
c) Raise the foot and pivot the material round the needle. Lower the foot and raise the needle.
6. a) Set the stitch width knob at 4.
b) Sew a few stitches. Raise the needle.
7. a) Set the stitch width knob at 2.
b) Sew the second side and stop just short of the length of the first. Raise the needle.
8. a) Set the stitch width knob at 4.
b) Finish off the buttonhole by sewing a few stitches. Raise the needle.
9. a) Set the stitch width knob at "0".
b) Sew a few stitches to fasten the threads, holding the material back by hand.
10. Open with the buttonhole knife, which you will find in the accessory box.

Oct 12, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

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Stitch width knob


What's the model? Do you have the stitch selector set on straight stitch, or on a stitch with a width component, like a blind hem stitch?
Some machines consider straight stitch to be a zigzag stitch of width=0, while others have separate settings for a straight stitch and a zigzag (or other) stitch.

Feb 11, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

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My elna has cams to upgrade the number of stitches it can do but I am unable to get them to work. I believe I have installed them correctly but cannot activate them.


Throughout the Swiss Elna range there were several of their top of line models that have the black cams for additional stitches and they all have an "Elnagraph" device in the top of the machine case where you insert the cams.

There are single cams where the needle just moves ffrom side to side while the fabric moves forward. And double cams where the needle moves from side to side while the feed dogs move the fabric forward and backwards to get a combination stitch. The trick is to get the Elnagraph to engage so the arm in it can "read" off the disc.

There are a couple of other knobs that you need to adjust to get the cam stitch though.

Star Series: (white machine with blue top) you need to put the stitch selector inside the elnagraph flap to "A" on the Star series and then stitch width to 4 and stitch length to the red A zone.
tally_girl_15.jpg
Air Electronic SU or Carina: you have 3 knobs from left to right - stitch selector (put it on 7) , stitch width (put it on 4, orange area) and stitch length (turn it around to the orange zone for the automatic stitches).

And on the early Supermatic the adjustments are a little different again.

And ALWAYS turn the stitch width and length dials back to zero, before you change the stitch selector, or pop out a cam.

I hope this helps you get your Elna stitching from the cam, there is a great Yahoo group called Elna Heirlooms too where there are lots of knowledgeable Elna owners and some files listing all the cam stitches.

Apr 10, 2011 | Elna Sewing Machines

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The 6 built-in stitches (such as blind stitch, darning stitch, etc.) are not working, they only just do the basic zig zag stitch. Also the cams for decorative stitching do not work either. These are all...


I have the same model, have you turned the first knob on left, the stitch selector, to the stitch you want? Then turn the middle knob, the stitch width to "4". Use the colour guide marks shown in the little picture on left of the knobs so you are dialing up the right settings. So for the zig zag, elastic blind hem, scallop, overcasting and multi-stretch stiches, 1-6 on the diagram you'll be setting the left knob to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 respectively and the stitch width and length knobs to "green", you can vary the length and width to suit what you want.

Then for the cams, you need to set everything zero, turn stitch selector to 7, the cam setting. then turn the width to orange again (3-4) and the stitch lenth selector to the orange setting, right around the knob. This engages the "Elnagraph" the device under the flap on top of the machine to read the discs. Basically the green stitches the needle is swinging from side to side while the feed dogs move the fabric forward, making your zig zags, blind hems etc.
But when you engage the Elna graph, the machine matches stiches by moving the fabric "forward and backwards at certain times, while the needle does its thing from side to side. This is what makes elastic or stretchy type stitches because you are putting "stretch" into the seam by sewing forwards and backwards.

Please note: always turn your stitch width and length back to Zero BEFORE you make any changes to the left knob and select a new stitch as this saves on wear and tear to the moving parts in these wonderful machines.

I do hope this assists you and I haven't just told you stuff you already knew!

Feb 15, 2011 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have a old Elna machine. The air electronic SU 390 B. I have lost the manual and am trying to do buttonholes on a dress. I have forgotten the sequence of nob adjustments to complete the process.


Is this the duplex model with the base that fits into a sewing cabinet?

My Elna booklet lists a SP "air electronic" duplex (CL.39), if so, then it would be same stitches as the 38, yellow front panel, 7 built in stitches and automatic knob with blue markings for buttonholing.

Here is the SU manual images for buttonholing, should be exactly the same for the SP.

tally_girl_4.jpg Instructions are:
use buttonhole foot. turn the 3 dials to buttonhole marked in blue (stitch selection, width and length).
Mark length of buttonhol on the material. Place work under foot with the mark in the middile fo the foot, the start being directly below the needle. sew the first side, raise the needle. Turn stitch width dial to 2, blue. Sew a few stitches for bartack. Raise the needle.
Turn stitch width dial to 3 blue. sew the second side. stop just short of the first side. Raise the needle.
turn the stitch width dial to 4 blue. sew a few stitches for bartack. Raise the needle.
Turn stitch width dial to "fastening off stitch" blue dot. Sew a few stitches, holding back the material by hand. Raise needle, lift pressure foot and remove work, triming off threads.
Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper (put a pin across the end to avoid any nasties).

Aug 26, 2010 | Elna 2007 Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

I want to know which knob I use to make the stitching narrower


there are generally two variable controls .. one adjusts the stitch length (distance between stitches measured in stitches per inch) ... the second is stitch width .. that adjusts how far the zigzag moves left and right .. thats usually just a number from 0 to 10 or so .. 10 would be maximum width .. 0 would be used for straight stitch ..
so you need to adjust the stitch width control to make the stitching narrower .. the controls are called different things on different brand sewing machines .. if you have the brand and model number then there may be instruction booklets available ...

Jan 04, 2010 | Sewing Machines

3 Answers

Have a 1970's elna su supermatic but cams don't work


There are two types of discs - single and double.
For the thinner single discs do as follows:
1.Turn stitch width knob to "0"
2. Turn stitch length knob to "0"
3. Insert the single disc
4. Turn the top selector to "A"
5. Make sure the needle selector is in the centered position.
6. You may now choose any stitch length or width you wish. I usually try "3" for the width and 1/2 for the length to start.

For the thicker double discs do as follows:

1.Turn stitch width knob to "0"
2. Turn stitch length knob to "0"
3. Insert the double disc
4. Turn the top selector to "A"
5. Make sure the needle selector is in the centered position.
6. You may now choose any stitch width.
7. The stitch length must be put on "A" - this is the difference between the single and double discs!
I hope this helps!

Mar 11, 2009 | Elna 1010

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