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What are the disadvantages of a pillar drill?

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I have electric gates and my question is regarding the pillar that the arms are attached to.

Use Hydraulic Cement, rather than regular concrete. Regular concrete mix, sand mix, etc doesn't bond well to existing concrete. As soon as you put some torque on it, the bond breaks. When you dig or chip out the area to be replaced, make it larger at the back than the front. When you fill it with hydraulic cement, the slight expansion of the hydraulic cement will force a tight bond. The brand that I used for years is Rockite by Hartline Products, but there are probably ten others. Most people don't realize that when normal Portland cement cures, it shrinks slightly, which is one of the reasons it doesn't bond well to other concrete... it pulls away. If you look at where railings have been drilled into existing concrete steps, you'll see smooth gray material has been poured in. That is usually hydraulic cement. For a sideways application, you will need to make a form to hold the cement it... it is very liquid when you pour it. I would advise putting your bracket and supports in first, and pouring them in place. Put nuts and washers on the bolts, so the cement has something to grab. Be aware, you have to work fast. From mixing to initial cure is only a minute or two.

Jan 04, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Door henge bent

As I understand it the was open at the time and was forced further open towards the front of the car? I think your door pillar was twisted around. In a new car the body shop might cut out the door pillar and weld in another, but I think that is mot the way here.
What you want is for the door to shut evenly in the body all round. There is a small amount of adjustment available in the door hinge attachment bolts, body side and door side, and in the lock striker plate. See here p23

It may be that a little adjustment in all these would be enough to fix the problem. Try that first.

If not, take the offending door off and look carefully at the A pillar. It does not take much distortion to prevent the door from closing properly. Compare it with the good side, using a long ruler to see where it should line up with the surrounding body. This will give you a target for straightening it.

Then you need a metal bar like this U channel, 2-3 ft long by about 3 in wide.

Hardware shops sell them. Drill holes in one end to match the door hinge bolt holes, and bolt it on to the door pillar, first one hinge then the other. Use it to carefully twist the door pillar back the other way, not too much, using the long ruler as a guide.

This should bring the door pillar back to where the manufacturer's adjustment takes care of the rest.

Dec 19, 2012 | 1999 Toyota Camry

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Idle mixture screw is broken off,leaving just the tip in the carb body.i tried solvent and press,stopped before i made it do i extract them?

I would take the carb off, and with a pillar drill, drill out enough of the broken screw to fit a tapered left hand threaded stud remover and unscrew the porion that is still in the body of the carb. Then replace it with a new one.

Mar 19, 2011 | Yamaha FJ 1100 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Step by step on how to change a drill bit in a pillar drill ? I need to do this for homework and the internet is **** for help. :(

Most drill chucks have a key to tighten them up and to loosen them, some are turned by hand, some have a drift key that gets tapped into a slot to knock out the drill bit that is held in by taper friction. So, which type do you have?

Feb 22, 2010 | Drills

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My yukon rear ac i think! got my rear rear carpet all wet im thinking ac drain plug but dont really know how it works any ideas thanks ronn

The A Pillar is filling up with water and running out the hole where the front kick panel attaches. I took me 6 months to find this and a snake camera from Harbor Freight. The water runs down under the sill and soaks the front and back carpets. Seal the door hinges and the door grommet where the wires go from the pillar to the door with silicone black. Pull out the grommet and seal around it well. I also drilled a drain hole into that cavity just under that pillar but behind the front of the door bottom corner so it cant be seen with the door closed. No more problems!!!

Jan 17, 2010 | 1999 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Replace belt

Sourced the part no and stock number on the Draper site, then sourced the Manual on the Draper site too

Nov 17, 2009 | Drills

1 Answer


Guess they should have re-enforced those...too many are coming off. Not an easy fix but you need to remove the door and have the inside of the pillar re-enforced and welded in place with a heavier gauge insert. I've only seen one person do this in a way that impressed me. He cut a slot in the pillar and slid the insert inside, supported it with a screw placed into a pre -drilled hole (used as a handle), then welded it into the opening. the weld was then ground flat and the hinge was tack welded on top, while still on the door, then door was removed again and weld was completed. A lighter gauge piece was welded over the opening (slot) and then the pillar was re-painted. (looks like factory, wasn't cheap but was very strong.)

Aug 08, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

Automatic seat belt removal and replace with regular seat belts

You'd need to pickup the need parts at the junkyard. You'll need the "A" to "B" pillar trim, lower "B" pillar trim, front seat belts and seatbelt giude from a 1995 SC1 or SC2.

The treaded hole in the frame of the car where the track of the automatic seatbelt assembly attaches is in a slightly different place than the three point system. Its not a problem though. You just need to drill a 3/4" hole slightly above the existing hole in the trim panel. The existing hole is hidden by the seatbelt and not noticable at all.

Everything else pretty much bolts or snaps into place.

I've done this swap on several 1991-1994 Saturn S-Series.

Jan 08, 2009 | 1992 Saturn SC

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