Question about Delta Saws
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Go to Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of the page towards the bottom type in your model number. It will take you to another page and click on the first JT160 and when it changes screens click on the instruction manual, I had to click on it a couple times to open it but I did look at and it is about 48 pages long. Let me know if you have any problems and I will check further
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
go to Dewaltservicenet.com and type in your model number in the bottom of the page the manual is 56 pages long. If I have helped you would you please rate this response accordingly.
Posted on Feb 17, 2010
Your Delta radial arm saw (RS830) manual is here. Exploded diagram for parts, etc is here.
I'm not sure on the Rockwell, but here's a link to a manual for a Rockwell-Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Unisaw, circa 1969 which seems about right for a 34-466.
If that's not quite right, there a couple other manuals for old Rockwell saws here.
If this answer helped, please vote. Thanks!
Posted on Jun 14, 2010
This sound like a bad commutator in the motor - if you're lucky then it's just the brushes. As the motor turns, the brushes push against metal contacts on the commutator. The brushes provide an electrical path to the commutator. The commutator is a bunch of electro magnets (remember wrapping wire around a nail and putting electricity to it to make a magnet? that's what's on the commutator). So as the motor turns, the brushes connect to different contacts - but if that contact is bad, then no electricity can flow. So the first contact may be good (30 degrees of the motor works fine), but the second contact is bad (30 degrees of the motor turned off), then the third contact is good (30 degrees of the motor back to fine again).
You can try to fix this if you're mechanically inclined and want to take the motor apart. Remove the motor entirely from the jointer. Open both ends of the motor (usually 3 or 4 really long screws going through the motor to join the ends). The brushes are usually spring loaded and can shoot out, so go slowly and look inside while you open it up. The brushes should be at least 1/2 inch long (if they are shorter than that then replace them). Also look for sawdust - if your motor is jambed full of sawdust you may just need to clean it out.
Once you have the motor fully apart - the commutator is that bulk of the shaft, with lots of wire wrapped around it, and one end having metal contacts (where the brushes ride). Examine the contacts closely - if one is bad (broken or missing) then you HAVE to get a new motor - no way around it. However, when they put the contacts onto the shaft, they use lots of epoxy/glue. This is what is between the contacts (from side to side). As the brushes move around on the contacts, they also ride on the glue - this can "smear" the glue from between the contacts to actually cover the contacts. If this is the case you can use 600 grit sandpaper to clean the contacts. I would also cut the glue between the contacts so it sits lower than the contact surface (take an old hack saw blade and brake it in half - the width of a hack saw blade is usually the same width as the distance between the contacts - lightly saw the glue between the contacts until it's lower than the contact surface).
While the motor is apart, check the bearings - if the bearing are bad, the shaft can "flop" back and forth and might make the brushes skip over a contact. If it's a bearing you can usually get a number off of the side of the bearing and find new ones (search for the part number on google - bearing are about $2-$4).
I'd also check the belt the goes from the motor to the jointer shaft - I like those powertwist belts because they don't deform and induce vibrations.
Posted on Dec 17, 2010
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