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The low voltage brownout let the oven draw too much current, and likely an internal fuse failed. Typically after removing a dozen Philips screws you can take off the cover and locate the fuse, which you can match and replace. [If it still has "power" (like the lights come on) but has stopped heating, then it could be any number of other issues (main capacitor fail, etc)] I've changed a fuse or two in my day, and years ago a failed capacitor, with success.
In all likelihood the mangnetron has failed, or perhaps even the Power Supply. or a fault that is shutting the system down for safety reasons You need to have it serviced by a reputable service centre/man.
Ensure you get a firm "Quote" before proceeding, and remember these days the cost of repair can equal or exceed the price of a new one.
It doesn't work at allIf your microwave oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these:FusesDoor switchFusesUsually, when your microwave oven doesn't work it all, the internal fuse (thermal fuse) is blown. This fuse protects both you and the oven. When it blows, you need to have a qualified appliance repair technician replace it.Door switchIf the fuse isn't the problem, check the door hooks and the door-release button. When these are broken, the door switch doesn't activate, so the oven can't work.It sounds normal, but there's no heatWhen the microwave sounds okay, but there's no heat, one of the internal door switches, the high voltage circuitry, or the circuit board may have a problem. To resolve this problem, you need the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
First...what do you hear? Is there any activity at all? If not and the light doesn't work and there is no panel indication...the problem is the inbound circuit. If all appears to be working and the unit isn't heating, the first guess is the internal fuse or the over temperature sensor. With the plug out, remove the control panel and have a look inside. There is generally a fuse which controls most things. With a circuit tester, you may be able to locate and test the temp sensors. They are black, about the diameter of a dime and about 3/8 inch thick. Generally, they are fitted to the metal near the oven side. The sensor should show continuity. If not, replace it. Generally, only one blows at a time. There are other possibilities...start here. Remember: internal voltages up to lethal levels exist when the unit is set to operate.