Question about Amana NFW7300WW Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, well NO it's not the motor and there are no diodes inside the motor, thats not actually the way they in which they are made to rotate and reverse direction.
This is done by "Driving" the motor with a pulse width modulated signal, that makes the motor spin,as the electricity is switched from pole to pole the motor's stator is attracted to that pole and moves forwards or backwards depending on the direction of the waveform.
So whenever a motor isn't working, spinning, then most often if the motor works, as it actually appears your is OK, then the "Controller' is at fault. The controller in this case is the Main Controller Board. This must be replaced in it's entirety. If you wish to DIY, then please find below a service and repair manual, to use to try and track down exactly whats wrong...
service and repair manual above..
But you see these days, it is nearly always my professional opinion that one should always get a "Quote" from the manufacturers recommended service center,Anma in your case, please contact a local or head office and ask for a referral to an Authorised service center. I cannot stress how important that last point is. It is even worth the cost of shipping. You see an authorised service agent, will have trained staff, trained on their brand, also they have first hand access to parts, original parts. This will actually save you money and ensure you can actually get it back fixed. Of course asking for a "Quote" also gives on the option of repair or replace. Often my clients,do not go through with repair, unless it is moderate, but in some of the more costly jobs they see it, as do i, that a replacement, with a warranty, is a better option.
Posted on Apr 05, 2011
first unplug washer then there are 4 half inch bolts on the motor holding it to the frame take those out unplug the motor harness. then twist it out you may have to take the hoses off. then there are 3 torxs screws in the pump take them out and put new belt on same way you took off and then reverse the steps and you will be ok
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
you may have a bad bearing in a pulley,could be motor coupling. Take belt off and spin motor shaft and pulley both ways if it's free, then its more than likely not the motor. Now spin the drum with belt off and see if it does the same as with the belt on if it does it has to be a bad bearing or coupling to the drum. hope this helps
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for your input. I'll look into it. If the problem is a bearing, is it an easy fix or should I start saving for a new washer?"
That is the drive coupler and it has worn out. You can order a replacement set that comes with two plastic retaining pieces that slide onto both your transmission and engine and also a rubber piece that goes in between these two plastic pieces. You can search many places to find out how to replace this part. I just ordered a set and shopped around a bit and mine was $20 after shipping.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
A centrifugal switch to allow the motor to start up on the start winding and once started it opens to take it out of the start winding. The motor has to have voltage applied to the start winding and the run winding at the same time in order for the motor to start. The capacitor is part of the start circuit. When the motor goes to start, the voltage must be applied to the start winding in order for the motor to start or it will just hum. The moment the motor reaches a certain RPM the centrifugal switch opens up to remove the start voltage to the motor and it will remain running on the run winding. The motor will not start up on run voltage alone. It needs both, the start voltage and run voltage. I think the problem is that the motor is not getting the start voltage supplied to the motor or the start winding has opened up in the motor.
A centrifugal switch to allow the motor to start up on the start winding and once started it opens to take it out of the start winding. The motor has to have voltage applied to the start winding and the run winding at the same time in order for the motor to start. The capacitor is part of the start circuit. When the motor goes to start, the voltage must be applied to the start winding in order for the motor to start or it will just hum. The moment the motor reaches a certain RPM the centrifugal switch opens up to remove the start voltage to the motor and it will remain running on the run winding. The motor will not start up on run voltage alone. It needs both, the start voltage and run voltage.
I think the problem is that the motor is not getting the start voltage supplied to the motor or the start winding has opened up in the motor.
Posted on Oct 24, 2011
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possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors
due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program
controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN
pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from
the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the
water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the
voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no
voltage from the controller. This means
the controller is a suspect.
water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the
inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the
inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL
SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level
to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is
most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must
be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for
rinse and wash.
pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8
link to replace the inlet valve:
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