MODEL # JGBP35BEA9BB
THE TOP BURNERS SOMETIME PULSE, THE OVEN PULSES BAD, TAKES FOREVER TO COME TO TEMP, HAVE CHECKED THE GAS LINE FOR WATER, NO PROBLEM THERE, THE BURNER IN THE OVEN HAS A BLUE FLAME BUT VERY SHORT (2 INCHES). IT WILL COME ON AND GO OFF SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE FINALLY STAYING ON. COULD IT BE THE REGULATOR AT THE GAS LINE HOOK UP?? IT HAS WORKED FINE FOR SEVERAL YEARS BEFORE THIS PROB CAME UP. THANKS, MIKE
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Re: GEXL44 RANGE FLAME PULSES
Sounds like the regulator.look at it and see if it has a nut on it.if it does remove the nut and turn the unit on.if the problem cleared up clean out the nut (its called the vent and theres a little ball inside) if it doesnt work replace the regulator.if the units propane make sure all the burner orfices are cleaned.propane burns dirty.
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All ovens have a safety valve. On that valve is a orifice which is adjustable. It is below the burner and just below the air shutter. All replacement valves come cranked all the way down for propane. So all valves must be adjusted. You use a 7/16th wrench and turn the nut slowly while watching the flame on the flame spreader and the ideal setting is halfway up the spreader but no more. if the flame is more than that then the bottom of your food will be burned. If it is less than that then you will hae the condition you describe above. Another thing to look at is the oven glow bar amp draw. If it is dim orange it is probably bad and slowly going out. Should be very bright, so bright you cannot look at it long. Tapping on the oven safety valve can make kick on. Replace the ignitor if that is the case. If this is a DSI model you might just have a bad or contaminated ignitor. The ignitor does 2 functions, verifys flame is present and light the flame. if it gets junk on it it will act up. Cleaning the rod with sandcloth or simply replacing it will fix the problema. Looking at your model i see yours has a simple glowbar. If it does not draw 3.5 amps it is bad. A noticable indication of a bad glowbar is it is dim orange. It should be very bright hard to look at for long.
When increasing the temp. on a gas range the oven's burners do not increase flame size as the cooktop burners do. It just keeps the burner lighted for a longer amount of time.
First if you can see the burners do they light within about a min. or less. If no you probably have bad igniters which are not lighting the burners as quickly as they should or they are "opening up" (stops working) when they get too hot. In this case replacement of the igniters should solve the problem.
Second if it lights quickly but still takes a while to heat; you want to look at the burners to ensure that the flames are down both sides of the burner tube and not dancing around too much. If only part of the two sides of the burner tubes are lighted then a pluged orifice or burner tube is the most likely cause. Once cleaned it should work fine.
As with anything mechanical there are numurous possiblities for something not working correctly and above are the two most popular reasons that come to my mind.
This sounds a lot like a defective pressure regulator.
If you do not have one externally connected, then the internal regulator is faulty.
If internal, it shouldn't be too difficult to DIY.
Just make sure the pressure rating is the same as the one that has failed.
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
Probably need to replace the igniter. Swap the broil and bake igniters and see if the problem follows the igniter. I just had this happen to mine. Glow bar/igniter appeared to be working properly but was weak causing the regulator valve circuit to keep the flames very low. Swapped ingiters as instructed and problem went with the bad igniter to the broil/top burner.
Check voltage to gas valve in the back of the boiler compartment. It is way in the back on the left hand side, turn on the top burners. If you do not get any volts or only 1 to 5 volts you will need to replace, It is supposed to have 24 volts to operate correctly
oven never lights , but shows its on,? never heats past 100 deg?? soundslike a bad bake ignitor to me take down the model number and order a bake ignitor, installs on the bake burner, under the floor of oven, with just a few screws and 2 wires.