Question about Maytag MSD2456G Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had a simular problem - it is EASY to fix once you know what it is. "They" don't tell you that you should clean out the drain once a year..."they" would rather you call a repair man. Empty out the freezer side and remove the bottom panel inside the freezer. If you don't know how to do this google your fridge type and model number and you should be able to find directions to do so. In the very bottom is a drain that can get clogged with ice. Using a hair dryer and hot/warm water melt and gently break away all the ice. Poor hot/warm water over it till completely thawed out. What is supposed to happen with this drain is moisture is supposed to go to a pan under the fridge and evaporate. When it is clogged the water spills out onto the floor. If I can do this anyone can. I was about 50 years old and a woman when I first did this.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
Your freezer has a drain that leads to the exterior drain pan beneath the unit. Occasionally this drain can become clogged resulting in standing water inside your freezer,due to line freeze over. This can, also, cause a run-off, as stated in your post. In the freezer, standing water will become ice and may result in defrost problems or inadequate coldness.
You will need to Clear the drain by forcing a solution of water and bleach or water and baking soda into the drain line with a basting syringe. If the solution will not flow through, slide a length of ¼ inch flexible tubing into the drain tube to push the clog through to the drain pan. Remove the tubing after clearing the clog. This will correct the issue.
The drain is located either on the floor of the refrigerator, beneath the vegetable crisper, or in the wall behind a drain funnel.
NOTE_It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.
Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the door may not be aligned with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is level from front to back.
If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are bolts that can be turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your fingers, use a crescent wrench or pliers.
If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the refrigerator. An ice-maker that is out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer. It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting it for level and then re-tightening the screws.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
There is a pan and drain hose under the freezer coil that is there to catch any water when the freezer goes into defrost. I feel strongly that is where you will find your leak.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 20, 2010
We had this model as well. It is part of the fridges 'defrost system' that prevents icing up in the freezer. I had replaced the computer chip in mine (at a cost of about 150 bucks), when at one point when it failed, and the freezer starting freezing over, and after it was 'fixed', it started leaking water onto the floor again. After another year, we finally bought another fridge. Solution... buy another fridge
Posted on Jun 06, 2010
SOURCE: I have a maytag MSD2756GEW
Water leak-The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer at the bottom of the rear cover.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Apr 20, 2011
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