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Model 3060L It stops at various spots going up and down and then sometimes it works fine. No obstructions, lubed the screw and it is not binding.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: in colder weather the garage door stops when opening half way.

I had the same problem when it was cold the door would only raise a few inches and I had to keep pushing the opener numerous times before it would raise all the way.
On the back of the opener where the wires are connected there are 2 adjustment screws, one for up pressure and one for down. I increased the up screw and now it rsises all the way. Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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Try manually disconnecting the door and run the mechisim up and down using the opener..see if it runs the entire length up and down... If it does it most likey the door or its mechinism is binding...good luck

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200 GMC Safari Drivers window. The window will go up and down and then it will just stop working. I have to wait a few minutes before I can get it to work again. I was thinking is was the a loose wire but...


there may be binding in the regulator, lube all moving parts and rubber channels with a silicone lube. if that doesnt help. you need a new motor.

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When backing up the wheels seem to be locking and getting stuck makes a horable noise my husband put new drums on and still the same thing is it a sensor or something


no its not a sensor, check all brake hardware on the wheels that are binding. look for a broken or missing spring, broke or missing pins that hold shoes on. its the brake shoes that are locking on you when backing up and they seem fine going forward. dont forget to check the self adjuster for free movement screw in and out, if they are tight take off and lubricate/clean so they screw freely.

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My driver side window goes down fine but get stuck going up. is the motor bad or the lift regulator?


Its usually the window motor itself, quite often the window tracks and channels are dry and cause the motor to work harder and eventually tire out. If it attempts to go up then quits it usually pops the circuit breaker inside the window motor because its overworking and draws to many amps (pops breaker). It will attempt to work after a few seconds when circuit breaker cools and closes again. Apply some silicone based lube to the window tracks and channels, and try the window again. If it works you will eventually need a motor. The regulator usually displays binding condition in one specific spot when window going up or down, if its always the same spot it quits then it could be binding in the regulator.

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2007 passat. key stuck in ignition


the problem with the VW ignition these days is the wafers inside the ignition switch are prone to splitting and spring failure,, this causes the waffers to jam/lock against the key. sometimes it's just a sticky wafer that is binding on the key. you can try and squirt a little lube down the ignition along side the key and wiggle the key up and down and kinda side to side and see if this frees it up ( NOTE : do not use a lot of lube -- just a little bit,, you are not trying to drown the switch ). also try and use the handle end of a screw driver and give the key a slight tap on the head,, this may snap the wafer back into place. if none of these ideas work - your best bet is to take the car to your local automotive locksmith and they will be able to pop the switch out and re-build the ignition switch ( internally ) -- they may also just remove the troubled wafer(s) that are causing the binding --- this will depend on the cuts of your key ( high and low cuts right next to eachother ).
( again --- do not use a lot of lube and I would recommend using a Teflon* based lube such as Tri-flow* or LPS* ).

c...

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My mountain bike has a disc brake problem......... when I sqeeze my front disc brake,it locks my front wheel... though I stop the brake ,it still locks the wheel temporarily........ ...


3 possible issues:

1) the cable is not moving through the housing freely. There could be a burr, a bend, a worn end or just simply rust in the housing and that is binding the cable up, not allowing for the return spring to happen and essentailly stick closed. Rock and Roll cable magic lube is the a great solution for the sticking cable. If it is bent or the end is worn then you need to replace.

2) The springs on the actual brake are binding. There should be an adjustment knob on the brakes to adjust the tension. If this does not work, then check the cable binding again.

3) The pads and/ or springs have some sort of problem. You can remove the pads and springs, clean and replace and see if the pads themselves are just sticking.

If none of these solutions work then you will need to go into a bike shop and have the mechanic look at it. You may have a broken part somewhere in the brake or lever or both.

Good luck, my guess is it is just sticking and cleaning the pads and lubing the cable will get it to stop sticking. By the way any bicycle lube will work down the cable, the Rock and Roll is just a special cable lube for sticky situations.

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Don't know if this helps. Had squeel in belt area. Occasionally engine would stop when squeel got loud and sometimes engine would try to quit while going at various speeds. Found tensioner pulley was bad and changed it. Still squeeled and engine would stop when squeel got loud. This time while sitting in yard. Further checking found binding in power steering pump. Will be putting on new one tomorrow. Hope it works. Will update.

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