Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken lid switch. The lid switch is located under the washer top on the right hand side. It is activated through a slot by a small plastic piece on the lid called a "lid strike". Make sure the lid strike is still installed and not broken. Make sure the lid switch itself is not loose, as well. There are two mounting screws along the washer tub opening that hold it in place. If the screws become loose the switch will not make contact with the lid strike when the lid is closed. If you need to replace the switch or lid strike, the parts are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Washer Top and Lid" heading on the next page. The lid switch is listed as item number 22 (part #3355806) and the lid strike is listed as item number 16 (part #358684). Both parts combined will cost you about $30. If you have further questions and/or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 22, 2008
The symptoms you describe are typical of a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually located on the right hand side under the cabinet. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the right side of the wash tub opening. Make sure the lid strike is still on the lid and intact, first. Then, check the mounting screws that hold the lid switch in place (two screws along the tub rim on the right hand side). Often all that is required is to tighten up the mounting screws and this will realign the lid switch where it can be properly activated by the lid strike. If the lid switch is broken, you can find a replacement at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number and look under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. The lid switch is listed as item number 11 (part #3949247) and the lid strike will be listed as item number 20 (part #358684). If you do not wish to order online, take the part numbers provided by Sears and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are common parts that most will carry in their store inventory. The following link explains how to replace the switch:
This is a very inexpensive repair that you can easily accomplish on your own. I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.
PS This is a common problem experienced by this line of washing machines. To prevent future failures, do not slam the washer lid or place anything heavy on the lid. Repeatedly slamming the lid to get it to work, or manipulating the timer can can more potential problems.
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
The most common cause of machines stopping mid cycle is not draining. Your machine should have a filter behind the kick plate at the bottom.
If this is not the case please post back for further assistance.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
SOURCE: Machine stops with SE code
That code (5E, not SE) means the drainage is clogged. The code appears after 15 minutes of trying to drain the tube (not sure that´s the word, may be turbine, barrel...). check the lateral filter (a big plastic twist-off cap) for any solid that may be clogging the drainage
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
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