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Ge sidebyside freezes fresh food..replaced damper, thermostat,sensors...coils get frosty..now what

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Probably heating element in freezer is broken.
Remove power and defrost. Remove wall panels in back of freezer to Check heater element behind panels With ohm meter should read 20 ohms or less. You could remove it and bring it to a local repair shop and have them test it and if required order you a new one. If this does not work it may be the control board

Posted on Nov 07, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My refrigerator leaks in to

Thermostat is not functioning as it should cycle. The thermostat isn't shutting down the compressor when the set temperature has been met.But if thermostat is checked out ok then its faulty defrost timer.The timer located beside the compressor in the fridge section.

The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the refrigerator section and the refrigerator section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. ----------- (a) the damper is broken or stuck in the open position, allowing cold air to flow endlessly from freezer into fridge compartment; or (b) thermistor(thermostat) in fridge compartment is disconnected or malfunctioning. It has to be replaced.-----------

you can get the required parts from online sites like:---

www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.---------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Mar 03, 2011

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FRIDGE button is set on 3, red light flashes, air system works but it is not cool for at least 1 hour, Freezer set on 4 S and works.


Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermistor and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it. Then make sure all the vents are clear and not being blocked by food cartons. One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem
If you find this helpful, a vote with the thumbs up would be appreciated for the free advice

Jul 13, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I am getting power and the freezer appears to be working but the fridge is not cold at all, any suggestions? Many thanks Dave McRae


Hi Dave and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly,

Take a look in the back of the freezer compartment. Look for any signs of icing on the back access cover. Usually but not always the evaporator coils freeze up because the unit is not automatically defrosting properly or there is a problem with the evaporator fan not running fast enough / at all. Press gently with your hand of the back cover of the freezer compartment and feel for ice. Also check the front of the chassis for signs of being HOT. It is ok to be warm not hot.
Also check to see that the light goes on and off as you actuate the light switch plunger. Some units have the door switch in the top of the door hinge but most have the switch in the door fold area of the chassis some where.

If you find that the evaporator coils have iced up:
  • Perform a manual defrost of the unit but first unplugging it
  • Remove the freezer contents
  • Direct an external fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hrs. (makes a water mess)
  • After 2 hrs clean up the water mess and return the unit to normal service.
  • Watch after 3 days if the fresh food compartment once again starts warming up. If it does you have and automatic defrosting problem.
No ice noted:
  • Possible temp control problem (Thermostat / cold control or thermistor)
  • Possible Air Damper problem. There are 2 kinds of air dampers. One is electrically controlled and the other is nothing but a mechanical baffle that is positioned partially open. If you have the electrical type the air damper motor may have failed or the movable baffle is stuck.
Front of chassis is almost HOT to the touch vs warm:
  • Open the back of the unit by removing the black fiberboard cover and inspect for lint and that the condenser fan is running anytime the compressor is running.
Light always on:
  • Door switch failure. Some door switches also control the evaporator fan along with water in door and ice in door functions. The water and ice in door should NOT work with the door open.
The above is pretty much an in home repair techicians check list for the symptom you describe.
If you discover that you have an automatic defrosting problem I will need you MAKE & MODEL number via your next response here so I can tell you what you can do to troubleshoot. (
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 28, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Food in the refrigerator department is freezing. I checked the refrigerator temperature setting and it is 46 deg f. I checked the freezer temperature setting and it is 5 deg f. I put a NIST traceble...


Hello,

When the refrigerator side is getting too cold this is because the control of the compressor has gone bad in some way...

There a few different things that could cause the unit to lose control over the temperature of the fridge side.

If your refrigerator has a damper door that opens and closes to allow cold air to move to the fridge side the damper linkage or the damper motor may have broken or gone bad.

The coils in your fridge may have frozen over and now the air does not move at all so then the ice builds up and can freeze parts of the fridge side.

The thermostat has gone bad and so now the compressor runs continually. This will not be noticed readily on the freezer side but will show up quickly on the fridge side.

Many newer model refrigerators use an electronic sensor or thermistor to read the temperature and supply the info for the circuit board and often a digital readout.

So, here is how I would go about troubleshooting this problem.

Check the coils for ice, defrost the coils with a heat gun or hairdryer, then check for the reason why they iced over. Defrost control or defrost timer bad? Evaporator fan bad?

Check the damper door to see if it is stuck in the open position. If it is then check the motor and the linkage.

Check to see if the refrigeration unit will shut down if the thermostat or digital setting is turned up to a higher temperature. If it continues to run then find the cause and fix it. It may be a bad thermostat, sensor, or control board.

Sometimes with a change is weather to a cooler climate this will be enough to also affect the inside temperatures. Make sure that a bit of adjustment in the thermostat or setting of the temperature will not solve your problem very simply.

I hope the above helps.

Good luck.

Jan 13, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore Gas Range model # 362.75491990 F3 error Oven will not hold temp - error message displays and beeps I Replaced the oven temp sensor same issue Is the control panel bad?


Hi,

Many models of the GE microwave have sensors that can detect humidity from the foods you are cooking. This allows the microwave to make adjustments to the power levels used to cook your food. If "Sensor Error" appears, you should either press "Clear" to cancel the mode or leave the food in the appliance longer to give the microwave more time to detect the food.

Press "Time Cook" to manually enter the time if you receive an error message when trying to use the "Sensor Reheat" mode of your GE microwave. The error message may be caused by the food item being too large or too small to detect.

these are some other code error that will help you in case of next time.

  1. Step 1 Press "Off/Cancel" (or "Cancel/Off" depending on your model) to clear the error code. Note the code if it reappears.
  2. Step 2 Replace the touchpad if the code displayed is "F0," "F7" or "F10." A function key is stuck or shorted.
  3. Step 3 Replace the touchpad or the clock (ERC) if the code "F1" is displayed. Disconnect the ribbon connector to the touchpad. If no code is displayed after an hour, replace the touchpad. If the code displays again, replace the clock.
  4. Step 4 Replace the oven temperature sensor if "F2," "F3" or "F4" is displayed. "F2" indicates the oven temperature is too hot and the oven temperature sensor is suspect. "F3" or "F4" indicates the oven temperature sensor or shorted or open.
  5. Step 5 Replace the ERC if "F5," F6" or "F8" is displayed. The ERC is the main control unit. "F5," F6" and "F8 are codes that indicate problems in the ERC functions.
  6. Step 6 Inspect the door-lock assembly and circuit if "F9" is displayed. The door must lock when the oven is in use. If the lock mechanism is not functioning or if the detection circuit is malfunctioning, the stove will display "F9."


jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){ var $this = jQuery(this); $this.find('img').error(function(){ jQuery(this).remove(); $this.remove(); }); }); NOTE:


"F3" codes mean your oven temperature sensor has failed or shorted out. The only thing you can do is to replace the sensor.

Take care.

May 11, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Error message SE


Hello :

Many models of the GE microwave have sensors that can detect humidity from the foods you are cooking. This allows the microwave to make adjustments to the power levels used to cook your food. If "Sensor Error" appears, you should either press "Clear" to cancel the mode or leave the food in the appliance longer to give the microwave more time to detect the food.

Press "Time Cook" to manually enter the time if you receive an error message when trying to use the "Sensor Reheat" mode of your GE microwave. The error message may be caused by the food item being too large or too small to detect .


I hope this will help you .

please rate !

Mar 29, 2010 | Frigidaire Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

GE Spacemaker microwave oven - Sensor error


Hello :

Many models of the GE microwave have sensors that can detect humidity from the foods you are cooking. This allows the microwave to make adjustments to the power levels used to cook your food. If "Sensor Error" appears, you should either press "Clear" to cancel the mode or leave the food in the appliance longer to give the microwave more time to detect the food.

Press "Time Cook" to manually enter the time if you receive an error message when trying to use the "Sensor Reheat" mode of your GE microwave. The error message may be caused by the food item being too large or too small to detect
..


good luck .

please rate !

Mar 29, 2010 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

2 Answers

GE side by side Model GSS25JFMD 2 yrs old. Original problem was not staying cold. now I see if I unplug for half hour it seems to work right but sometimes freezes in fridge . I'm hearing a clicking sound...


Looks like a thermostat problem. The condensor is running but unable to stop when it should. It is the thermostat that should shut it off.

This is a very sophisticated fridge/ freezer and with electronic controls.

There is not much diagnostic you can do yourself other than replacing parts. If you are not comfortable with this type of equipment you should call the professional.

Good Luck.

Feb 27, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

GE microwave oven Spacemaker Moldel / will not warm food


the most likley problem is the magnetron has gone bad.but there are a couple of thermal sensor in the cabinet that need to be checked. one of those could be bad as well.

Feb 25, 2010 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

2 Answers

Cuts out everytime you put food in, any mode any food, then displays sensor on panel displayed. May run for a few seconds then cuts again Rob.


Hi there,

It could be either the magnetron thermostat or the cavity thermostat would be faulty, depending on the microwave but in most cases it would be a thermostat.
First of all you can try cutting the power to the unit for 5 minutes, then retry it.
Call 800-626-2005 GE costumer care You will probably need to provide your serial number when you call so be sure you have that ready.

Good Luck!!

Thanks

Oct 16, 2009 | GE Profile Spacemaker Over-the-Range...

1 Answer

Cold air from outside coming in house through vent


Sounds like your damper (flap) outside is working, and that's probably the first thing to check. Wind may be also pulling the damper open from time to time. Hopefully the pipe fitting is sealed, and the pipe is insulated anywhere it runs through any unheated portion of the house. Some amount of cold air getting in will be unavoidable. The best bet next might be to look over the two pages in the installation instructions that deal with outside venting. If you don't have the installation instructions, you can get a copy here: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/ Then if you don't notice any obvious problems with the installation, it may be time to contact the installer for their two cents.

Feb 05, 2007 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

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