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The water does not exit out of the container also

The water does not exit out of the container also how much air pressure must there be in the container for it to work please help

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Tell me more of what your problem is?
To get water OUT of a Hot Water Heater, you have to push COLD water in-- So the water pressure in the house water system is the moving force that moves Cold water thru the heater, and comes out at the Hot Water Faucet, HOT!
Tell me more what you problem is?
Mack B

Posted on Oct 16, 2013

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I have very low water pressure.


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Water Pressure your service pipe must contain some impurities which have blocked the outlet pipe of water, check the pipe if water pressure is not coming upto the mark....

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How to change out copper piping from release valve


If the release valve referred to is the pressure release valve, then a water leak out the attached vent pipe is an indication that the valve is failing. To change the valve, the water must be allowed to cool (turn off AC power or gas) and the water level inside the tank must be lowered (drained) to below the level of the pressure relief valve. Once this is accomplished the vent pipe is unscrewed from the relief valve and the pressure relief valve is unscrewed from the water tank. A new pressure relief valve with a sealant on the threads, is then screwed and tightened into place with the outlet port facing downward. The vent pipe is attached to the new valve and the tank refilled with water. A hot water facet must be opened to allow air to exit while filling. Upon becoming full (water will begin to flow from facet), turn off the facet and restore AC power or gas, therefore allowing the water heater to heat up. When the first hot water is utilized there may be some air expelled from the facet.

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Water leaks continuously out the over flow from the geyser hot water system


You could have excessive inlet water pressure , or bad valve .

Feb 24, 2013 | Water Heaters

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Low water pressure


1) Copy following link for troubleshoot walk-thru:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

2) Yes. Remove the heat-trap inserts from water heater.

3) Add comment and say where you are so far.

Dec 30, 2012 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I am losing water pressure, but only on the hot side. Cold pressure is fine, as you add hot the pressure fades, the hotter the less pressure. This is at all points in the house. The water heater was...


You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.
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Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
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Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Jan 19, 2011 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

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Hello,


The pressure tank psi may be too high. To set it you get the system to pressure up and stop then check that water pressure. Whatever that is, is what the tank should be set at. Too much air pressure and the water pressure will suddenly drop before the pump kicks in.
To set the tank properly turn off the pump, drain all water pressure, then set the air pressure in the tank to the same as the water pressure was. Turn it back on and check again.

Apr 14, 2017 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Pressure keeps dropping but never goes below bout 0.8 of a bar?


Should stlll work ok at that. Most have a 0.5 bar limit but a few will work below
Check the pressure relief valve for water coming out where it exits to the outside

Oct 08, 2009 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Water pump cycles to often. When pump turns on, pressure gauge shoots up to 50 lbs right away without pumping much water.


Sounds like a well fed system with a pressure tank that has lost its air charge. Check for a water tank with a tire pressure type stem fitting, should also have a pressure gauge. Most newer tanks have a rubber diaphram inside to keep the air and water from mixing, but a lot of older ones don't and the newer ones will develope a leak that will produce the simpoms you describe. Try adding a few pounds of air pressure to the top of the tank and check for leaks. Warning: Compressed air can escape explosivly if the tank is badly rusted out but if your water pressure goes to 50# without the tank leaking, it should be safe to add up to 25# of air. The air charges the water system and allows the pump to shut off until enough water is used to lower the pressure back to set points on the control switch. It's not a good idea to adjust the set points on the switch unless all parts in the system have been checked for safety to the new pressures.

Aug 13, 2009 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Combi Boiler pressure gauge reading 0, and radiator half on!


The first thing you need to do is to put some more water into your heating system. This is usually done by allowing water from your (pressurised) domestic cold water supply to flow into the system: On older boilers, this is done with a connection (often made with a removable hose) on the pipework just outside the boiler. Newer boilers may have a built-in connection with some sort of removable link (sometimes looks like a plastic key).

Once you've got the boiler up to working pressure (typically about 1 bar - 15 psi), you should be able to bleed your upstairs radiator properly.

This may be all it takes, though the pressure excursions you're getting when you run the hot tap suggest there may be another problem. See what happens to the pressure as the boiler heats up and cools down. There really ought to be very little pressure difference between the two conditions. If you see significant changes, this usually means that the "pressure vessel" (or in hydraulic terms, system accumulaor) has lost its air charge.

The pressure vessel is a metal container inside the boiler, usually painted in red enamel. Somewhere near the top, you will find a schrader valve (like the one on a car tyre), and you can use this along with a tyre pump to replenish the air in the top of the vessel. This will reduce your pressure transients for a while, but you need to keep an eye on it. If the problem returns, you probably need to replace the pressure vessel (or clag another one into the plumbing alongside the boiler).

A.

Feb 03, 2009 | ACCO Brands Water Heaters

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