Question about Janome Sewing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I am having trouble trying
Have you changed the needle(s) recently in your overlocker? I would put in a new sharp size 70 for satin, turn down the stitch length a fraction, put the blade about middle of its range, thread tensions all to 5 and test serge. Then adjust the two looper tensions until you get the thread wrapping around the smoothly but not bunching up the satin within the stitch. Also put your differential to zero for a start and see how the stitching looks.
It is easy to forget to change the needles in the overlocker because it is usually a bit of a fiddle but they will go dull. And remember to just loosen off the needle screw a little, enough to remove the old and insert the new, don't turn it all the way out as they come out and there is often a little ballbearing up in the needle housing that can drop out and get lost with some models.
Also most sergers the two needles sit at different heights so make sure you've got them both fully up into the housing and sitting right, tweezers are a big help with this, I usually pop the needles into the housing, then balance the needle points on the screwdriver blade and lift it right up until it is all the way up, then hold firmly with the tweezer and do up the needle enough to hold it. Then repeat with the 2nd needle, then go back and recheck the first one until they are both spot on. Then manually turn through one stitching sequence to ensure that the needles are not touching the loopers, if you hear any touch, go back and recheck the needle placement again.
If you are just neatening single layer edges I would just use a 3 thread on satin and take out the left needle so it doesn't leave holes. If you are seaming two layers, then go to four thread (both needles) but you may need to use a bit of differential if the seam is puckering a bit.
If you find that changing the needle makes no difference at all, and stitches are still not forming correctly then it is possible that the timing is out a bit and the machine would need a service to sort this out. Hope this helps you out.
Posted on Apr 18, 2011
Testimonial: "thanks heaps I will try all that"
your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).
If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.
Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.
Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.
If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.
Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)
Posted on May 19, 2011
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