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Engine running rough. Murray pushmower,3.5 Briggs and Stratton

Engine won't maintain a constant speed. Speeds up and slows down. Any ideas?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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ccrozier_agr
  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: 2 1/2 Briggs......doesn't run smoothly....surges at all speeds.

Hi, Check that you have the correct spark plug fitted or fit a new one as it sounds like your plug is getting hot then shorting out.
Sometimes the magnito can do this as well. but I would start with the plug.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

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  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: Briggs & Stratton engine on Murray lawn mower

I always replace the air filter if its a paper element, and even if its a foam element I replace it rather than clean it. That said, engine stumbling is rarely and air flow problem - but it could be, so having a new filter assures no air restrictions.

I would drop the carbuerator bowl. On the bottom of the carb, near where the fuel line comes into the engine, should be a nut. Removing this nut allows the bowl to drop off the carb. Some engines the bowl screws off, you will have to look at the bowl. Often the bowl has sediment or sludge buildup inside. Cleaning the bottom of the bowl can prevent that sludge/sediment from plugging the intake tube. Even on newer mower models this is a common problem, the gas line tubing interior breaks down and the inside of the tubing can start degrading - ending up in the bowl as sludge.

After cleaning the bowl, I would add one ounce of fuel line cleaner to a full tank of fuel and run the entire tank of fuel. This will clean any deposits or "varnish" from the interior carb parts. Doing this and the first step will assure your carb is clean and functioning.

If that doesn't help, then I would look at the spacing between the magneto and coil assembly. If you want to do that I'd like you to write down all the model numbers and serial numbers on the engine nameplate, that way I can give you specific directions.

Hope this helps,
Gregg

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: We bought a Swisher T11544 44" Trailmower

Hello:

From your Brief Description it Sounds like the Carburetor Requires Cleaning.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk).
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also.
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool.
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable).
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck

Respectfully

John

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: 18 HP Briggs and Stratton OHV Model 31M777 runs rough

Have you checked the choke? Sounds like it might be stuck closed or partly closed.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • 1111 Answers

SOURCE: no power/rough idle/black smoke

either the choke is closed or the float is stuck open..if the float is stuck open, normally it will leak gas

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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I have a scotts mower 21595x8b with a loose spring/wire who goes from speed control mechanical stick to rear of the engine,no start


The lawn mower you have was manufactured by the Murray Company, which has been purchased by Briggs & Stratton. For parts and service, you can contact the Murray Division of Briggs & Stratton at 800-258-5011

Hialry @Scotts

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I do like to know if this washer is good enough for my business as a used car dealer? Briggs & Stratton Murray 020456 2400 PSI 20 GPM 190cc Briggs Stratton


We power washed houses for years with a 2400psi machine. The machine weighed about 90 pounds. 1 strong man could pick up the weight, but usually it took 2 men to unload it from the trailer.

A small machine can advertise 2400 psi ... but that is for 3 square inches at a time. The heavier machine shoots a 10" or wider swath of 2400psi.

We ran our machine twice a week for years. We had a honda engine. I'm sure the briggs engine is good. I wouldn't buy a used machine... unless the price was low and it started on first pull. Electric starter on your power washer might be a repair-waiting-to-happen because it is constantly exposed to water and dirt.

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To adjust idle speed set Throttle control to minimum and adjust screw on throttle butterfly to maintain a good idle speed. To adjust idle mixture, screw in idle mixture screw (Lean) until motor falters and then screw out (Rich) until it falters again. Correct setting is the halfway point of these two positions. You may have to re-adjust idle speed again and also the mixture to get best running.
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2 1/2 Briggs......doesn't run smoothly....surges at all speeds.


Hi, Check that you have the correct spark plug fitted or fit a new one as it sounds like your plug is getting hot then shorting out.
Sometimes the magnito can do this as well. but I would start with the plug.

Nov 26, 2008 | Garden

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