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I recently bought Breaker Finder Accessory Set, CS61200AS, and a Breaker Finder Circuit Breaker Locator, CS61200. The black and white leads on the black lamp socket pig tail adapter is wired black lead (hot), to screw thread contact and the white lead to the center contact. This is in reverse to what I would normally expect as all my other pigtail adapters and lamp sockets are wired black (hot) to center contact. The yellow screw in receptacle part of the accessory set is wired normally, that is, hot to center contact. I am not an electrician but a retired, since 2009, Industrial Instrument Technician.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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THIS document may help in dismantling the case. Although it is for the HP, it may prove useful.

Posted on May 12, 2008

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: Ground Wire is testing as hot

Assuming you are in the United States, the convention with 120 volt ac circuits is that the Black is HOT, the White Neutral, and Green is Ground. Assuming your tester is a neon type light suitable for 120 volt ac circuits, the tester will illuminate when the tester leads touch the black hot and the white neutral, and also when the tester leads touch the black hot and the green ground. the tester should not illuminate when the leads simultaneously touch the white neutral and the green ground. It appears from your description that Your circuit description is operating correctly.. Surprise? ... your tentative assertion "when I touch the black hot wire and the copper ground wire with the tester. This is should not happen, correct?" this assertion (YOURS) is wrong, rather, it would be correct for it to illuminate between the black hot and the green(you say bare copper) ground. It sounds to me, if you need to ask this question, "YOU SHOULD NOT BE FOOLING AROUND WITH LETHAL 120 VOLT HOUSE VOLTAGES AND CURRENTS" I strongly recommend you should hire a licenced electrician. Besides getting electrocuted, you could set fire to the HOUSE, and maybe not when you are looking but when you are asleep, or away from home. PLEASE BE FORWARNED. thank you. Regards --- GooseBay_Camper

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

SOURCE: Now power from my living room. The outlet on the

I wonder if you don't have a place where the wire has abraded through and is now able to track to earth, or even a Partial Disconnection of the Phase wire, at that point and where it has worn through, it is contacting ground. You could have a Phase disconnection, that is touching earth, and when a load comes on, the fault, because of the current draw, now goes "Full On" as it "Shorts" to earth, while at same time, cannot deliver much current past that fault point. You need to remove Power from that Circuit, then measure, for Continuity, from Breaker Board to each wire in the Socket, and From Phase & Neutral to Earth. You should get continuity between Phase & Neutral, BUT nothing between each of those and Earth. If you twist together, the Phase and Neutral at the Socket, from the breaker board end, you should get a very LOW OHMS reading under 1 -2 OHMS, if not that is a fault.

Posted on Mar 03, 2010

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SOURCE: The answers I've received so far are too

iam not so familiar with this system as an electronic expert i love make some suggestion the transformers have two section one is primary and the secondary if its step down transformer means when the p[primary section is give a high voltage the secondary has a low voltage it its a step up transformer the voltage secondary coil will have more voltage than the primary some transformers come with different winding in secondary and primary this can be found out by measuring the resistance between them the power to any transformer should be given to primary otherwise it may burn the transformer i think its in a serial connection the phase that is should be connected to H3 of the transformer and second end H4 of the transformer to be connected to the bulb the black wire go directly to the bulb

Posted on Oct 28, 2010

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: I'm instaling a two wire

Hook the green wires to the metal of the switch...
Then hook the black coming in to one of the outer screws, then hook the white coming in to the other outer screw...
Hook the two leads from the pump to the inner screws and you will be good to go!!!..
It really is not that hard...

Here is a tip that has a picture of a pressure switch this one there is a red and black for the power in and the power out...the in wires are on the one side of each contact and the out wires are on the other side..


Posted on Nov 06, 2010

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1 Answer

Install anarc breaker

To install a arc fault breaker you need to identify the hot (black) and neutral (white) wires in the main panel, the neutral connects to the breaker (silver screw) then the white lead from breaker goes to the neutral bar in the panel, and black to the breaker (brass screw)
if the breaker doesn't hold when rest there is a problem?
Arc Fault breakers detect loose connections, and reverse polarity, and any other arc,
always work with power off! Safety Glasses, gloves, etc...
if you are not an electrician, call one
hope this helps?

Mar 15, 2015 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Our 7788F keeps going into a ground fault condition. Need help troubleshooting. John

Ground Fault ???
Troubleshooting Ground Fault

Troubleshooting a ground fault circuit interrupt, or GFI, breaker is pretty straightforward. Troubleshooting the circuit itself can be quite time-consuming.
The GFI breaker is designed with a test button incorporated into the breaker itself.
Pushing the test button should trip the breaker.
On GFI-style breakers the neutral wire going into the house's outlets is connected to the breaker's neutral connector, the white neutral that comes out of the breaker is connected to the neutral bus in the panel, isolating the neutral bus from the neutral wire going into the house.
The test button actually shorts the neutral wire feeding the circuit to the neutral bus in the electrical panel creating a ground fault that should trip the breaker.
It is considered a ground fault because the neutral bus in the main electrical panel is actually connected to the ground bus through the panel's metal casing. What to do if the test button isn't tripping the breaker
Push the test button on the GFI breaker.
The breaker should trip.
If the breaker does not trip, then it may be that the breaker has already tripped and just looks like it's on.
The position of the switch may only move slightly from the on position towards the off position when tripped.

Push the switch on the GFI breaker all of the way toward the off position.
It may take some force to get the breaker to reset.
Turn the breaker back to the on position.
When the breaker has been reset properly you should feel some resistance when pushing the switch back on.

3 Push the test button again and the breaker should trip.
If the breaker still doesn't trip then you should test for power at the screw connections inside of the electrical panel.
Remove the screw that holds the dead front covering the breaker's connections.
Remove the dead front cover.

Test for power with your voltmeter set on AC volts on the highest scale.
For a single pole GFI breaker, touch the black lead from the tester to the silver screw on the GFI breaker and touch the red lead from the tester to the brass screw on the GFI breaker.
You should see 110 volts on the tester. If voltage is seen but the test button won't trip the breaker, then the breaker is bad and should be replaced.

Test for power on a two pole breaker by touching the red voltmeter lead to one of screws with a black or red wire connected to it.
Touch the black lead to the other screw with a black or red wire connected to it.
You should read 220 volts or close to it on your voltmeter.
If you read voltage and the test button won't trip, the breaker is bad and needs to be replaced.

What to do if the breaker won't reset and keeps tripping when turned on
Unplug everything that is plugged into any of the outlets on the circuit in question.
Try resetting the breaker again by pushing the switch all the way to the off position and then turning it back to the on position.
If it won't reset and trips when the breaker's switch hits the on position, it could be a bad breaker or a problem in the circuit itself.
Use your straight-tipped screwdriver to loosen the brass connection screw or screws on the GFI breaker.
Pull the black hot wire, or wires, out of the breaker's connectors.
Loosen the silver screw the white wire is connected to and remove it from the GFI breaker.

Push the switch all the way to the off position.
Turn the switch back to the on position.
If the breaker still won't reset, then the problem is the breaker itself and it should be replaced with a new one of the same size, brand and model.
If the breaker resets normally and the test button trips the breaker when pushed, the problem is in the circuit itself and an electrician should be called to find your ground fault.

Reconnect the black wire, or wires, to the brass screws on the GFI breaker.
Reconnect the white wire to the silver screw on the GFI breaker.

Replace the dead front cover into the breaker panel.
Install the screw or screws that hold the dead front in place.

Aug 14, 2013 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Woods In-wall Timer Heavy Duty, Model #59018 -- I just installed my timer and was able program and set the time, but when I push the manual override button to turn the light on, the light flashes and turns...

Quick answer:
1) Programming steps say 'press clock key to return to current time and day'
2) Use mode button and change between AUTO & RND >> try manual override in each mode
3) Does timer turn lights on-and-off with program, or do they blink too?
4) Swap Black and Red wires
5) Try timer on light in different room, on different circuit breaker
6) Timer might be defective

Longer answer:
Woods 59018 manual does not show troubleshooting steps except 'check wiring; switch Red and Black leads; and/or reset programming'

Seems unlikely you could program timer unless timer is wired correctly ... unless there is a short of some kind.

To review wiring.
Green goes to bare ground wire.
White goes to Neutral white wire (neutral is usually 2 or 3 white wires twisted together and shoved to back of box)
Black must connect to Hot from circuit breaker
Red must connect to Load (light, fan, motor etc)

How to test wiring
Disconnect timer and set aside.
Mark each wire
Separate wires in box so they don't touch
Use ordinary tester (you can tape tester leads to wood sticks)
Turn on power
You should have two black wires that were originally connected to switch
Test black wires to bare ground > when tester lights up, that is the Hot wire.
The other black wire goes to Load

Now you want to find the neutral.
Test the Hot black wire to white wires in box.
When tester lights up, that is neutral.

If everything checks out, I guess timer is defective.

Sep 29, 2010 | Woods InWall 7 Day Digital Programmable...

1 Answer

Wirirng a homeline 20 amp gfic breaker

You didn't indicate what the problem was. If you're connecting a GFCI breaker, you connect the white lead on the breaker to the neutral bar. You connect the white wire going to the load to the terminal next to that white wire. You connect your black wire to the load to the other ternminal on the breaker. The instructions should be on the box.

Sep 22, 2010 | Your One Source Homeline Circuit Breaker

1 Answer

Installing an up to date leviton how do i know which wire crosses over to the next? 30A

follow the wires to where they enter the breaker cabinet, the ones coming out of a cable will be a pair, red and black or black and white. If you have a volt meter, turn on one set of switches on the breaker and measure the terminals, the one with 230 volts will be the ones to connect that set of wires to

Sep 04, 2010 | General Electric 40/30Amp 4-pole tandem...

2 Answers

I just bought a AOSmith 1hp pool pump. I do not

Well first did you have an old one you're replacing? Check it. Second you could test your voltage with a tester (best idea then you know for sure). Third, you can look at the circuit breaker in your panel, and if it is a single breaker , it is 125V If it's a double pole breaker (two wide with wide handle) then it's 230V. Usually if it is 230V then the wires coming to it would both be black, or black and red, with a bare or green ground. Usually if it's 115V you'll have one black (hot), one white (neutral) and one bare or green(ground) but at times someone will wire one 230 with black and white. There should also be a large bonding copper jumper connected to a lug on the outside of the motor to bond your system to the pool (NOT AN EQUIPMENT GROUND)

Jul 05, 2010 | AO Smith A O Smith Motors Century 1hp 115v...

3 Answers

Switch stuck in trip mode

The reason why the breaker stays tripped is a result of a direct short. Unplug every electrical device plugged into an outlet in both rooms and try the breaker. If it stays on, individually start plugging in each device until the breaker trips, that is the defective device. If the breaker stays tripped, start checking wall outlets for short circuits with an ohm meter. If you did not find a short, check your hard wired lamps and appliances for shorts. If you did not find any shorts the only other problem is a shorted pair of wires in the wall or ceiling. You will need to disconnect any hard wired lamps and appliances and check for shorts between individual pairs of hot (black) and neutral (white) then hot and ground. I have a short circuit finder, but you do not need one because the technology is not perfect and you may have to manually check for shorts with a meter anyway which never lies.

Jun 25, 2010 | Square D Co. HOM130 Circuit Breaker

1 Answer

Circuit Installation

The process contain a certain degree of risk, but if you follow all safety steps, you should be just fine. Most standard electric panels have a main disconnect switch or breaker at the top of the panel or load center. It is a code requirement. If the load center doesn't have one, then look for the main disconnect at a different location possibly near the electric meter. Turn it off. You better have a flashlight handy or a caving or miner's helmet, because you are going to need a light source. Circuit breakers plug into the load center. The electricity flows into each breaker via a large metal strip inside the panel or load center. It is called a bus bar. This strip is HIGHLY dangerous. Touch this strip while it is energized and you will very likely die. If a screwdriver you are holding slips and touches it, expect nearly the same result. Keep in mind that even though the main breaker may be off, the bus bar may be energized for any number of reasons! Also, the wires leading into the top of the main disconnect are always energized and represent a life safety hazard. In other words, the inside of an electric panel or load center is ALWAYS a dangerous place to be. The black wire to a circuit attaches to one end of a standard or AFCI breaker. The location is almost always a hole that is drilled through a threaded cylinder. A screw twists into this cylinder and tightly clamps down the wire. When installing a new breaker, I always find it easier to attach the circuit wire to the breaker before I plug the breaker into the panel. When removing a breaker, I usually unplug the breaker from the bus bar and then remove the circuit wire from the end of the breaker. Make sure the breaker is in the off position. The end of the breaker where the circuit wire attaches almost always has a small notch in it. This notch fits under or slides into a metal tab strip that runs parallel with the bus bar. This is what stabilizes the breaker. Without this secondary attachment, the breakers would flap in the panel much like a sail that is not tied down to the mast or the side of a boat. Tip the end of the breaker so the notch slides into the metal tab. You then align the breaker with the bus bar and push it down onto the bar. The tension tabs on the breaker open slightly and grip the bus bar as the breaker seats itself. If you feel the breaker seated itself correctly, simply turn it on. All should be well. Remember to follow the instructions that come with the breaker. Always follow the sequence the manufacturer suggests. AFCI breakers require one additional step. You need to locate the white wire that is paired with the black wire in that circuit. The white wire actually attaches to the breaker as well. There is a coiled white wire that leads out of the breaker. This white wire attaches to the neutral bus bar in spot that is vacated when you disconnect the white wire of the circuit. If this answer scared you, call an electrician!

Aug 27, 2008 | General Electric 20 Amp, 1 Pole Thick Type...

1 Answer

Cadet wall mount and thermostat

your wiring is all wrong. for a 240 heater a 20/20 tandem breaker will not work with a 240 heater. you need a 20 amp two pole breaker. the two wires at the heater need to be connected to the line. you probably have two black wires at the heater. one connects to the white romex which should be taped black, and the other romex black connects to the other black wire. at the panel one white goes to one side of the breaker and the black to the other. the bare ground goes to the neutral bar.

Oct 27, 2007 | Cadet Manufacturing 67507 Heater

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