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Loud click and buzz then does not start lid does not lock when it does this. It works some of the times

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  • Brett Oct 16, 2013

    diagnostics never would give me much info. I took the switch apart the spring and clip where out of wack.. I put it back like i thought it should be and it working we will see. I don't think it ever worked correctly as it would always lock down and never release the lid until after the full cycle. Now it will release on pause. we will see as it has work intermittently thaks for the help

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 16, 2013

    no problem glad you got it to work

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 16, 2013

    i just got your other message and it's not working again,if you took the switch apart and it did work i'd have to say you still have a bad lid switch,this is where i would start,also tilt the washer back and remove the felt and plastic cover on the bottom,have someone hit the start button while you're under the washer and see if you can hear where the sound is coming from,also the lid switch is used as a safety so nobody can open the washer when it's running,if the switch is bad it won't run.

  • Brett Dec 02, 2013

    im still desiding of its worth another 139.00 for a washer that washes with air instead of water lol..

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  • Kenmore Master
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What's the model number.if you hold in the door switch by hand will it statrt?

Posted on Oct 13, 2013

Testimonial: "this was ported in wrong section it has been reposted in washers"

  • 40 more comments 
  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 14, 2013

    what's the brand name and model number, of the washer

  • Brett Oct 15, 2013

    Kenmore top loading washing machine model # 110 26002010

  • Brett Oct 15, 2013

    no the switch on the body cannot be overrided with out taking the top off

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    get a putty knife and stick it in between the top and front panels,there are clips one on each side,when you get the top up,reach down on the left side of the front panel,there's a tech sheet or booklet there,it will tell you how to put it into diagnostics,i've found with this washer that there's an actuator part number W10006355 that fails,unplug it,tilt the washer back,remove the bottom felt panel,you'll see a white cover,,two 5/16 inch screws hold the cover on,you'll see the actuator or shifter,two phillips screws hold it in place,go here,it shows you what to do but just lean the top against the wall so you don't have to lay the washer down,also check the nut on the white gear,i've seen that get loose too.the best thing to do is put it into diagnostics,find out the error codes and go from therehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Z1JdsJYa...

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObQSoeoae...

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    these are the common kenmore whirlpool washer diagnostics

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    lid switch part number W10404050

  • Brett Oct 15, 2013

    http://youtu.be/chNNoptT8nE this is my model not at wirlpool copy i do not believe no lights for dianostics it will click and then produce a loud buz the lid lock button will stay red and machine will do nothing until you unplug it. plug it back in anbd it may or may not work if it doesnt it will do the ssame thing (click and Buz)

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/S...

  • Brett Oct 15, 2013

    ok I finally got into diagnostic mode it will not run a wash or spin test but will run water and drain the whole time the lid lock buttlon flashes red I will order a switcvh for it as a first try it does not click and hum in test mode nor will it complete a automatic test cycle

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    go here and watch the video,you could have a loose nut on the white gear that you'll see in the picture.i think to get this into diagnostics turn the selector knob once to the left,then three to the right one to the left and then once again to the right,now turn the knob clockwise until just the done light is lit,hit start and turn it clockwise again and the error codes will come up.the tech sheet might be in the top console or on the inside front panel.this video will show you how to change the shifter or actuator.let me know if this helps you,the best way that i can help you is if you find any error codes,that grinding sound sounds like the nut on the bottom could be loose,if it's not i'd change out the actuator,these are the two most common problems with this style washerhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zmzSSUc8dI.

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    if you order the parts from repair clinic they let you return any parts you buy and you have 365 days to do this,not a bad deal

  • Brett Oct 15, 2013

    decided to take off the top but the clips are in a difernet position than videos I am at loss to trying to undo them ther seems to be one in the middle front and 1 inch in on the left and tight a putty knife will not budge them

  • Brett Oct 15, 2013

    I would like to just bypass it as the washer is notorous for not having enough water in the cycle. to HE for me.. I like clean clothe and them coming out of the washer dry alrready is been a conastant issue since it was first put in use a real bummer of a machine

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    it's been a while since i saw your model,i think i had the same problem,i removed two screws from the back there's like a hinge back there and i slide the whole top forwards to get the top up,also i worked on a centennial,on the top lid there's two screws that holds the part that connects to the lid switch,it's just a piece of metal in the clip that makes the magnet in the lid switch work,i removed it and just stuck it into the bottom part of the switch so you can open the lid without disturbing the lid switch.this way if you want to add water or more clothes you don't have to wait for the stupid lid switch to open,man is that a bummer waiting.hope this helps.

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 15, 2013

    let me know if you get it into diagnostics and if you pull up any error codes.

  • Brett Oct 16, 2013

    diagnostics never would give me much info. I took the switch apart the spring and clip where out of wack.. I put it back like i thought it should be and it working we will see. I don't think it ever worked correctly as it would always lock down and never release the lid until after the full cycle. Now it will release on pause. we will see as it has work intermittently thanks for the help

  • Brett Oct 16, 2013

    well that lasted for 2 loads.. the loud buzz comes fron unerneath or in the control panel it will buzz the lock or buzz and not lock you can here a very distinct click when it locks other wise it just buzzes. I guess i will try a new switch but i have my wonders if the buzz is more of the culprit.

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 16, 2013

    i had one of these washers,it was buzzing,i tilted it back and felt the pump and this is where the noise was coming from,i took down the pump and found a sock stuck in it,or like i told you one of the biggest problems with these washers is the actuator or shifter same part or the nut gets loose on the white gear on the bottom,all you have to do is remove the bottom felt panel and take out the two 5/16 inch screws that hold the plastic cover in place,if you find oil down there you could have a bad tranny. but hopefully you just have a bad lid switch.also like i told you you can remove the strike off of the lid and stick it into the lid switch so you can open the lid whenever you want,it's just two screws holding the strike in place.good luck if you need any help let me know.

  • Brett Oct 21, 2013

    ok but in a new switch it ran through to the spin cycle finished it when it started to fill with water the click and hum went off anain the hum stayed on and the thing smelled smoky it upluged it. I know get the same issues as before the loud click and hum but the hum shuts off after 2-3 seconds it sonds like abig magnet or a cylinoid malfuntions if i leave it unpluged for an hour or so it will get past the first trouble and fail at the refil after spinning. I have never been able to get it to run the diad. becouse of the the lid lock buzzy and click hum stopps the diag.

  • Brett Oct 21, 2013

    could it be thishttp://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...

  • Brett Oct 21, 2013

    or the acutaator like you said jsut doesnt seem like the noise it coming from the bottom but i am single nad have no way to turn on and get under it at the same time

  • Brett Oct 21, 2013

    i dont think the machine is worth these parts lol but i will try the very loud click and hum has me stumped

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 21, 2013

    put it just on cold water and see if it fills,you could have a bad water valve,after the spin cycle the washer just fills with cold water so the clothes don't rinkle and if the valve is clgged or no water going through the valve it will buzz or hum.youcan shut the water down,mark and remove the water lines and check the screens in the valve to see if it's clogged with sediment.if this isn't it i would call someone in to check it if you smell smoke.

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 21, 2013

    this has nothing to do with the lid locking,the cap is just for the motor,can you tell where the smell is coming from?if the motor isn't running you can check the cap.tilt the machine back and look at it,if the cap is bad you'll smell it and it most likely will be blown apart or look burnt,if the smell is coming from the top console you could have a cooked computer board but without being there i'm just guessing

  • Brett Oct 22, 2013

    it smell of smoke after the humm stays on and doest shut down after a loud click im not afraid of the smoke im fight here wathching it its only a year old and only had 15 loads ran through it was so horible we never liked it so we just kept using the old one now the old out two.. lol

  • Brett Oct 22, 2013

    I just have to find what humming sounds like a magnet click and a hum from a coil

  • Brett Oct 22, 2013

    where its coming from.. i could replace all these part then still have to buy a new control board

  • Brett Oct 22, 2013

    it broke a week after the warrentee wwas out

  • Brett Oct 22, 2013

    finally got a automatice diag to run test codes all point to a bad lid lock cylinoid..

  • Brett Oct 22, 2013

    so that points to the main control panel.. 136 at sears 217 most other places but i still don't know where the heck the loud hum is cominmg from.. and why.. thanks sal for your interest and help

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 22, 2013

    let me know how you make out,did you check the cold water and the valve is working correctly?also i would try to run it in diagnostics again and check the error codes,this will point you in the right direction on where the problem is,one more thing if i were you i would unplug the washer tilt it back and on the back right side you'll see the pump,there are three screws that hold it on and is very easy to take off and check to see if anything is stuck there before you buy the board.good luck and let me know what you find.

  • Brett Oct 23, 2013

    ran fine so did auto and all manual..now I think it may be the capacitor or acuator the run sometimes other not make alot of noise.

  • Brett Oct 23, 2013

    noise only when they dont work sound fine when they do

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 23, 2013

    if the cap blew the motor wouldn't run so like i told you before the two most common problems with these washers is the actuator or the nut gets loose on the gear on the bottom near the actuator.

  • Brett Oct 24, 2013

    well I didnt understand what you meant by a cap.. so if it is the actuator it must have memory cus when you unplug the machine for 4 hrs it will run fine for a few cycles then do it again. it does not come up as an issue in diag because it anly happens of firsts start after running a few loads stopping the diag from running or giving a switch lock error

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 24, 2013

    the cap is the capacitor and the actuator doesn't have any memory but if the actuator fails the washer will not run correctly it's used to shift or engage the transmission

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 24, 2013

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTHryoT78...

  • Brett Oct 24, 2013

    Finnaly figured out that all the test were not running as i needed to manually test the lid lock and leave in lock mode then run the other tests, it came back F1 E2 wich is motor control fault so i test the shifter manually it could not complete test and buzzed and locked out. Part ordered.. we will see the only thing else now is the main control . Thank you...

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 24, 2013

    let me know how you make out in case someone else has same problem maybe this can help them too.

  • Brett Oct 26, 2013

    part installed.. same issue on to the main elec control... I hate wirlpool nothing but junk. Like i said before this thing has about 20-25 loads ran through it...

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 26, 2013

    sorry to hear it,i know you don't want to hear this but you changed the two cheapest parts that this washer has had problems with,if the buzzing was coming from the shifter or acuator same thing then i would have changed it out.now you have to decide if you want to spend the money on the board or a new washer,try this,call the manufacturer,tell them you're having problems with the washer and the computer board isn't working correctly what can you do for me,they might give you the board.i wouldn't tell them that you changed any parts,they might say you caused the problem,all they can do is say no,good luck with your washer

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