Question about Kitchen Ranges
Oven sensor is bad
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Oven Temperature Sensor
it's just not just the sensor ,it's the thermostat which is on the back of oven knob. that sensor is part of the thermostat it's all one of the same part. to check the temperature put a thermometer inside the oven and set the the oven knob at 200 degrees. 20 minutes later check and see what temperature it's inside the oven, to regulate the temperature many of the new ovens are set from the factory, It can not be calibrate, on the older ones the adjustment screw is inside the shaft when you take the oven knob of, it's inside the shaft.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
Thanks for providing the full model number, which allows us to look up part numbers and see exploded views of your product.
Most likely the bake ignitor is bad (even if it still glows, it may not draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open). One way you can test this on your model is to swap out the broil ignitor for the bake ignitor, as they are the same part number on your model. (part number WB13T10045) The broiler is normally used much less than the oven, so the part does not fail very often on the broiler. You will have to take the cover off the floor of the oven, then the flame spreader, to reach the burner area. The ignitor is the rectangular part at the back, on the side of the burner. (only two wires to deal with) (By the way, for future reference, your model number ends is SS, as in stainless steel, not a 55)
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
you need to check the ignitor even if the ignitor glows it might not be pulling enough amps to call for gas replace the ignitor and this should take care of the problem
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
Sounds like you are only getting 120 volts to the range. If your house has fuses, check for one of the 50 amp ones out. Best if you have a way of testing voltage. Could be a loose / poor electrical connection at the range power recepticle where the cord plugs in, or where the cord connects to the range. Of course it could be in the range wiring or possibly in the range control, but that is not as likely. Get a voltage meter and find out where you are loosing the other half of your 240 volts.
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
The door latched Micro-switch is not working or is dirty.
Remove the back panel, in the middle of the back there will be a metal arm that moves in and out when self cleaning latch is closed and opened. This arm pushes two or more Micro-Switches in the back, they are dirty or not working and need replacing.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 07, 2011 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...
This means a
loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is
bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it
should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the
door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and
should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Aug 01, 2011 | GE Spacemaker JMP28 Electric Kitchen Range
Apr 23, 2010 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...
Feb 10, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges
Jan 04, 2010 | GE Ovens
Dec 01, 2008 | GE Profile 30" Self-Cleaning Slide-In...
Nov 07, 2007 | GE JSP26 Electric Kitchen Range
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