Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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How can I fit the GE Oven control panel back to the unit so it fits flush against the cabinet? It's driving me nuts. I took the panel down before and after much cussing and sweating I managed to get it fitted neatly. But due to the fact that I had to keep taking it off and putting paper, paper towel inside the ribbon to absorb moisture and prevent the F7 code, the darned thing is working now, but sort of hanging lame when I fasten the screws back in. I have had duck tape sort of holding the top on for two weeks but it's getting embarrassing! Help! I fixed my darned oven, but can't quite figure out how to get that sucker fastened back on. The holes just don't easily matchup with the studs for easy hookup. HELP!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE Profile Oven FTP18 - F7 Code

The F7 problem is usually caused by a short circuit between segments of the ribbon cable connecting the touchpanel to the ERC. Open the touch panel. Insert a slip of paper (yes paper) between the two segments of ribbon cable where it exits the slot in the touchpanel. Try to work the paper down as far as possible. A piece of file card may work better. See the attached photo. If you have a metal touch panel, also add slips of paper between the ribbon cable and the edges of the slot. I have shared my solution with over 795 folks with the F7 problem. Most report success. Cleaning the contacts is a myth. It is only a short time solution as when you move the cable you are temporarily disrupting the short circuit, but it will grow back. The short is caused by what is know a dendrite. It is a growth from the silver traces on the membrane switch conductors. If you want more technical information, contact me at The solution should work for all ovens made by GE including Kenmore as far back as 1998. Don't be concerned about putting paper in the top of the oven. GE places a set of instructions in the top of the oven. Many folks have replaced touchpanels only to have the problem return.

Posted on May 29, 2007

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SOURCE: getting F7 code on a ge profile performance oven

F7 A = Function pad button stuck or
B = Bad clock Unstick button or
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
Try gliding your finger flat across the keypad rapidly and see if you can unstick the key / touch pad. Usually once this code appears it will repeat.

On self cleaning ovens this is the service check:

Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

Thanks for using FixYa!


Posted on Mar 09, 2010

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How do I replace the temperature controller in GE model P7 oven?

should be easy make sure u unplug from wall then in the back panel u can unplug after making sure to note where wire plugs are connected and ifinite switch can usually be removed by removing the screws holding it. remember to remove the knob from other side

Mar 08, 2015 | GE Ovens

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My GE JKP45 double oven needs a new control panel (part # WB27K5047 which is no longer available) There are a few place I've found on-line that refurbish electronic panels, or if it only has a loose...

according to the website i use to look up part#s while the part# you have is indeed not available a replacement for it is WB27T10050
to removeand replace it unscrew the screws that hold it to the cabinet pull it out about 4-6 inches,remove the grill directly under the control panel on the upper oven and look for screws around the panel where ya have pulled it out of the cabinet
to see yourself the replacement part# go to searspartsdirect and enter the model# and you will see the eoc (electronic oven control) as item #16 under the control panel and top tab

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I have a Simpson electric oven with stove top elements, and one of the burners will only cook at the highest level, I cant figure out how to change it, any suggestions?

You need to change the "Simmerstat", take the model number to your local electrical parts supplier/parts counter at your local stove retail shop that sells Simpson stoves and ask for one for that model, make sure you get the right one for the position as some control a single element and some control dual elements.

Remove the upper back panel of the stove. Swap wire for wire of the old simmerstat to the new one, remove the knob from the old Simmerstat, undo the nut securing the simmerstat in the oven control panel and discard, fit new one, secure, fit knob, fit back panel, turn on wall switch and test.

Some countrys/states require registered electricians perform this task on electrical appliances so you must ensure you can do this legally before you start and take the relevant safety precautions and don't electrocute yourself.

Apr 13, 2011 | Ovens

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I have a GE Profile Wall Oven. JT910SASS. The cooling fan makes a loud noise. How do I replace it? Where is it?


Firstly, you don't need to replace your fan simply because it's noisy. It may be sufficient just to grease the spindle/bearings.

The fan is located at the back of the oven and CANNOT be accessed from inside the oven. If you open the oven door, you will see a grille at the back of the oven compartment - basically just some slots and holes cut into the back panel. Behind this grille is the heating coil/element, then another panel, behind which is the fan/fan motor. Basically, the fan is right at the back, dead-centre of the unit.

To access the fan, you will need to remove the oven from the wall cabinet and remove the back panel. To do this, you first need to unplug the oven or, if it's hardwired, detach the cable from the outlet - power off please! Next, remove the retaining screws at the on both sides of the oven at the front - these are only revealed when the door is open. You should now be able to remove the oven from the wall cabinet by pulling it forwards gradually and feeding the power cable through as you do it. I suggest getting someone to help you lift it out as they are fairly heavy and awkward to hold/carry. Also wear some old clothes as the bottom of the unit can be quite greasy!

Put the oven somewhere safe where you can access the back of the oven easily. The fan is covered by a removable back panel. Undo the screws (about 10) around the edges of the panel and partially pull the panel away - taking care not to snag any of the wiring behind the panel. You will also need to remove the connectors to the main power cable to remove the panel fully. Make a note of the connections (or take a photo) to ensure you reconnect it correctly!

You should now have clear access to the fan. Inpsect it visually to see if the blades are broken and try spinning it by hand to identify where the noise is coming from. If the blades are sound apply some HMP grease around the spindle which rotates the fan. This can be quite tricky, so it might be easier to liberally apply some spray lube around the area. Spin the fan by hand a little to work the lube in.

Next, test the oven before putting it back into the wall cabinet. This can be done by replacing the back panel and plugging the oven into a socket or extension cable. If the oven was hardwired, attach a plug to the end of the cable. Turn the oven on at the minimum temperature and let it run for 5-10 minutes to allow the lubricant to work through. If the noise has diminished or gone, reinstall the oven in reverse order of the above. After refitting, I suggest running the oven empty on a low-mid temperature until the smell of lubricant has gone.

If the fan is damaged - or you can't get rid of the noise by lubricating it - then you will need to buy a new motor and fan blade. Fitting these is easy with the back panel removed as they simply bolt/screw onto the back panel of the oven and the wires just slide on and off. If possible, take some photos before removing the old fan/motor to ensure correct fitting of the new parts.

Please post back if you need further assistance.

Hope this helps.


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1 Answer

Bubbles on control panel overlay

If the overlay isn't a protective foil that easily peals off, the hair dryer would only serve to distort it, I don't believe it will cause it to shrink to fit. If it was applied with a 'self-stick' backing, you may be able to puncture the bubbles and press it back down with a hot rag.

Sep 15, 2009 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven

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Whirlpool built-in double oven model# RBD305PDB12

the humming sound is coming from the "squirrel cage" fan in the back of the unit, there may be some resonance vibration from the fan this issue should be addressed by a qualified service tech, the whole wall oven needs to be pulled out, i would have him check the fan.

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GE PGB975SEMSS Broiler and Oven flames too large and yellow

It sounds like your not getting enough air mixed in with the gas.if you can't adjust for more air make sure you were not supposed to change the spuds that feed the gas on the lower units.

Mar 16, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

JKP56 and JTP56 Differences

Those are not full model numbers, but basically a JKP56 fits a 27 inch cabinet and a JTP56 fits a 30 inch cabinet, so obviously the key panel / control panel would be different. I looked up a couple ERC range controls, and they are also not compatible. Note: usually you will not need both of those parts. The most common of the two is the front panel. (common F1 error code) If this answers your question a "FixYa" rating would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Wall Oven does not fit flush into built in cabinet


Apr 10, 2008 | Ovens

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Built in GE wall oven

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Nov 13, 2007 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven

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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

Feb 19, 2016 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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