Question about Estate EED4400WQ Electric Dryers
Yes,usually people don't know that the dryer and vent line has to be cleaned out,if it's gas it should be done at least once a year,electric 1 1/2 years,so you don't have a fire and so none of the t-stats will pop.if the dryer isn't taken apart and the lint filter duct,the cabinet where the motor is and the vent line isn't cleaned out you will have bad air flow,the dryer will run hotter than normal and the t-stats are made to pop if this happens for safety reasons.your lint filter is on top so unplug the dryer,pull it away from the wall,remove the vent line,remove the back panel,now pull out the lint filter and remove the two phillips screws in front of it,go in the back and on the left side you'll see the metal duct the lint filter slides into,remove the four screws,they are 1/4 or 5/16 inch screws,clean out the duct and any lint you see in the back,also if the duct doesn't pull out completely push it to one side and clean off the top vent,now look to the bottom right of the duct,youll see a white piece with two wires,that's the thermal fuse,check that with a meter,you always have to remove at least one wire when checking a part,set your meter to say 20k ohms,touch the leads together,you should get a reading,now touch the leads to the fuse part 3392519,if it stays at 1 the fuse is bad,any other reading it's good.if it's good go to the heater box,start at the top,pull at least one wire off and check it,part number 279816 this is a kit,you change this t-stat and the one on the bottom.if the top t-stat is good check all the others.if all these check ggod you could have a bad timer or motor but this is unussual.after you clean the back and find the problem go to the front,with the two top panel screws out,you want to pop the top panel,get a screw driver,stick it into the space between the top and front panels around two inches from the corner,push down on the screw driver and pop the top up,do this on both sides,now you'll see a 5 /16 inch screw one on each side a few inches down from the top,remove them and disconnect the door switch wires on the right side,a small screw driver can be slid in between the plastic to separate the wire harness,now tilt out the front panel and pull up one side at a time and remove the front panel,with a shop vac vac up any lint,then set it up to blow and blow all the lint from the back to the front so you don't have to pull the drum,blow off the mmotor too.put it back together,now go outside check the outside duct or hood,if anything is blocking it remove it like a cage or screen,go back inside,i use a leaf blower,stick the leaf blower into the vent line that you removed from the back of dryer and blow it outside,hope this helps,if you need any other help let me know.sal de.
Posted on Oct 13, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The following link explains the wiring scheme for 3 and 4 prong power cords. I know the instructions are for converting from a 3 to a 4 prong, but if you look under the "Additional Notes" section it explains how to convert back to a 3-prong if you are currently using a 4-prong.
I hope this helps you. If you have any questions, please let me know.
Posted on Aug 13, 2008
The thermal fuse is located behind the back panel just to the left of the exhaust opening (looking from the back), it is white in color and has 2 wires (usually blue) going to it.
If you dryer comes on sometimes I would suspect this is not the problem.
The symptoms you describe most often are a loose wire or a bad motor.
Posted on Apr 24, 2010
I'm assuming from the symptoms you posted, that the dryer does run, correct? If so, the fuse box may have checked out, but have you also checked for the correct voltage at the wall receptacle? A dryer will still run, but will not heat, if its missing a portion of the input voltage. The reason is that the drive motor only uses 120VAC to run, while the heating circuits need the full 240VAC service. If you are missing one leg of the input voltage, the dryer will exhibit the symptoms you describe. In addition, depending on when your home was built, some houses use two separate breakers that feed the 240VAC source the dryer needs to run. Have you checked to make sure there isn't more than one breaker that feeds the dryer? If you have checked for the correct voltage, have you also checked the continuity of the power cord to the terminal block? A broken power cord can give the same symptoms.
If the model number is correct, this is a very simple dryer to work on. There are no other switches or relays, other than the door switch and the built in centrifugal switch inside the drive motor. If the door switch were bad the dryer would not run at all. If the centrifugal switch in the motor were bad, the dryer may or may not run (depending on how it is faulted), which may give you the symptoms you describe.
When you checked the components, how did you determine they were good? If you need assistance (just to clarify your measurments), the following two links can give you some tips on how to troubleshoot this problem:
I hope I'm not insulting your itelligence. I ask these simple questions, because they are things that can easily be overlooked. If you need further assistance, please post back and elaborate a bit more on your symptoms, so i can provide you with a more definitive answer. I hope this information was helpful to you.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
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