Question about Pool & Spa
Spa will not heat past 93 degrees
Sounds like bad temp sensor should ohm out to about 78 ohms if ok you should be able to go into diagnostics and set temp calibration
Posted on Apr 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hopefully you have not fried the motor. To free a stuck motor: try to reach past the strainer to the impeller and turn it. If you can't do that, remove the electric end cover and find a double flat for a wrench where the shaft goes into the motor. Or maybe you can remove the spring thing from the end of the motor and move the shaft with a pair of vise grips or pliers. Don't damage the place where the spring thing mounts. Don't try to move the motor with the plastic fan thing near the pump, you'll just break it, and then you really have problems.
To keep a motor from sticking, thru off season occasionaly spin the pump, just a few seconds will do, don't need water.
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
There is a skimmer in the side of your tub( the part that skimms water off the top ) and what is called a main drain or a better tearm is deep suction that pulls water from the bottom of the tub and helps collect heavy dirt from in the tub these two lines ( three if there is more than one main drain) These will all come together and then hook to the front of the pump. If your filter is under the skimmer basket the top of the pump will go to the heater and then back to the spa. If your filter in not under the skimmre basket then it will come after the pump then on to the heater. So in answer to your second question, the front of the pump draws the water in and the top pushes the water out. But make sure that your heater is last in line so it only deals with clean water and it will not run on the suction side of the pump as it need water pressure in it to start and contious flow to keep it from over heating. Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
This is tough cause I can't see the valve setup. I have to assume they are manual valves. Normal operation probably takes some water out of the pool and spa than puts it back into both. To heat the spa, set the intake valves(the ones in front of pump) to take water from only the spa. Set the jets(valve(s) on output side of filter) to send water back to only the spa. The pool will be out of the loop. Normal operation usually has water taken out of pool and spa than put back into both. Make sure to put more water back into spa than you take out, (Adjust valve)
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
It is unlikely the Breaker is BAD, that just doesn't happen. To trip a breaker there MUST be an Overload, or a Short circuit, that's it. You will have to use a meter an troubleshoot the system. Something is very wrong..please use the links below to troubleshoot and repair. Please Be careful.
Posted on May 07, 2010
Testimonial: "Looks like this info may save me a service call. Many thanks for the answer and the links."
SOURCE: My customer's spa works/heats
This sounds like a flow issue. Your controller and heater is made by Balboa and requires a minimum flow rate of around 25 gallons a minute to function properly. This flow rate is measured by sampling temperature differences between the inlet and outlet of the heater. If the flow is low the temperature will increase at the outlet. As long as the difference is less than 4 degrees, then the unit will function normally, but once the difference increases to 4 degrees or above the unit will shutdown and display OH, OHH or DR ( may vary depending on model). Reasons for this occurring... dirty filter, clogged pump inlet, partially or completely closed valve in the same line as the heater, obstruction in the plumbing before or after the pump, blocked suction fittings. There is a simple test that can be performed to determine if the problem is flow related. On the main circuit board is 1 or more banks of micro switches (called DIP switches) They are usually red in color and numbered 1-x (x being the highest number from 5-9). On the insideof the control box lid is a schematic which references these switches in a chart or table. Usually Dip Switch 1 will be the one. This switch is usually OFF. With the System on and running - Using a Pen or small tipped (INSULATED) screwdriver, carefully push the switch to the ON position (up or down as needed). Now observe the display and watch for "A" and a temp, then watch for "B" and a temp. Note the difference between the 2 temp readings. NO difference is good, any difference less than 3 is good, any difference 3 and higher is NOT good and indicates a flow issue. If the reading is high, look for one of the above symptoms to be present.
Posted on Sep 09, 2010
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