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Unit shuts off before it reaches desired temperature. Do i have the thermostat sensor located in the wrong spot? It is mounted on the coils.

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Sensor should be in the flow of air entering the temperature air. the evaporator coils will always be cooler than the room temperature while the unit runs normally

Posted on Nov 20, 2013

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No it is not due to any thermostat issue, just set the temp 2 degree low.

Posted on Oct 15, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: central air

may i asked what kind of thermostat you are using? is it a digital or a mechanical one.
it could be out of calibration..
try experimenting with it...
right now if your setting is 75 F and its cutting at 78F then try to lower the setting to 73 F and it might cut off at 75 F then you would know that you have a bad thermostat or a theremostat with a little bit off in calibration...

i hope i was able to solve ur problem

pls rate me...

tnx 4 using fixya..


Posted on Jul 23, 2008

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SOURCE: Furnace doesn't reach desired temperature

On the thermostat if its a manual on then pop the cover off and look for a small dial with numbers on it. Take and move it tpoi a higher number than whats it is set at. Its called a heat anticipater and is supppose to make it so that the unit does not oveshoot or under shoot like what your experiencing. If its a digital oine then you are going to have to configure the setting in the insdtallers menu.

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

SOURCE: need to know if indoor unit fan shuts off at desired temperature

The MSZA12NA does not shut off when the set room temperature is reached. With your unit set to cooling only, push up the temperature to 90 degrees when it is 75 in the room and see if your fan has shut off. If not, get yourself a window unit with an energy saving feature that will turn off the fan for the 3 months while you are gone.

Posted on May 26, 2009

SOURCE: I am renting a house which has a Trane heat pump

If it is a heat pump it may not have enough oomph.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

  • 674 Answers

SOURCE: air conditioner compressor will not shut off.

Remove the cover on the outside unit that covers the circuit board and contactor and capacitor. Then start the unit and set the thermostat so that the unit cuts off. Then go back to the outside unit and see if the contactor is still pulled in and the unit is running. Next open the breaker and see if the contactor drops out. If it doesn't your contactor could be stuck. Try to free it or replace it. If not the problem could be in the circuit board.

Posted on May 29, 2010

Testimonial: "contacter was welded shut. replaced contacter.working good now."

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1 Answer

My furnace will not reach the desired house temperature in one cycle. It will run for several minutes, shut off, and repeat. It eventually reaches the desired temp but it take a long time and I feel it...

There are a few different reasons for short cycling of a furnace.
1. Inadequate air flow. Not enough air moving through the furnace can cause it to overheat and trip the high temperature limit switch.
check to see that all registers are open and returns are not blocked.
2 Improper heat anticipator setting on thermostat. Some thermostats have a heat anticipator and too low of a setting can cause short cycling.

4 Partially blocked drain hoses. If the condensate backs up into the furnace it can shut the flame off and then when the condensate drains the furnace starts again. Check all drain hoses to make sure they are clear.
These are just some of the possible reasons for short cycling .
Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Steps to replace thermostat on uline 2015 wc

I have a Model 2015WCS wine cooler. The thermostat control and sensor is part number 2767-1. You can find it from a number of suppliers. I called U-Line to get these instructions. They worked! I cannot stress how important it is to work carefully and slowly so you do not kink or crimp the new sensor or damage any of the refrigeration lines.
UNPLUG THE UNIT! Remove the knob and plastic front panel, and remove the back panel. Do this is a place with lots of room. Remove all of the shelves. Slightly loosen the two screws in the bottom center of the evaporator plate, inside and at the back of the storage unit. These screws secure the coiled sensing portion of the temperature sensor. Remove the screws and standoffs at the bottom of the Evaporator Plate and gently slide out the sensor. Working between the back of the unit and the back of the inside compartment, feed the coiled portion out through the hole.

Next come the HARD part. The control is mounted with two screws onto a housing within the unit. However, its removal is blocked by the mounting bracket for the button switch for the light. This button switch bracket is either riveted or spot welded onto the base of the unit. The U-Line guy told me to drill out the rivets to make room for removing the control. It's tough metal, but very possible! You will need some screws or a good pop rivet tool to re-mount the bracket when you are done. I ended up making fairly large holes and used 1/4 x 20 flat head screws.
Lay the unit on its side so you can work on the bottom side. You may wish to remove the door before doing this, or be sure the hinge in on the floor so the door will lay open. Locate where the rivets or spot welds are on the bottom outside, and drill them out to release the bracket. Take care not to drill the button switch.
After the bracket is out of the way, remove the two screws holding the Control, and feed the sensor through the back of the unit while pulling on the control. Note the path it takes for reinstalling the new one.
Now you are ready for the new part. CAREFULLY extend the sensor to its full length by gently uncoiling it. Feed it through the ho;le on the side of the housing that holds the control and then to the back of the unit. DO NOT MOUNT THE CONTROL YET. Feed the coiled end through the hole in the back of the unit. Reach inside and direct the sensor coil back into its bracket and tighten the screws. Replace the Evaporator Plate mounting screws and standoffs.
Now you are ready to mount the control in place. Using at least two screws and lock washers, secure the button switch bracket back in its original position.
Stand the unit back up and replace the back. Plug it in to verify that it is working. Replace the plastic front panel, knob, and shelves. Enjoy some wine!

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2 Answers

U-line 2015 thermostat

You can order the part from Changing it out it very simple. just pull the machine out where you can get to the front and the back easily. Once you have that done open the machine and take the two screws that are in the back wall at the bottom low center area. This will release the thermostat line inside the machine. Now just lay down in front and take the thermostat out and pull your line to you and your done.

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My A/C freezing its coils, while the fans keep running. The AC unit (outside) keep running and never stop caused the coils freezing. It doesn't matter when I turn off or set it to Cool position, the...

Sounds like the contactor in the condensing unit is stuck. That is why it will not turn off when the thermostat is satisfied. If the inside air handler is not blowing and the outside condensing unit is running, then this will cause the inside coils to freeze up rather quickly.
The contactor is located in the outside condensing uni in the electrical compartment.
If it is sticking it will need to be replaced.

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it sounds like you have a bad temperature controller thermostat or your temperature sensor inside the oven, (a metal rod attached to a thin metal wire) is not in its proper place. It clips into connectors located at the back center of the oven itself.

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My Kitchen Aid KSCS25INSS will defrost the freezer up to 57 degrees sometimes twice a day. I cannot use the ice maker because I end up with a large block of ice after one or two days.

57 degrees is pretty hot. If it occurs on a regular basis day to day, it sounds like a defrost cycle malfunction.
There is a calrod heater imbedded in the evaporator coil behind the panel in the freezer compartment. It comes on approx. 2 times a day. The compressor is shut off and the calrod (which looks a lot like the bake element in an electric range) is turned on. It gets quite hot, but a thermostat mounted on top of the evaporator coil, shuts the heater down when the coil reaches approx 50 degrees. If this thermostat ( often called a limiter ) fails to open in time, the temperature in the freezer coil box can easily reach 100 degrees or more. If so, this could be your problem. Remove the rear panel in the freezer compartment aand locate this small disc thermostat and replace with new.

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1 Answer

Thermostat takes too long to cool down 1 degree

Thermostats don't cool or heat. They are just the control device that tells the furnance or AC to operate and register the present temperature and tell the furnance or A/C to shut off, once the desired temperature has been reached.

Most programmable thermostats will take at least 1-2 weeks to "learn" how long to run the furnance or A/C in order to reach the desired temperatures you've programmed into it, for the time you want it be that temperature. Variables such as extremely hot days and higher humidity will also affect your cooling system.

Give it a little time to self-learn and it should adjust itself after a week or two of operation. You might want to take some time to review and familiarize yourself with the owners manual to see what Hunter advises for setting up and using the thermostat.

You may need to have your A/C checked to see if you're running low on freon, or need to have the coils cleaned, need to change the air filter, etc.

Hope this helps and best regards!

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Behind the unit near the floor level, is a yellow wire with a black bulb at the end. This is the actual sensor for returning air. If there is cool air infiltrating the area where it is located, it will keep the unit running until the return air reaches temperature. You could also have a bad sensor but highly unlikely. Make sure there is no air infiltration influencing the sensor. Also, you can unclip the sensor and pull out a few more inches of wire to locate it higher up away from the floor. Tie it up with a wire tie.

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