Question about Jenn-Air Ovens
1-800 # should be on the inside of oven
They may beable to send one to you if YOU can install or refer a local applaince repair shop for the unit ?
Posted on Nov 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It seems you have a stuck button. Here is a list of fault codes:
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes
Code Condition Check/Repair F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (this problem is usually the touch pad) F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) F2 Oven too hot Replace relay board (if present) or oven temperature sensor F3 or F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F6 Missing AC signal Check for proper voltage F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or attempt to un-stick button F8 Analog/Digital supervisory Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F9 Door latch supervisory Check door lock circuit or replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor.
The display board apparently has a weak spot in the design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources)
Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them.
TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.
My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, Using as small a soldering iron as you can find De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed.
If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to email@example.com and I’ll try to help.
Thanks for this site..
Link to Photo sequence of capacitor replacement (Captions still will not link):
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
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This indicates an open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you want to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more than this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
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