Question about Mcculloch 16" Electric Chain Saw Mcc3516f
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You would pay the manual about the price of new saw. These are made in china and usually motor or the switch blows. Check that the voltage pass thru the switch and if so and it dont work, throw it away.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
Testimonial: "not what I was asking about. I wanted a user manual for mcculloch eager ****** 300s-16 electric chain saw. You people can't read."
Adjust the chain until you can pull on it and it will come away from the bar but will not hang from the bar. If that does not solve your problem then the chain or drive gear is worn out. If the oiler is not working it is for sure worn out.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
There are no hard and fast settings.
A good initial starting point for the "H" and "L" needle valves are 1.5 turns CCW from lightly seated.
The "T" adjustment enters here (idle speed) and there is no initial setting without a tachometer, depending on age of your saw there may not be any initial "T" setting.
The "L" needle is primarily idle performance (not speed) and acceleration to full throttle.
The "H" is mostly performance at speed, but all are interconnected.
Start with a fresh mix of fuel. Put ALL of the old mix in any 4 cycle engine and start new. I suggest 50:1 regardless of what your manual says.
• CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; once marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
• Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
• Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
Now we adjust for performance. The best performance adjustment procedure I have found follows.
Madsens Shop & Supply, Inc. Carburetor adjustment (All saws homeowner and professional are the same)
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm Read step 4 (allow it warm before making adjustments).
• There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
I am going to inject a little philosophy here. Undetected air leaks and defective fuel delivery systems account for most chainsaw failures. Constant adjustment of needle valves can easily camouflage more serious problems that result in burning up your saw. A sudden need for an adjustment is often indicative of a larger problem.
If push comes to shove a local saw shop (I prefer Stihl mechanics and do not own a Stihl) should be considered.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Thank You for using FixYa.
Posted on Jul 09, 2010
Most often there is a dust-oil clog in the bottom of the bar slot which closes an oil passage between the bar slot and the hole drilled half way through the side of the bar. This provides a passage between the thin shim plate with the two bar bolt holes beside the bar and through to the oil tank or pump output. You can remove the bar and chain and punch out the blockage in the bar with a paper clip if the chain is removed. Make sure the wire can be pushed from the bar slot right through the side hole in the bar. A gravity feed chainsaw should leak right out into the slot of the shim plate, a button pumper should squirt out there with the bar removed. With a button pumper you may have a tiny check valve in the line or the push button to take apart, replace the spring or unstick the ball inside the check valve. This is why they went to the gravity feed oil system which just leaks in there and gets picked up by the bottom of the links as the chain races past the passage between the bar side hole and the chain slot.
Posted on Mar 24, 2011
Testimonial: "I checked as you suggested and I removed the pump from the crank shaft and the plastic gear is stripped. Now I can not find a pump. Thanks Jim"
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