a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Inspect bench bolts. Tighten bolts ... Inspect butterfly arm mounting screws fortightness. Tighten if ... replaced if the nylon jacket is missing, is damaged in any way, has pulled or shrunk .... Bolt weight guard/press column (F) to mainframe (B) (3/8-16 x 3/4 hex ... end to the leg developer, securing it with a plastic hole plug. FIG.
Prepare to oil by filling a grease gun with lithium grease. Check your owner's manual for the exact type of grease for your unit.
Locate where it is you need to lubricate. Focus on the bearings, free-moving joints and attachments with moving parts such as handle bars, wheels, pedals arms and guide rails. Go to each location one by one when greasing.
Unfasten the bolts or screws that hold the joint or attachment that you wish to lubricate.
Grease each bolt and screw liberally. Tighten each bolt and screw back into its place when finished.
Wipe away any excess grease Loose Pedals
Kneel next to the left side of the elliptical's base. Use the Phillips screwdriver to tighten the two screws located in the center of the left pedal.
Use the Allen wrench to remove the bolt securing the left pedal arm to the pedal leg and body arm. Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the rear end of the pedal leg to the crank arm.
Pull the end of the pedal leg free of the crank arm. Wipe the crank arm clean, then apply a fresh coating of machine grease or silicone lubricant. Replace the end of the pedal leg back onto the crank arm and use the previously removed screw to secure it back into place.
Join the front end of the left pedal arm to the ends of the pedal leg and body arm. Use the previously removed bolt to connect the pieces together.
Move to the right side of the elliptical and repeat the above steps on the right pedal arm
1Disconnect the ground battery cable using a wrench.
Loosen the front wheel lugs located on the same side of the upper ball joint you need to replace. Use a lug wrench.
Raise that same front wheel off the ground using a floor jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.
Finish removing the tire.
Take the cotter pin off the upper ball joint stud holding the steering knuckle arm. Use a pair of nose pliers.
Remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and deep socket.
Loosen the two bolts securing the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Use a wrench to hold the bolt head as you loosen the retaining nut with a ratchet and socket.
Pull the control-arm ball joint off the steering knuckle arm. You may need to use a Pitman arm puller to free the ball joint.
Finish removing the two bolts from the back of the upper control arm and lift the upper control arm off the vehicle.
Install the New Upper Control Arm
Set the new upper control arm in place and install the two bolts and retaining nuts to secure the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Remember the bolt heads should point inward toward the shock absorber with the retaining nuts on the outside of the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the bolts yet.
11Insert the control-arm ball joint on the steering knuckle arm and start the castle nut with your hand over the ball joint stud. Do not tighten the nut yet.
Tighten the two bolts on the mounting bracket to 67-foot lbs. (91 Nm) using a torque wrench. Hold the bolts with a backup wrench as you tighten the retaining nuts with the torque wrench.
Tighten the ball-joint castle nut to 45-foot lbs. (61 Nm) using the torque wrench, ratchet extension and deep socket.
Install a new cotter pin through the joint-ball stud hole using the nose pliers. If necessary, tighten the castle nut just a few degrees to clear the stud hole through one of the castle nut slots.
Mount the tire on the wheel assembly and install the wheel lugs using the lug wrench.
Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
Detachthe ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine greaseover the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.2 Removethe bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from thearms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms.On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals tothe arms.3 Removethe bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach theswing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over theaxles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.
Hi, to replace the serpentine belt is a bit of work, but not really that hard. You will need to take off the right front tire. Once the tire is off, you will see a "panel" with screws on it..4 or 5 i think. You will need to remove this. You will need to unhook the cables from your battery, then loosen up your alternator. You will need to take off the top motor mount. There are 2 bolts holding it to the right fender well at right top. and I beleive 3 bolts holding it to the motor mount support. You will notice a bracket right under your alternator. 2 bolts you can reach from the top, 1 bolt you will need to go up under from the bottom. There should be a "window" just to the back of where your tire goes where you can reach through to get the last bolt to the bracket.
Use a wrench to raise the tension bar up, and then the belt will slip right off.
had a similar problem. The engine mount bolt that grounded the PTO black ground wire was loose- causing the pto to work erratically. To see this bolt (13mm i think) you will have to lie on your back and look under the machine. It is above the front steering arm of the right tire.If the wire is dangling you will need a new bolt.Thanks for the previous posts ;)
Fig. Use support bracket tool J-23028-01 mounted on a jack to support the rear lower control arm
Remove or disconnect the following:
Electronic Ride Control (ELC) air tube from the shockTwo bolts securing the shock to the control armTrunk trim to gain access to the shock upper mounting nuts.Cover, the two nuts, and the reinforcement from the top of the shockShock from the vehicle
Fig. Remove the cover to gain access to the upper shock absorber mounting components-rear suspension
Fig. Exploded view of the lower shock absorber mounting to the knuckle assembly-rear suspension
To install: Install or connect the following:
Shock, reinforcement, and the two nuts. Tighten the mounting nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).Shock coverTrunk trimShock-to-control arm bolts and tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)ELC air tube to the shock.Tire and wheel assembly
A total of four shipping bolts need to be installed: two longer ones on the bottom and two shorter ones on the top. Each shipping bolt consists of a metal screw inside a plastic cylinder which fits between the washer suspension and the back of the washer cabinet. The metal screw pulls the washer suspension against the plastic cylinder which, in turn, is pulled against the rear cabinet, thereby securing the suspension against the back of the cabinet. The Whirlpool part number is 285955. These bolts can be ordered from various suppliers for $20 - $30. To install these bolts, you will need a 13 mm wrench and a flashlight so you can see where the bolts screw into on the washer suspension.
The procedure is as follows: 1. On the back of the washer, remove the 4 plastic covers over the oblong shipping bolt holes. Carefully pack these covers with the water and drain hoses as they will be needed when the washer is re-installed in its new location. 2. Using the flashlight as a visual aid, look inside the oblong holes and identify the area on the washer suspension into which the shipping bolts screw. It is a white plastic part that is not directly behind the the shipping bolt holes, but is slightly above that level. 3.Look at the shipping bolts. The bolts described above (Part number 285955) have a a plastic arm at one end . This arm must be sawed-off for installation on older machines. You will have to determine whether or not the arm needs to be removed. 4. Starting with the bottom two holes, carefully slide a shipping bolt through the hole toward the front of the machine. Angle the bolt upward toward the screw mating hole, and carefully guide the bolt into the hole. Use the 13 mm wrench to engage the bolt into the mating hole. 5. Make sure that the plastic end of the bolt is closely seated against the back of the washer cabinet. Using the 13 mm wrench, screw in the lower two bolts, but do not tighten at this time. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the upper two shipping bolts. 7. After the plastic part of all 4 bolts has been firmly seated against the back of the washer cabinet, carefully tighten all 4 bolts. 8. Go to the front of the washer and push on the drum. The drum will rotate but it should not rock. If that is the case, then you are done.