Question about Gateway Essential 400 PC Desktop

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The plastic case that makes up the outer shell of my laptop computer is badly cracked and the flip up screen is in danger of falling off. Is there any way to replace it without replacing the components.The computer works fine. Thx,Joe

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You can replace the shell if you are comfortable with unscrewing all of the screws from the old one. I would draw the screw layout on a piece of paper first and for each one you unscrew, place it on the paper in the position it came from. That will help you when you put them all back.

If you need a replacement shell and do not have a local source, I would suggest PC Recyclers of Idaho [http://www.pcidaho.com/]. I've purchased parts from them and they've always given me great prices.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The cylindrical structure on the lower of screen along which the screen rotate or you can say along which the flap folds is cracked...what to do now please suggest as soon as possible


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When we lift the Tigershark out of the pool after it has finished its cycle it lets go of all the debris it has picked up. We can't find anything in the manuals to help us. It is very frustrating as it...


With the cleaner out of the pool flip it upside down and remove the bottom lid. Inspect the outer case along the seam where the dark and light color plastics meet. If you find cracks patch them with a two-part epoxy made to repair plastics.

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Check the flaps within the bottom lid itself to be sure they are still installed and functioning properly. A twig of leaf can wedge into the hinge and block the flap from closing allowing debris out of the bag.

Finally, inspect the bag for any holes or wear that could allow debris to escape.

One or more of these issues should be the cause and once corrected your cleaner should operate as it should.

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My incase case for my macbook pro is causing the hinges to crack


I've had the same problem when I had first installed my case. One day, when it was on the table, my friend leaned on it and there was a loud crack, which got me scared. Due to this, the cracking stopped. Turns out, there is a long tab to attach to where the fan opening is. Just flip your mac over, and push down hardly on the edge of the case, this way, it will be fully attached. Incase makes things perfectly, so if you don't install it correctly, it wont work. Hope this helps. Also, these instructions are not found anywhere.

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Will a crack in the shell make the heater leak??


If the metal has cracked, it is only a matter of thime before it starts to leak. I wouldn't use it unless you are home. If it does leak, it can cause the heater to overheat and be a potential fire hazard

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Noisey during spin


yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.


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The I9 has a defect. The outer screen, which is glued, does not allow for expansion. My screen cracked after only a week of light use. My phone was NEVER DROPPED, and developed a small crack near the edge. Within two hours, the crack expanded to the other side of the screen. The phone i have was manufactured in the same month I got it. Motorola has some issues with their warranty system, and it only works sporatically. This phone will most likely be recalled.

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The plastic casing (tub shell) around the stainless spin basket should not become worn unless the spin basket is hitting the outer shell. From my past experience, this is usually caused by a cracked or broken spin basket support (spider) arm on the back of the spin basket, or a shot tub bearing (which is also behind the spin basket). The bearing is actually part of the rear tub shell and is molded into the plastic. It cannot be replaced separately and requires the replacmeent of the shell.

If the spin basket supports become broken, the basket becomes off balance and rubs against the outer shell. This results in excessive vibration, which may be the reason why the support shocks were broken. No...this is not normally expected. Unfortnately, this is not a simple or inexpensive repair, either. If you have a service plan, or warranty coverage, I would recommend pursuing that as a repair option. If you wish to repair this yourself, I can post a link for you to follow, but it is expensive. This will usually require the replacement of the following parts:

Spin Basket
Rear Tub Shell (if bearing is bad)
Front Tub Shell (if spin basket caused significant damage)
Support Shocks (I would recommend replacing all 4)

Optional:
Drive Belt Pulley (can become warped or bent)
Drive Belt (if showing signs of wear)
Rubber Door Bellow (if vibration as caused damage to the rubber)

You can go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number to get prices for everything if you like. Everything can be found under the "Tub and Basket Parts" heading, with the exception of the rubber door bellow. It can be located under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading.

I know none of this sounds like positive news, but I do hope you find some of this information helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance.

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I have tried plenty of ways but this plastic cant be pasted easily and the hinge crack the junction again so basically you need a new hinge piece, something saddly cant be bought alone, you need to buy a whole shell.

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You can use the DS carefully meanwhile the top part dont get completelly out of place.

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