I have a electrolux ew 901 f , the outer door clip as come loose when i went to have a look , there is a long spring , a pin , and the clip with small spring attached so where does the long go x please can u help ?

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Remove the door spring, old hinge pins and bushings:
1.Remove the retainer clip on the top of the top hinge pin with a screwdriver and pliers. Start to wiggle it loose with the tip of the screwdriver and then grab it and work it loose with the pliers.
2.Remove the door spring behind the hinge - between the hinge and the door itself - by locating the end of the spring and inserting the screwdriver between it and the hinge. Pry, using the door as leverage, until the spring pops out.
3.Spray penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the pins, at the bushings, to make it easier to hammer the pin out.
4.Place your long extension on the top of the pin and carefully hammer down to dislodge the pin, taking care not to hit your windshield or another part of your vehicle.
Now, it's time to grab your assistant!
5.Remove the retainer clip on the bottom of the bottom hinge pin with a screwdriver and pliers. Start to wiggle it loose with the tip of the screwdriver and then grab it and work it loose with the pliers.
6.Place your jack to hold up the end of the door to support the weight when the bottom pin comes out. Have your assistant hold the door so that it stays on the jack and doesn't fall. Pro tip: You can use a 2 x 4 piece of wood to better distribute the door's weight.
7.Spray penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the pin, at the bushings, to make it easier to hammer the pin out.
8.Carefully hammer up from the bottom to dislodge the pin, making sure your helper is holding the door firmly on the jack to support the weight. You may need to have your assistant gently wiggle the door if the pin is binding on the hinge. You can also grip the top of the pin with pliers once you start to work it loose and tap on your pliers with the hammer to fully dislodge and remove the pin. Pro tip: You can use a rag to protect the paint on your door by covering the area with it before hammering upward on the pin.
9.Use your flathead screwdriver to pry the old bushings out.
Now replace the old hinge pins and bushings and put the door back together:
10.Insert the new bushings, taking care to respect the different sizes and where they are located on each hinge. Pro tip: For the top hinge, the larger bushing goes in the bottom part of the hinge while the smaller bushing goes in the top part of the hinge. For the bottom hinge, the larger bushing goes in the top part of the hinge while the smaller bushing goes in the bottom part of the hinge. In both cases, the head of the hinge bolt goes at the larger of the two bushings.
11.Gently hammer the four bushings into place. Remember that the bushings go in the vehicle part of the hinge, not the door part.
12.With the weight of your door still on the jack, work with your assistant to align the hinges and start to slide the hinge pins into place through the bushings - bottom first, then top. Use a hammer to gently tap at first, then hammer more firmly at the end to fully engage the pins in the new bushings.
13.Place your new retainer clips over the bushings and use your small socket or a small hollow piece of tube to hammer the retainer rings in place, ensuring they are fully seated to keep the pins from coming out.
Reinstalling the door spring with or without a GM door spring tool:
14.If you have the specific GM door spring tool (spring compressor) for replacing the door springs, follow the instructions included with the tool.ORIf you DON'T have the GM spring tool, you can compress the spring in a vice and use plastic zip-ties to keep it compressed while you install it.
Pro tip: Install your three zip-ties loosely before you compress the spring and tighten them once you have the spring in the vice.
Carefully hold the spring by the side, not the ends, in case the zip-ties break. Make sure you wear eye protection as you push the compressed spring into place.Carefully cut two of the zip-ties. It can help to close the door slightly as you do this and also rotate the compressed spring to access the second zip-tie. It is difficult to cut the third zip-tie, but it will quickly break on its own as you open and close the door, popping the spring into place.

You have to pull the inner panel off to get to the nuts holding the handle to the door frame. Probably two rods connecting to the handle, the inside latch rod and the lock rod. Disconnect those and remove the two nuts holding the handle to the door.

The inner door panel is held with one or two or more screws-some may be hidden by plastic tabs-larger screws may hold the arm rest to the panel-and then around the periphery of the panel will be plastic push pins. Slip a putty knife or flat blade screwdriver behind the panel and pry out the pins from the holes in the frame. If you have a crank window handle, you have to remove the handle. It is held on by a spring clip-difficult to remove-slip a rag between the crank handle and the panel and pull it back and forth to dislodge that spring clip. Keep at it until the clip falls out or the handle comes off. When it is off you will see how it is holding the crank handle on. When all screws and plastic pins are out, the panel will be floppy, lift up and off, then disconnect any electrical connections. Now peel back the sheet of plastic from the door frame-this is the water barrier protecting the inside of the panel and the electricals. Do not tear the plastic sheet-when done glue or tape it back to the door frame. With the water barrier out of the way you can see the outer handle.

The tubs are usually hanging on springs or gas struts underneath. One of them could be broken or come loose. Col

The hinges mount inside the oven door, open the door all the way, then move the small clips that are riveted to the hinge to the position opposite of where they sit now... this will hold the hinge springs open. Lift up the door as if to close it, then the hinges will lift out of their slots and you can remove the door... Electrolux Range Stove Oven Door Hinge 318244305

E40 code indicates that the door is not closing all the way.

Check the door latch pin.
It's a spring inside the door that forces it over.
If it's being pushed over quite strongly then it's possible that the door may have moved slightly to the left, causing the fault.
Push the latch pin over and trim a small amount of plastic off the door, where the pin rests against.
This will allow it to move over slightly further and activate the lock.
If the spring in the door is broken, you'll need to replace it.

Hope this helps.. Good luck! :)

Hello,

Lets see if we can help.If you open door slightly and look on the top of the door edge,you will see a metal plate going across the full width of the door.If you gently push this towards the inside of the cooker,pushing from each outer edge,it is held in with 2 spring clips.When you have this clip off the glass will just slide up and out for cleaning.The glass will normally be marked for correct replacement, (eg.To Inside and or top).Be very careful when lifting out glass and also look out for little rubber buffers that protect the glass when it is refitted.

Hope this helps.

ew whirlpool duet steam dryer door will not stay latched and causes dryer to stop

there is no need to remove the side to replace the door seal, just behind the door seal there is a spring clip undo this and fold the seal into the drum were you should see another spring clip undo that as well and the door seal comes out from the front through the hole in the door, to refit a new fold the seal till its inside out and fitted on the inner drum first fit the inner clip then pull it through the door hole and fit the outer spring clip out side the door

Front door flex drive window regulator tightening sequence

1. Lower the glass all the way. Remove the trim panel as described earlier.
2. Gently pull the air and water shields off the door.
3. Remove the 3 nuts that attach the glass to the regulator channel. Then, lower the glass all the way.
4. Remove the outer glass-sealing weatherstrip by disengaging the spring clip tabs from the slots in the outer door panel. To do this, grasp the weatherstrip between the thumb and forefinger on either side of each spring clip. Pull out slightly and then up at each clip until the weatherstrip is free.
5. Work the glass off the mounting studs and remove it through the slot in the top of the lower door.
6. To remove the regulator, drive the center pin of each regulator mounting rivet out with a hammer and drift punch. Then, drill the rivets out with a 1⁄4 in. (6mm) drill.
7. Disengage the regulator arm from the lift plate and then remove the regulator through the access hole in the inside of the door. To install:
   
8. Load the new regulator in through the access hole and engage the access arm with the lift plate. Then, bolt the regulator to the door with 1⁄4 –20 nuts and short screws, making sure these screws will not interfere with regulator operation. Tighten the screws and nuts to 90–115 inch lbs. (10–13 Nm).
9. Install the new glass by lowering it into the door. Position the glass on the mounting studs.
10. Install the outer weatherstrip by sliding the clips into the door panel slots and sliding them downward until they lock.
11. Raise the glass to the top of its travel, then loosely install the 3 retaining nuts. Seat the glass fully in the upper glass run to adjust it, and then tighten the mounting nuts gently.
12. Install the air and water shields and the trim panel as described earlier in this section.

I just adjusted my Electrolux DW springs. The springs are on the bottom sides near the back. They pull on cables that hold the door (via pulleys). The springs can be moved to five different holes to change the tension, but I needed to pull the DW about 2/3 out for side access.