Question about Toshiba "52Z3500 52"" Multi System LCD TV"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: programing my toshiba remote
select your tv and then click on resources and then open up the manual for your tv.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
SOURCE: Code for Magnavox Univ remote
Try one of these codes:
018, 021, 023, 071, 085, 090
If those don't work, respond with the model for the remote and we'll try some others. Also, if remote requires 4 digit codes, just put a 0 in front of each of the above.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
I bought a 52" 1080p 52VR series for $100 dollars off of craigs, Half the screen would flicker at bright colors and then bam, solid lines on exactly half the screen. About three hours later I have a new regza running like a charm. The issue is and I quote "Toshiba, Samsung, Vizo are all ****, they don't have fans and burn out or they have surges from outlets". Removing the back and pointing the fan the modules it delayed the amount of time before flicker occured and was able to pin point which board it was by unpluggin one by one from connection, (psu was working fine) until I came to the T-com board covered by foil on top. I've done wonders with my heat gun (Props to Microsoft and HP as your shortcuts deflected excuses, horrible offshore service, and short warranties made me small fortune on xbox's and dv9000's alone.) ((to Schanoop at microsoft, keep laughing your kids college fund was spent on sweatpants for the homeless)), my 1257 revived and resold laptops and 360's and now 3 flat's all from my "19.95" husky heat gun. Back to the point.
The corners cut today are fans and leaded solder that won't crack or melt. hairlines cause catastrophic problems. I removed the T-con panel (you tube this before you try it and watch it done first) placed chip and pin side up on a marble surface using four 1/4 bolts placed under each fastner slot. yet agian you tube red ring fix with heat gun, but in circular motions heat the points of contact on the board (where chips and connectors meet SF objects, and for about 2 and half minutes heat the cheap solder up to let it reform. Gravity itself will take care of the rest as with the chip facing up (connectors as well) it will sink back fixing any cracks or broken connections. Most improtant, don't touch it, let it fix itself by giving it 45 minute minimum cool down. and thats how I got a 3 thousand dollar TV for one hundred dollars.
Just incase you have the same problem and this didn't fix it, these are the other things I did with the board off. Remove the foil from t-con shield, (i tossed it) and where the ribbons meet the lcd itself, I noticed the distribution boards have small pegs to sit in for fit and restriction. However I'm guessing do to poor ventalation, these boards were warped and refused to stay flat and would pop up and off the pegs. Using tweezers I held them on the pegs and used a buffing wheel off my dremel as a pad to put pressure between the metal frame and the board so it was forced to stay flat and on the peg. second thing I did was handle my t-con (aside from the points it's a tough little board) like an unwanted cat as fell off the tv onto hardwood, I used a 48 watt solder to touch the tips up and accidently solder a SFC to an open circut, couldn't even see the damn switch without a 10x loop, I used a desolder gun to fix the intermitten issue. I am positive however that the problem lied in the solder they use to save costs as it melts at low heat, and when your pushing technology thats running twice as hot because the numbers are bigger make for unique opps for my heat gun. I'll work on a shorter version but after reinstalling, I threw a cpu fan above the t-con and it's been smooth sailing.
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
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