Question about Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Lawnmower Lawn Mower Short Block
You can test the charging system by starting the mower and then unhooking the negative terminal from the batter, if the mower stays running, the charging system is working, if it dies immediately the charging system is faulty, you can also use a tester at the engine to test the voltage at the connectors
Posted on Oct 17, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your oil level. If it is way over full, smell it to see if it smells like gasoline. If it does, you have a carburetor leaking gas into the engine crankcase. If you recently had the mower over on its side for blade changing or inspection, you have gotten oil up on top of the piston and it should burn off in a few minutes of running. Check your air filter to see if it is soaked with oil, replace it if it is.
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Troy-Built Series
Most professional shops no longer drain the oil through a drain plug because of all the covers under the engine. With your Briggs and Stratton engine, the best way is to drain through the dipstick. You can purchase a suction device to **** out the oil, or you can drain it. To drain, place you mower on the tailgate of your truck, or on the picnic table. Grab a drain bucket, remove the dipstick and tilt the handle to the ground. The spark plug should be pointed straight up into the air. Might be a good idea to do a test run before removing the dipstick, so you will know exactly where to hold the bucket. All 20 ounces of oil will drain through the dipstick in about a minute if the engine has been warmed up. Refill with a good quality SAE HD30 weight motor oil. Remember...only 20 ounces. Check the oil level after filling before you start the engine.
Posted on Sep 08, 2010
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the generator is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Sep 14, 2011
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