Question about Garden
No dear it is impossible to solve your problem....it is the not way to solve your problem..just clearly tell me problem what you face....understand..rate it
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
It's more trouble than it's worth to change it over. I would just buy a newer engine and put it on there if you really want it that bad. Riding mower engines can't really handle an upgrade like that without burning them up. It is possible, but I would need pictures of what you've done, and then maybe I could walk you through it. What you are doing is a difficult task in itself, with disasterous possibilities. I will give you as much info as I can, but I'm gonna need to see what you are doing.
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
Sorry, I misunderstood what you are doing. Borrow a multimeter, use it to figure out which ones are your constant power, they go on the + side and the one that is only hot when the ign is on goes to the ign one. The carbon buildup is caused by not having a hot enough plug. Any parts store can help you with this. Just tell them you want to upgrade the heat level of the plug. Someone probably got the plug that looked like the one it's supposed to have in it at some point and you've been matching #'s to that one rather than the right one. If that's not the case, then I'm wrong on that part, but upgrading the heat range of the plug is the best way to get rid of the carbon.
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No automotive coil has just one wire going to it, you have 12 volts and then the trigger for the secondary field collapse, that comes from either points or some sort of point replacement device like an optical sensor or a magnetic trigger/inductive pickup, do you have points?
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
U have to have something like points to make the coil work, even a magneto has points in it, keep the mag but just use the output of the points to switch the coil field to fire the plugs, the point is u need some sort of switch that detects the engine rotation to know when to collapse the coil secondary field.
Good luck on this, but from what you wrote I doubt this task will be solved over a keyboard, this is hands on type of job..
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I haven't gone to the points yet because it had spark when it came in, the thing ran, ran rough but it ran. Was rough and way low on power, this thing has had this problem 3 or 4 times over the past few years and the owner (my neighbor) doesn't really remember what was done other than that every time the fix was something different. She thinks it was the relay on one of the control handles once, coil another time, Something else another... you get the idea, I do know each time the shop who worked on it had the damn thing for over a week so I suspect they just threw parts at it until they got it to run and didn't really know what was happening. I have heard from several posts that the Kawasaki's are notorious for coils failing with these exact symptoms so I took a stab at it. I am an automotive guy so not familiar whith this whole magneto style system. I checked for resistance on coils before I did anything and they seemed ab out right, plugs were almost new, just a little carbon fluff, both looked same. I just hesitate to dig in as I would rather just try this and leave the under flywheel alone, (is where everything else seems to be and I hate having to figure the damn thing out myself. Hell I don't even have the point specs. Just what I see for general settings on B&S and Kohler in a Haynes manual I have. Guessing from there.
I assume you are refering to the center electrode on the plug at the center of the insulator (inside the combustion chamber?) The plug gap is good, I tested the output form the coils and am not really getting anything and because the thing came in running more or less I think it is more likely I am hooking something up wrong. I pulled the coils (just the lead coming form the ignition) and connected that to each coil +, went from - terminal to ground at the old coil body. Seemed the logical thing to do. Would this be correct? There is only one wire coming out to the coils, same wire to each even so they are firing together. If I go under to the electronic ignition etc. I need to understand what is what as I am hesitant to just start hooking things up as I know that module is serious bucks.
Mower is Yazoo w/KAW. FD500 2 cyl. Weak spark, thing is running very rough, both plugs showing much carbon. Been repeated issue everytime someone fixes it they do something different. I read the coils are weak spot and fix was to convert to automotive coils, I see no points or ignition, just coils. How do I fix this or can I do the automotive coil deal?
I am abount to sit down with the chassis wiring diagram. I finally pulled the flywheel to look for points, non there, just the stator? Charging stuff. I finally got enough shrouds off to look at the external wiring and see no ignition anywhere, 1 wire to what looks like the carb and one with a Y going to the two original coils, these have the usual soft iron frame and the magnet on the flywheel. Only one lead to the coils and I think it is 12 volts. I guess at this point what I am wondering is: is the only thing firing the coils the pulsing mag field or am I missing cam/points/pickup and ignition somewhere I haven't found yet? I always thought the magnet/iron core deal was just to intensify the spark by boosting the e field and that something else did the triggering. The thing that makes me think this is that the coils each have 1 lead going to them and nothing else and these are from the same wire so cannot be carrying timing info unless the darn thing is firing both plugs at same time, and just wasting the spark on the exhaust cycle.
I had it apart to pulling the flywheel off, all I found in there is the Stator? Ring of coils that I think is actually the charging system, 2 fairly big leads out to a flat pack of something encapsulated on the side of one cylinder head has 3 wires to it, this is a grey one smaller than the other two and heads off into the wiring harness and forward. (This is all on a ZTR mower, hydraulic drive etc.) All of this looks about as sophisticated as stone knives and bear skins. The main wiring harness is a collection of unlabeled relays and switches for all the safety stuff to keep users from running the deck w/o being in the seat and such. Wiring diagram is for the chassis and doesn't make much sense as half the stuff is not even labeled and they change color codes of wires in mid stride at will. No mention of ignition or anything going to the motor, Nothing specific, looks like someone took a prototype and drew up a wiring diagram from something hatched without a motor and that became the official wiring diagram for a generic mower platform. I am going to clean all the gunk from around the engine but for now all I see is what must be the low oil shut off near the sump and the previously mentioned wires. Nothing else going to where points would be. I figured I would see a wire or two going to points and an ignition module on something of this vintage. I was hoping to find someone familiar with these Kaw. engines and their layouts. Everyone seems to just muddle through this stuff with no documentation, I was brought up different on 70's smog controlled cars with primitive FI and relays and sensors everywhere trying to meet emission specs back then. Is when the wiring diagrams went to color to because too complex to follow all the wires.
This is all a non starter, I finally got the manual I was looking for in the first place. My worst fears were realized, this is a basic HW failure, either the coils or wiring is the problem, this machine has almost 600 hours and the coils are original as well as most of the relays and wiring. This system uses a magneto (pure design) no points, no real ignitor, just a transister in the coil and the magnetic field from the flywheel magnet going by to fire it. lead is for shorting to ground to stop the engine. plus a diode to protect the trans. No moving parts, no points, no breaker, no sensor for crank position, uses the flywheel magnet for timing. No one has been even close on this one and I finally figured out what is going on. Tomorrow I am going to figure out what is really the bad part and place an order. The part that sucks is the coils are like 50 each because of the transistor but it is not worth the trouble to completely rengineer the ignition. Not hard to do just time consuming, I used to build race cars, I think I can do this one but it is for a friend not my own fun project. I'll save a project like this for the next good ZTR I buy with a blown motor when I take a winter putting it back together better than new.
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