Question about Garden

4 Answers

I am trying to convert a late 90's Kaw. FD500V 2 cyl vert. mower from the stock coils to automotive style coils, only 1 wire to coil nothing else, 3+ volts static w/ig. on. Tried to just put the new coils in place of stock (yes it eliminates the magneto bit) and I think this is electronic ignition but no spark. I have heard of this being done by several but everyine I worked with has 2 wires to each and it was simple. Any help?

Posted by on

  • 4 more comments 
  • mike_crawley Apr 23, 2009

    I haven't gone to the points yet because it had spark when it came in, the thing ran, ran rough but it ran. Was rough and way low on power, this thing has had this problem 3 or 4 times over the past few years and the owner (my neighbor) doesn't really remember what was done other than that every time the fix was something different. She thinks it was the relay on one of the control handles once, coil another time, Something else another... you get the idea, I do know each time the shop who worked on it had the damn thing for over a week so I suspect they just threw parts at it until they got it to run and didn't really know what was happening. I have heard from several posts that the Kawasaki's are notorious for coils failing with these exact symptoms so I took a stab at it. I am an automotive guy so not familiar whith this whole magneto style system. I checked for resistance on coils before I did anything and they seemed ab out right, plugs were almost new, just a little carbon fluff, both looked same. I just hesitate to dig in as I would rather just try this and leave the under flywheel alone, (is where everything else seems to be and I hate having to figure the damn thing out myself. Hell I don't even have the point specs. Just what I see for general settings on B&S and Kohler in a Haynes manual I have. Guessing from there.

  • mike_crawley Apr 23, 2009

    I assume you are refering to the center electrode on the plug at the center of the insulator (inside the combustion chamber?) The plug gap is good, I tested the output form the coils and am not really getting anything and because the thing came in running more or less I think it is more likely I am hooking something up wrong. I pulled the coils (just the lead coming form the ignition) and connected that to each coil +, went from - terminal to ground at the old coil body. Seemed the logical thing to do. Would this be correct? There is only one wire coming out to the coils, same wire to each even so they are firing together. If I go under to the electronic ignition etc. I need to understand what is what as I am hesitant to just start hooking things up as I know that module is serious bucks.

  • mike_crawley Apr 23, 2009

    Mower is Yazoo w/KAW. FD500 2 cyl. Weak spark, thing is running very rough, both plugs showing much carbon. Been repeated issue everytime someone fixes it they do something different. I read the coils are weak spot and fix was to convert to automotive coils, I see no points or ignition, just coils. How do I fix this or can I do the automotive coil deal?

  • mike_crawley Apr 23, 2009

    I am abount to sit down with the chassis wiring diagram. I finally pulled the flywheel to look for points, non there, just the stator? Charging stuff. I finally got enough shrouds off to look at the external wiring and see no ignition anywhere, 1 wire to what looks like the carb and one with a Y going to the two original coils, these have the usual soft iron frame and the magnet on the flywheel. Only one lead to the coils and I think it is 12 volts. I guess at this point what I am wondering is: is the only thing firing the coils the pulsing mag field or am I missing cam/points/pickup and ignition somewhere I haven't found yet? I always thought the magnet/iron core deal was just to intensify the spark by boosting the e field and that something else did the triggering. The thing that makes me think this is that the coils each have 1 lead going to them and nothing else and these are from the same wire so cannot be carrying timing info unless the darn thing is firing both plugs at same time, and just wasting the spark on the exhaust cycle.

  • mike_crawley Apr 24, 2009

    I had it apart to pulling the flywheel off, all I found in there is the Stator? Ring of coils that I think is actually the charging system, 2 fairly big leads out to a flat pack of something encapsulated on the side of one cylinder head has 3 wires to it, this is a grey one smaller than the other two and heads off into the wiring harness and forward. (This is all on a ZTR mower, hydraulic drive etc.) All of this looks about as sophisticated as stone knives and bear skins. The main wiring harness is a collection of unlabeled relays and switches for all the safety stuff to keep users from running the deck w/o being in the seat and such. Wiring diagram is for the chassis and doesn't make much sense as half the stuff is not even labeled and they change color codes of wires in mid stride at will. No mention of ignition or anything going to the motor, Nothing specific, looks like someone took a prototype and drew up a wiring diagram from something hatched without a motor and that became the official wiring diagram for a generic mower platform. I am going to clean all the gunk from around the engine but for now all I see is what must be the low oil shut off near the sump and the previously mentioned wires. Nothing else going to where points would be. I figured I would see a wire or two going to points and an ignition module on something of this vintage. I was hoping to find someone familiar with these Kaw. engines and their layouts. Everyone seems to just muddle through this stuff with no documentation, I was brought up different on 70's smog controlled cars with primitive FI and relays and sensors everywhere trying to meet emission specs back then. Is when the wiring diagrams went to color to because too complex to follow all the wires.

  • mike_crawley Apr 24, 2009

    This is all a non starter, I finally got the manual I was looking for in the first place. My worst fears were realized, this is a basic HW failure, either the coils or wiring is the problem, this machine has almost 600 hours and the coils are original as well as most of the relays and wiring. This system uses a magneto (pure design) no points, no real ignitor, just a transister in the coil and the magnetic field from the flywheel magnet going by to fire it. lead is for shorting to ground to stop the engine. plus a diode to protect the trans. No moving parts, no points, no breaker, no sensor for crank position, uses the flywheel magnet for timing. No one has been even close on this one and I finally figured out what is going on. Tomorrow I am going to figure out what is really the bad part and place an order. The part that sucks is the coils are like 50 each because of the transistor but it is not worth the trouble to completely rengineer the ignition. Not hard to do just time consuming, I used to build race cars, I think I can do this one but it is for a friend not my own fun project. I'll save a project like this for the next good ZTR I buy with a blown motor when I take a winter putting it back together better than new.

×

4 Answers

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

  • Expert
  • 199 Answers

No dear it is impossible to solve your problem....it is the not way to solve your problem..just clearly tell me problem what you face....understand..rate it

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

  • Expert
  • 183 Answers

It's more trouble than it's worth to change it over. I would just buy a newer engine and put it on there if you really want it that bad. Riding mower engines can't really handle an upgrade like that without burning them up. It is possible, but I would need pictures of what you've done, and then maybe I could walk you through it. What you are doing is a difficult task in itself, with disasterous possibilities. I will give you as much info as I can, but I'm gonna need to see what you are doing.

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

  • Calvin Hart
    Calvin Hart Apr 24, 2009

    Sorry, I misunderstood what you are doing. Borrow a multimeter, use it to figure out which ones are your constant power, they go on the + side and the one that is only hot when the ign is on goes to the ign one. The carbon buildup is caused by not having a hot enough plug. Any parts store can help you with this. Just tell them you want to upgrade the heat level of the plug. Someone probably got the plug that looked like the one it's supposed to have in it at some point and you've been matching #'s to that one rather than the right one. If that's not the case, then I'm wrong on that part, but upgrading the heat range of the plug is the best way to get rid of the carbon.

×

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Garden Master
  • 75,005 Answers

No automotive coil has just one wire going to it, you have 12 volts and then the trigger for the secondary field collapse, that comes from either points or some sort of point replacement device like an optical sensor or a magnetic trigger/inductive pickup, do you have points?

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 23, 2009

    U have to have something like points to make the coil work, even a magneto has points in it, keep the mag but just use the output of the points to switch the coil field to fire the plugs, the point is u need some sort of switch that detects the engine rotation to know when to collapse the coil secondary field.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 25, 2009

    Good luck on this, but from what you wrote I doubt this task will be solved over a keyboard, this is hands on type of job..

×

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 1,383 Answers

If u not get spark u have to adjust point on elecr\tronic ingnition then u can ger spark.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • kishor
    kishor Apr 23, 2009

    sir
    just set plugs top pin and u get spoark easily. adjust space between top pin and surface.


×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What is the firing order for a 1996 Hyundai Excel and which leads go on which coil pack.


Coil lead #1 on far left goes to #1 cyl.
Coil lead #2 Goes to #3 cyl.
Coil lead #3 Goes to #4 cyl
Coil lead #4 goes to #2 cyl thats looking from front of car. from left to right

Sep 14, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I am having trouble fiquiring out which wire goes to which plug. The wires are different lengths and the correct wire length has to go specifically with the correct plug. I have the firing order dia


The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6
Cyl #1 is front left when looking at engine front to back
left coil pack connects to cyls. 5-2
center coil pack connects to cyls. 3-6
right coil pack connects to cyls. 4-1
It doesn't matter which connector on the coil you use just that the cylinder is connected to the proper coil pack (the coil fires both plugs at the same time, twice per each full 4 stroke cycle)
1998 Chevrolet Lumina
3.1 liter V-6 VIN "M" 94760154.gif

7aedc9b8-0448-4420-b824-420afd929143.gif

Dec 20, 2013 | 1998 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

So do i run the wire from coil spot #1 to cylender #1 then coil spot #2 to cyl #4...?


The marks on the coils correspond to the cylinder it goes to

Coil #1 goes to cylinder #1
Coil #2 goes to cylinder #2
Coil #3 goes to cylinder #3
Coil #4 goes to cylinder #4

Feb 17, 2011 | 2005 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Sat on the bike what the firing oder


I think japanese inline fours are the same -

sitting on the bike, from left to right, the cylinders are 1 to 4

one coil fires cyls 1 and 4 and the other fires cyls 2 and 3. you can swap 1 and 4 or 2 and 3, it makes no difference at all, but you can't put the 2-3 coil on cyls 1 or 4 and vice versa... you should be able to put the long spark plug wires on cyls 1 and 4 and the short ones go to cyls 2 and 3.

Dec 17, 2010 | 1977 Suzuki GS 750

1 Answer

Firing order for yamaha xj650 1981 motor cycle


without a manual can you set-up the timing mark on flywheel
an see what cyl is compression stroke to find #1 cly

coil 1 are spark wires 1 and 4 cyl

coil 2 are spark wires 2 and 3 cyl

now if still have trouble then (if same plug connection) switch the around inlet plug on coils form bike wire harness or swap spark wires

Apr 10, 2009 | 1981 Yamaha XJ 650

1 Answer

Gsxr 750 no spark how do i test cdi


I've this data from my 1986 engine!

Under the left hand side cover there are 2 2-wire connections. One with a green and a black wire, one with a blue and a yellow wire.
Use an ohmmeter at R x 100 between both wires of a connector to check the pick-up coils: resistance must be between 130 and 180 Ohms.

The values of the ignition coil resistances are:
primary coil : 3-5ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1 )
Secundary coil : 25.000 - 45.000 ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1.000 )
For a correct measurement ALL leads must be disconnected ( also the spark plug leads )

The CDI cannot be tested with a simple measurement. Suzuki dealers have a special tool to test CDI boxes.
But checking the pick-up coils and ignition coils good will indicate an defective CDI.

The wires on the CDI:
Blue: PU coil 1 ( cyl 1-4 )
Yellow: PU coil 1
Green: PU coil 2 ( cyl 2-3 )
Blue : PU coil 2
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 1-4
White : switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 2-3
Blue/yellow: switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4 ( and signal to tachometer )
Blue/white : ground

Thus, you must have +12V on both Orange/white leads.

Mar 15, 2009 | 1992 Suzuki GSX-R 750 WN

2 Answers

2001 ford taurus p0301 and p0303


You are mis fireing on cyl 1 and 3 if you replaced plugs and wires and coil this is going to be a fuel injector issue or valve issue. See if you can swap the injectors with known good cyl. and see if it changes. Or have a shop do a fuel injector service on it to see if it helps. It may be to late for the fuel injector service.

Mar 01, 2009 | 2001 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Dead cylinders 2003 sebring


it sounds like you may have the wires on the wrong coil. It should be #1 on the #4 coil, and the #3 wire on the #2 coil. you probably have them backwards so 1 and 3 are firing on the exhaust stroke.
the firing order is 1-3-4-2.
they should be hooked like this.
82c8490.jpg

3ddfc56.jpg

Jan 23, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler Sebring

Not finding what you are looking for?
Garden Logo

Related Topics:

183 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Garden Experts

Dennis Key
Dennis Key

Level 3 Expert

2475 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

10934 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

74945 Answers

Are you a Garden Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...