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I replaced old gas lines and now gas pores out of carburator,switched the lines to other end of carburator and now it pores out of muffler

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  • jorgegeorgec Apr 23, 2009

    i had the tiller started and it ran great,lines give out

  • josh1111 May 11, 2010

    does it run at all or does the gas come out when you pll the cord?

  • Benelatus May 11, 2010

    Just a question, has the motor been standing idle over the winter?



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Ok, this sounds like problems with the float valve in the carburrettor float chamber. This will mean the you'll have to dismantle the carburrettor, do you feel competent to do this?

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

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THE RE-ATTACH YOUR SPARK PLUG AND SPARK PLUG WIRE AND TRY STARTING THE ENGINE AGAIN. IT MAY TAKE SEVERAL PULLS TO GET THE EXTRA GAS IN THE SPARK HOLE TO BE USED UP BEFORE YOU START TO HEAR IT RUN ALITTLE AND FIRE NOW AND THEN.
IT SHOULD START THEN.
IF THEN IT DOES NOT START, YU HAVE USED UP THE GAS YOU PUT INTO THE ENGINE BY THE CAP FULL METHOD AND IT IS NOT GETTING GAS BY THE GAS TANK SUPPLY.
THIS MEANS THEN YOU HAVE AN IN LINE GAS LINE FILTER THAT IS PLUGGED UP OR YOUR GAS MAY BE OLD IN THE GAS TANK. IF GAS IS NOT OLD AND FILTER IS NOT PLUGGED, THEN YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE GAS LINE LEADING TO THE ENGINE CARBURATOR TO SEE IF IT WILL FLOW FROM THE GAS TANK OUT THE GAS LINE SUPPLY HOSE. IF IT DOES FLOW FREELY, THEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A GAS SUPPLY PROBLEM,
AS LONG AS YOUR GAS IS NOT OLD GAS. OLD GAS WILL GO BAD IN TIME. I'D REPLACE THE GAS WITH NEW AND TRY AGAIN.
IF THIS DOES NOT WORK, THEN ITS CARBURATION CLEAN UP TIME.
IT WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE BY A FEW BOLTS, HOSE'S REMOVED AND TAKEN APART AND CLEANED. TARNISH FROM GAS AND OIL WILL BLOCK THE CARBURATOR JETS AND VACCUM PUMP FROM WORKING PROPERLY. CLEAN AND REPLACE, TRY AGAIN TO START ENGINE.
MORE GAS IN SPARK PLUG HOLE TO GET GOING MAY BE ANOTHER ATEMPT AFTER CARBURATOR CLEAN UP.

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Replaced gas lines on ryobi 31ccweedeater. my have lines crossed. will not crank.


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HOW TO CHANGE FUEL LINE ON McCULL0UGH 2014 CHAIN SAWS.

I have successfully changed the input fuel line by purchasing Tygon tubing from a local lawn equipment dealer. I did not see the box he cut this from, but the tubing I bought measures 0.190" outside diameter. I gave him a piece of the old tubing and he matched it up. A 18 inch piece cost me $1.19.

The routing of the fuel line involves three pieces, one piece from the fuel priming bulb to the carburator is 3 inches long, a piece from the fuel priming bulb to the gas tank is about 4 inches long and the piece from the fuel tank is about 7 inches long. The priming bulb sucks air and fuel from the carburator and dumps it back into the gas tank. Therefore, when you press this repeatedly, gasoline will eventually appear in the bulb when the gas line to the carburator is full of fuel. The bulb may not completely fill, there will always be a little air in the bulb.

The fuel line in has a filter on the end within the fuel tank. If you find this has broken off, as I did, you have to turn the tank upside down and shake the filter and any pieces of broken fuel line out of the tank.

Replacing the fuel lines within the carburator compartment is easy if you remove the carburator first. To work on this you must remove the two screws holding the carburator to the engine. You may need to use a small screw Torx driver, although on my chainsaw, there was also a long straight slot on the head. The line from the priming pump to the carburator goes to the left hand line on the carburetor (as viewing from the top with the blade extending away from you. The input line will go onto the right line on the carburator.

The two lines into the fuel tank are located in the middle of the tank left to right and one about 1/2" above the other. The upper hole is for the fuel intake line. The fuel line passes through this hole and a second hole visible within the tank fill hole.
This was the trickiest hose to replace. How I did it was to use a piece of #12 copper electrical wire stripped out of its insulation. This was fed through the 7-inch Tygon tubing piece until it emerged from the far end. I also found it necessary to put a bull nose end on the Tygon tubing in order to get it to feed into the tank hole visible from the tank fill hole. Why? I don't know, but after 20 minutes of trying to feed the hose (both naked and with the electrical wire inside) into that second hole, I gave it a bull nose on the tubing by careful cutting with sharp scissors and using a sanding block. Perhaps McCullough has a special tool to do this, but a call to their 800 number could not get a knowlegible answer from the parts person.

After the Tygon tubing shows up in the tank fill hole, I pulled it further with needle nose pliers and was able to pull the copper wire back out of the tubing. I then cut the bull nose lead I put on the Tygon tube and installed the filter onto it. I found that a little oil on the nozzle and the carburator lines makes the tubing easier to slip on. The stuff the filter and Tygon tubing back into the tank fill hole and towards the front end of the tank so that it drops into the bottom portion of the tank. After attaching the intake line to the carburator, use the needle nose pliers to pull excess line into the tank.


Reassemble the carburator to the engine and you'll be good for another 10 years of happy chainsawing!

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