Question about Whirlpool Wdt770paym
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the spray holes in the soap manifold are partially blocked and spraying at an angle. try to reduce the water flow pressure at the feed tap and clean the water holes in the soap tray manifold (above the tray).
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool GHW9300PW water leak
The problem, I suspect, is the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot on the door and front of the tub. The key is the fact that it only leaks during fill, or when adding water, and only leaks in the front center. The washer fills through a dispenser tube in the door bellow. Water runs through this tube and into the front portion of the tub. If you pull back the rubber folds of the bellow and look, you may have some rips or tears causing the water to drip out. If there are no obvious signs of wear causing the leak, the other two possibilities would be the dispenser tube not inserted through the bellow all the way. That is, the tube may have slipped behind the bellow a bit and may be causing water to drip BEHIND the bellow instead of through the fill port. Another cause would be if one of the clamps that hold the bellow in place has come loose and is not sealing to the front of the tub, or door frame properly. The following link explains how to replace a door bellow:
I provide this link not only to give you advice in the event that your bellow needs replaced, but also to give you steps necessary to access the bellow in order the check or tighten the clamps. NOTE: An alternate method to checking the rear bellow clamp (located on the front of the tub) is to remove the washer top panel and attempt to access the 7mm clamp nut from the top. The method I have described in the link, however, offers the best access. NOTE: The clamp needs to be seated evenly around the entire perimeter of the tub facing and the clamp should be SNUG. DO NOT overtighten. This will cause damage to the clamp and/or tub facing.
If you require a replacement, you can order on line at appliancepartspros.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading for item number 5. Other items of interest are the rear bellow clamp, item 6 and the front bellow clamp, item 14. In most cases the clamps do not require replacement and can be reused. But, just in case you have to replace them, you now have them identified.
You can perform this repair on your own, if you like and save the cost of expensive labor charges. This is not a difficult repair, if you follow the instructions provided. This repair can usually cost $200 or more (cost of the part, plus the labor) if you have a repairman do it.
The problem could possibly have been caused by excessive vibration, but its hard to tell. Washers mounted on a pedestal can often have vibration problems if the washer is not mounted properly to the pedestal. Make sure all mounting bolts are installed that hold the washer to the pedestal. Make sure they are tight. Also, proper leveling can be an issue. DO NOT attempt to level the feet of the washer on a pedestal. Mount the washer and adjust the feet of the pedestal for proper leveling. Make sure the unit rests on a flat surface and is level front-to-back and side-to-side. A good foundation is also required to ensure the washer does not vibrate. If the flooring under these washers flex (even the slightest) they can cause vibration problems even if it is properly leveled. Flooring in an upstairs laundry room or a mobile home is usually the worst. Another item to consider is the pedestal itself. Look at the back of the pedestal. Is it open in the back, or does it have a back panel that encloses it? If the pedestal back is open, this can cause a condition known as "tin-canning", where the sides of the pedestal waffle in and out and begins to bounce when the washer spins. This can be overcome by purchasing a stiffener kit. Look at your pedestal and let me know if this may be the issue with yours. If so, I can provide you with a part number to order.
If you have further question, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
Hello, the most likely cause is the pump. Whirlpools are direct drive machines which means they do not have a belt. The pump is hooked up directly to the motor. To confirm this is the pump tip the machine back so that you can access it underneath. Make sure you wedge something underneath so it does not fall on you. Next take a look where the pump joins onto the motor shaft, this is where you will find the leak. This pump is a sealed unit so you will have to replace the whole pump. You can do this by removing the inlet and outlet pipes. Next with a screwdriver release the 2 clips holding the pump and remove the pump.....reassemble with new pump in reverse order. Good Luck!! If you have any further question's please feel free to comment. Mike
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
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It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.
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