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Compressor is hot and I hear clicking in back every couple of minutes. I understand that this indicates that the compressor is in a locked up / no start condition. the overload cools enough to reset and tries to start it again and kicks out on amp draw, then the whole cycle starts over again. But, How do I fix it?

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Could be bad start/over load relay, or bad compressor. Try unplugging your frig for say 30 to 40 min then, with your hand on top of a cool compressor, plug the frig back in and see if compressor smoothly vibrates for at least 5 min without becoming very hot or shutting off even though fan continues to run. When the start/over load relay fails, it can apply power to both the compressors start coil AND it's run coil at the same time for to long and it very quickly causes and over load situation. I bet your "Starting Components" (start/over load relay) are bad. Any decent appliance parts store will have what you need. Just take in the make, model, and serial number of tour frig.

Posted on Oct 12, 2013

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SOURCE: Refrigerator compressor won't start.

There is normally an overload relay that protects the motor. If the motor is drawing more current than what is specified by the overload relay then it will trip. After that the bimetal will cool down and will attempt to start again. It is either that the motor is partially shorted (burned) or the starting capacitor is faulty. Before you condemn the compressor/motor (normally in one package), check or replace the starting capacitor. this can easily be done as the capacitor is readily acessible and has only 2 connections. If the capacitor is good, you can check the motor by measuring the resistance of the coil and resistance to ground. The motor coil should not be very low, maybe between 5 to 15 ohms, below that means that there is a short. Resistance of the coil to ground should be more than 500 megaohm, below that means the insulation is already compromised. If the motor/compressor is damaged, replacement will also require freon loading after motor replacement. It depends on where you are, there are places where the labor cost is so expensive that these appliances are not worth repaining anymore.

Posted on Jun 04, 2007

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SOURCE: refrigerator Compressor hot to touch & fridge/freezer not cooling

you need to do an amp draw with your meter,clamp the run wire on the compressor,you should get 2-5 amp reading,any higher means the compressor is going bad,also should be a locked rotor amp(LRA) reading on comp.-mike

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

erpaalai
  • 999 Answers

SOURCE: Mini Fridge not working MCBR445

Compressor is in a locked up/ no start condition. the overload cools enough to reset and tries to start it again and kicks out on amp draw, then the whole cycle starts over again.
Eric

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

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1 Answer

Compressor is HOT, coil is not warm


Check to see if the fan is running down in the back by the compressor, if it isn't put a small fan back there blowing on the compressor, also make sure the compressor is running you can unplug it and block the fan by the compressor wait a few minutes and plug it back in so you can hear the compressor to see if it is running. if it hums and then clicks you probably have a bad relay and overload assy.

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Admiral HMG61139 21.1 cu ft Side-by side refrigerator, not cooling. clicking sound every few minutes. (sounds similar to oven thermostat or relay coming on).


Hello,

Thier is one of a couple things going on with your refrig.

The start relay on the compressor is bad so what your hearing is the overload thermostat tripping on and off and keeps trying to start the compressor

The fan motor by the compressor called the condenser fan motor is not running to cool the compressor so once and what you overload keep trying to start the compressor but its too hot to start

Finally the compressor is locked up and the overload still keeps trying to start it but its totally seazed and ain't going to run

I hope this helps you to determine what is wrong with your refrigerator,
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1 Answer

Suddenly it stopped working. I checked at the back side of refrigerator but there is only a little bit sound like any pin dropped is coming after a couple of minutes.


Hi the noise your hearing sounds like the overload kicking in and out, this usually indicated a bad start relay on the compressor, or the compressor itself is bad, I would start with the relay , if its the compressor probably not worth fixing.



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could well need re-gassing or it could be a blockage in ur compressor. If it comes on and you get a buzzz...click this is normally the problem.

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1 Answer

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This is such a vague problem you are describing. Could be a number of things. However, I can give you some advice to help determine if its the compressor or not. Typically when compressors are not running, even though they are suppose to be, you can hear a "click" sound come from bottom back area of fridge. This "click" sound may be preceeded by a few second long hum or buzz, or it may just be a click every couple of minutes. If you hear that then you know the compressor is trying to run, but isnt. Also, make sure that when you open the freezer door you can hear the evaporator fan running. If that fan is not running, but the compressor is, then you have bad evap fan.

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We bought this kenmore fridge in 2002, and it buzzes for about 15 seconds, then quits for about a minute.I'm sure its the compressor, but why all of a sudden, and is there any inexpensive fix?


The buzz your hearing is the compressor NOT starting. You should hear a click after about 45 seconds and then silence. The click is the KLIXON thermal overload doing it's job of hopefully protecting the compressor windings.

There are a couple of things that can be causing your problem.

1. The PTC relay / KLIXON assy is no longer working normally (sometimes caused by a loose / hot contact)

2. The run Capacitor has failed

3. The bad news... the compressor rotor is locked and will not turn.

The relay and capacitor are a moderatly priced fix even if you have in home service.

If the compressor is locked and has to be replaced then your looking at a repair bill well upwards of $300.00 with the compressor, pre-oil for the system, labor and Freon / coolant.

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1 Answer

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Simple Fix. That's cost around $40. You need to replace your relay/overload. Its mounted on the compressor. It should have a black box over it. Take it off then pull the part off the compressor and replace it with a new one.

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Compressor is in a locked up/ no start condition. the overload cools enough to reset and tries to start it again and kicks out on amp draw, then the whole cycle starts over again.
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Any frost on back wall of freezer section. If so you have a defrost system problem. If you can hear a hum followed by a click the problem is with the compressor. In back of the refrigerator is a removable panel. remove it and carefully check if the compressor is hot. A cold compressor indicates no power to the compressor which would be related to the temperature control or defrost timer.
Defrost timers are normally located in the area of the temperature controls. Locate the timer and rotate the clutch head screw clockwise slowly until it makes one click. If the timer is the cause of no power to the compressor the compressor will restart. If the problem is defrost related this same action will start the defrost which should take place in 18-22 minutes. If defrost of the freezer coil takes place and the compressor does not restart after the time indicated (wait 30 minutes) rotate the screw slowly one more click and the compressor should restart. If you had to rotate the screw the second time the problem is your defrost timer.

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